Plants That Have Decorative Fruit – An Important Consideration in Garden Design

While certain trees and shrubs are often planted in gardens because of the edible fruit they supply, the additional visual impact of many fruiting plants should be considered in terms of the overall garden design. Fruit hanging on trees and bushes will in itself provide color, sometimes at a time when color in the garden is lacking, such as is the case with lemon trees in Mediterranean climates, at the beginning of winter. Many woody plants of course have inedible fruit, but highly interesting ones nonetheless, not only in terms of color, but also with regard to decorative shapes and forms. Here are some lesser known examples of fruit trees shrubs and bushes, which thanks to their decorative fruit, add so much to the garden. Let's start with some trees.

* Acmena smithii produces spectacularly beautiful lavender berries in the fall, which last through much of the winter. The berries are apparently edible as well. Acmena could be highly susceptible to aphids in your area, as it is in mine. (central Israel)

* Hawthorns are usually grown as thorny barriers in Europe and elsewhere. However the small tree, Crataegus monogyna, is adorned with red berries during the winter. The fruits, resemble tiny apples, unsurprisingly, as the hawthorn belongs to the same botanical family as the apple. Unlike many fruiting species of the family Rosaceae, the hawthorn is relatively hardy to pests and disease. Its fruit are edible, and in my opinion tasty, although not everyone would agree with me on that one! Unfortunately, Crataegus monogyna is an under used ornamental tree in dry climate gardens.

* Koelreuteria bipinnata is not only a fine landscaping tree for the small garden, its inedible fruits are highly decorative. It is also known also as the Chinese Lantern Tree, from the pinkish, semi transparent fruit that do indeed resemble lanterns, Chinese or otherwise.

*Another example amongst many worth taking into account is the Strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo.

There are very many shrubs and bushes that in addition to their landscaping characteristics, grow fruit as well. Some, like the Natal plum, Carissa macrocarpa have edible fruits, although most people seem to be unaware of this extra property. The dark pink fruit are excellent in salads, and provide some nice color too. Belonging to the same botanical family as the much feared Nerium oleander, its foliage is indeed poisonous, yet the fruit, at least after ripening, is perfectly safe to eat.

Some shrubs of course are chosen in planting designs, especially for the spectacular color of their fruit. Examples of such plants with inedible fruit would be Firethorn, Pyracantha coccinea, a mainstay of European gardens, although not well suited to frost free areas. Varieties belonging to the related genus Cotoneaster, actually fruit better in dry locations, and so are particularly relevant to Mediterranean gardens. Myrtles also have decorative berries, which are lost if the plant is over trimmed as a sheared hedge. Finally, don't forget Nandina domestica, a truly lovely sculptural bush. Its white flowers are not particularly attractive, but don't be in too much of a hurry to remove them as you will miss out on the small red berries that adorn the plant to such great effect.

Plants That Have Decorative Fruit – An Important Consideration in Garden Design

While certain trees and shrubs are often planted in gardens because of the edible fruit they supply, the additional visual impact of many fruiting plants should be considered in terms of the overall garden design. Fruit hanging on trees and bushes will in itself provide color, sometimes at a time when color in the garden is lacking, such as is the case with lemon trees in Mediterranean climates, at the beginning of winter. Many woody plants of course have inedible fruit, but highly interesting ones nonetheless, not only in terms of color, but also with regard to decorative shapes and forms. Here are some lesser known examples of fruit trees, shrubs and bushes, which thanks to their decorative fruit, add so much to the garden. Let's start with some trees.

* Acmena smithii produces spectacularly beautiful lavender berries in the fall, which last through much of the winter. The berries are apparently edible as well. Acmena could be highly susceptible to aphids in your area, as it is in mine. (central Israel)

* Hawthorns are usually grown as thorny barriers in Europe and elsewhere. However the small tree, Crataegus monogyna, is adorned with red berries during the winter. The fruits, resemble tiny apples, unsurprisingly, as the hawthorn belongs to the same botanical family as the apple. Unlike many fruiting species of the family Rosaceae, the hawthorn is relatively hardy to pests and disease. Its fruit are edible, and in my opinion tasty, although not everyone would agree with me on that one! Unfortunately, Crataegus monogyna is an under used ornamental tree in dry climate gardens.

* Koelreuteria bipinnata is not only a fine landscaping tree for the small garden, its inedible fruits are highly decorative. It is also known also as the Chinese Lantern Tree, from the pinkish, semi transparent fruit that do indeed resemble lanterns, Chinese or otherwise.

*Another example amongst many worth taking into account is the Strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo.

There are very many shrubs and bushes that in addition to their landscaping characteristics, grow fruit as well. Some, like the Natal plum, Carissa macrocarpa have edible fruits, although most people seem to be unaware of this extra property. The dark pink fruit are excellent in salads, and provide some nice color too. Belonging to the same botanical family as the much feared Nerium oleander, its foliage is indeed poisonous, yet the fruit, at least after ripening, is perfectly safe to eat.

Some shrubs of course are chosen in planting designs, especially for the spectacular color of their fruit. Examples of such plants with inedible fruit would be Firethorn, Pyracantha coccinea, a mainstay of European gardens, although not well suited to frost free areas. Varieties belonging to the related genus Cotoneaster, actually fruit better in dry locations, and so are particularly relevant to Mediterranean gardens. Myrtles also have decorative berries, which are lost if the plant is over trimmed as a sheared hedge. Finally, don't forget Nandina domestica, a truly lovely sculptural bush. Its white flowers are not particularly attractive, but don't be in too much of a hurry to remove them as you will miss out on the small red berries that adorn the plant to such great effect.

Pruning In The Autumn – What You Should And Should Not Do

At the time of writing, the end of October, the shade temperature is still about 28 centigrade. I could be forgiven for thinking that winter is ages away, but in gardening terms, this could be a costly mistake, despite living in a relatively mild winter climate. I live, work and garden in central Israel. In some areas the winter lows reach about -2 c. in others, frosts are very rare. If like me, you live in a dry Mediterranean climate, typified by mild wet winters, then it would be prudent to be aware of the effects that pruning at this time of year can have on the garden plants, and particularly on the most precious object in the garden – the tree.

Before going into that though, let's discuss briefly some reasons for pruning in or around the autumn. The fall is actually a mini growth season in Mediterranean climates. With the drop in temperatures, rise in humidity, and shorter days, plants tend to enjoy a brief period of resurgent growth after the torrid heat of the summer. It can be worthwhile taking advantage of this, to encourage compact growth in landscape bushes, which can be effected by light pruning and clipping. The same is true of many herbaceous flowering perennials, whose flowers have withered, and look somewhat lank and "leggy". Some ornamental grasses tend to look extremely poor as winter approaches, while pruning them down, encourages new growth before the low temperatures curtail further growth until the spring.

There is no problem in pruning cold hardy plants in the winter, but cold sensitive species are liable to be damaged, sometimes fatally so, by being cut during the cold season, or in proximity to it. To be safe, cold sensitive plants should not be touched from about six to eight weeks before the possibility of frost or chilly temperatures. The reason is that wounds to non-hardy plants caused by pruning cuts, are highly likely to be the source of bacterial or fungal infection, and to increase the plants' susceptibility to the cold. So if your still basking in the glow of the autumn sun – BEWARE!

When it comes to naturally deciduous plants, which are generally cold hardy in any case, light pruning is fine, although the heavy seasonal tree pruning, or the pruning of rose bushes and Crape Myrtles, should be carried out during the dormant season. In mild winter climates, it's important to delay this type of pruning until the later half of the dormant season, and not in the middle of the winter as in continental Europe or North America. This will be the subject of a future article.

So how are you to know which plants are liable to be cold sensitive, and which ones are hardy? Obviously it helps to know the precise botanical names of your garden plants, and to check up their hardiness in literature or on the net. Here are some general guidelines though which you may find useful.

* Evergreens, excluding coniferous plants, vary in their sensitivity, but are never hardy to temperatures below say -6 or -7c.Examples like Olive trees, Carob and various species of Lantana come to mind. When in doubt, assume that an evergreen specimen is sensitive and do not prune until every possibility of frost has passed in the following spring.

* Plants that drop their leaves in the winter, may not be naturally deciduous, but may in fact be of tropical or sub-tropical origin, and the leaf drop occurs in reaction to the relative cold to which the plant is exposed to during the winter. Here lies a potentially nasty trap, because species in this category, like Duranta or Lantana for instance, can be highly marginal for your area in the best of circumstances. These types must never be touched until the spring. On the other hand, and this where things can get a bit complicated, the worst time to heavily prune the real deciduous plants is during the spring, as the sap rises through the wood after the winter dormancy has elapsed. So before rushing in to prune bare leaved trees and shrubs, find out exactly what you are pruning!

The Pomegranate – A Must Tree For a Dry Climate, Mediterranean Garden

One of the best choices for a landscaping tree, particularly in a hot, dry and Mediterranean climate, is the Pomegranate. (Punica granatum) Being a small tree, or large bush, it reaches to about 4 or 5 meters in height, it is especially suited to a small garden, a backyard or a patio. The benefits of growing a pomegranate are as diverse as they are numerous, but they can be placed in two broad categories – aesthetic and nutritional.

Design wise, the tree has an arching, vase–like habit. Due to the small diameter of its trunk, it is best grown as a multi stemmed tree. As a naturally deciduous plant, the Pomegranate provides exciting fall color, other than in the mildest of winter climates. The new, juvenile leaves in the spring are in my view, one of the finest and much overlooked sights in the garden calendar, and the flowers are as beautiful as the fruit is decorative. It literally "performs" all the year round. Furthermore, it can be combined with other species of similar habit and growth, such as the wonderful Crape Myrtle. (Lagestromia indica) The latter's summer flowers prolong as it were, the flowering season of the Pomegranate, while the Pomegranate's fruit take over, in the decorative sense, from the Lagestromia flowers towards the end of the summer.

Nutritionally, the Pomegranate fruit is amongst the healthiest foods available, being rich in minerals and vitamins and high in fiber. Other than being eaten straight, pomegranate juice is both delicious and nutritious. The fruit is also made into jams and jellies, and distilled into a liqueur. There are in fact innumerable uses to which it is put.

Growing a Pomegranate tree is not difficult, but not maintenance-free either. It is worth thinning out excess stems, by pruning a few of them to the ground towards the end of the winter. Branches should not be shortened, because this detracts from the natural growth habit of the tree. Sometimes though, abundant quantities of fruit on a single branch, can prove to be too heavy, and cause the branch to bend and snap. It's sometimes necessary therefore to cut away a certain number of fruits, before they ripen. The tree is fairly hardy to pests and disease, though mild aphid attacks due occur from to time to time. These can easily be dealt with without resorting to pesticides, by the simple expedient of washing down the affected foliage with a heavy jet of water. The fruit itself, is somewhat vulnerable to the attentions of fruit flies, but these can be handled by wrapping the young, unripe fruit in paper bags. The bags should not be removed until the fruit are ready to harvest. Alternatively, yellow colored sticky pads, can be hung on the tree's branches as an insect trap.

Herbaceous Flowers – A Practical Approach For The Small Garden Bed

Most private garden owners want to have a flower bed worthy of the name. Yet after a number of unsuccessful attempts, and possibly after witnessing poor results attained by friends and neighbors, they give up on the idea, and either they let the lawn take over, or at worst, the spot turns into an eyesore. It becomes a constant, frustrating reminder of failure and valuable time and good money wasted. I think the root of the problem can be traced to planting too many plants that after flowering briefly, either need to be removed and replaced, or simply look poor for long periods of time.

My suggestion is to take up at least 30% of the bed's area with non-flowering herbaceous plants, and with flowering species that look good after the flowers have died and been removed. This means that when annuals have to be replaced, or perennials cut down, the border still looks reasonably presentable, until the next burst of flowers appear. Shrubs and bushes should not be planted in the small flower bed. They simply take over and make maintenance problematical. The mixed border, as the British term it, that is the planting of woody, shrub material together with the herbaceous plants, may be suitable for large beds, but not for small ones. Here are some excellent non-flowering plants which I use to good effect in central Israel, where I live and work. The climate is typically Mediterranean, so while the species I mention may or may not be appropriate to your situation, I hope they serve as an example of what can be done in a dry climate garden.

Joyweed (Alternanthera) Includes lush green varieties and deep purple ones. Some have delicate leaves, others larger ones. Joyweed is suitable for frost free areas only, and is best planted in the spring until the end of the summer.

Different cultivars of Asparagus densiflorus are also lush green in color, with interesting form and leaf texture. They can sometimes be mixed with dwarf shrubs as well.

Ornamental grasses or grass like plants are usually a good choice for "holding" the border throughout the year. Large grasses like the fabulous Pennisetum setaceum "Rubra" may be too large for a small bed, and they need to be cut down periodically anyway. Instead, consider small, delicate plants like Festuca glauca or the various types of Liriope and Ophiopogon. Beware though when choosing grasses of any size, that they are not of the kind that are liable to spread and become a weed in the border and the garden as a whole. Silver leaved herbaceous plants are also extremely useful and manageable in the bed. There are low plants like Lavender cotton, (Santolina chamaecyparissus) and Dichondra argentea and the taller ones like Dusty Miller. (Senecio cineraria)

Furthermore, one can choose from a number of herbaceous flowering perennials that look good throughout the year. This does not mean that they are maintenance free, but some clipping and pruning notwithstanding, they are definitely manageable and contribute handsomely to the quality of the small garden bed. In this category one can include, the mainstay Agapanthus, the shrubby species of Chrysanthemum like C. frutescens or C.pacificum, perennial carnations like Dianthus sp. "Fire Witch" and of course many species and varieties of sage.

Autumn Leaves Are On The Ground – Deciduous Plants in The Garden

It's quite common to hear remarks from people complaining about fallen leaves littering the backyard or front porch. This leads some to object to planting deciduous trees and shrubs at all in their garden. I'm often told by customers to plant species that are "green all the year round, and that do not make a mess". The idea though, that woody plants can be divided into two groups; evergreens which do not litter, and non-evergreens that do, is false. Actually, some of the messiest plants available for the Mediterranean garden, are evergreens like Bougainvillea and Ficus benjamina, because the litter occurs all the year round, while deciduous trees drop their leaves in one brief period, fall. Litter however from falling flowers and fruit is common to all types of trees and shrubs, whether evergreen or deciduous.

At this point it would be worth distinguishing between naturally deciduous plants and conditionally deciduous ones. The former, having evolved in cold winter climates, are genetically programmed to drop their leaves. The latter are often of tropical and sub tropical origin, and drop their leaves in response to the cooler winters prevailing in Mediterranean climates. Many ornamental trees and shrubs fall into this category like Jacaranda mimosifolia, whose sticky flowers make a dreadful mess on cars and paths as they fall to the ground.

Getting unnecessarily hung up about the leaf litter from naturally deciduous trees, can cause you to miss out on the breathtaking effects of colorful autumn leaves. People of course from cold climates need no introduction to this subject, but many from mild winter climes are often unaware of the significance of fall color. In frost free areas, fall color intensity is almost entirely lacking, but in places where even mild frosts occur, then there are a number of species that do provide lovely hues of orange and gold. Examples that come to mind are Lagestromia indica, Pistacia atlantica, and some deciduous oak and ash species. I particularly recommend a small tree called Sapium sebiferum, because it is usually very colorful even in areas where the minimum temperature does not fall below -2 centigrade. In order to avoid disappointment, ask at your local professional nursery for those varieties of a particular species that do perform well in this respect. Furthermore, many trees have their own special type of beauty and fascination when bare of leaves. That no doubt is why so many artists have bothered to draw them over the centuries!

In addition to leaf color in the fall, the juvenile leaves in the spring are often a very attractive, and much over looked characteristic of deciduous trees and shrubs. Next spring, make a point of looking out for this. One of the reasons that I usually try and include pomegranate bushes for instance (Punica granatum) in my compositions is precisely because of the bright, fresh green hue that covers the plant in the first few weeks after it has comeback into leaf following winter dormancy. These seasonal changes provide a dynamic element to the garden. A garden consisting entirely of evergreens, is essentially static in nature. Of course over planting with deciduous plants is liable to make the garden look rather empty in the winter, and so it's important to recognize the stability provided by evergreen plants, and of course shrubs used for screening and privacy, must be, well, "green all the year round".

Laying Grass in the Autumn in a Dry, Mediterranean Climate

The grass types grown for lawns in hot dry climates, are generally perennial species and varieties, suitable unsurprisingly, for hot dry summers. These species such as Bermuda, Zoysia or St Augustine grass, are often dormant during the winter, and if laid as turf too close to the onset of winter, will fail to root in time.

This is fairly well known, yet nonetheless, I'm often anxiously urged by customers setting up a garden in autumn to put down an "instant" lawn because they've heard that even if the turf has yet to establish roots, it should get through the winter, and then start to develop roots when the weather warms up in the spring. There is unfortunately enough truth in this opinion for it to carry weight and persuade people that there's no need to wait and to look at bare soil and mud through the winter. Actually there are excellent reasons for not laying turf at this time of year, while there is way of overcoming the bare earth issue as well. Firstly as to why I think turfing is a thoroughly bad idea, when winter is about a month away.

* As the grass has yet to root, it should not be walked on let alone used as a functioning lawn for playing, sitting and entertaining. This means that it just "sits" uselessly.

* Many perennial warm climate species lose their color under normal circumstances when the temperatures drop. Some like the Zoysia and Bermuda varieties often look like straw even in frost-free areas. So turf sod which is not even attached to the soil has absolutely no aesthetic value.

* Masses of winter weed seeds will germinate and grow in the "lawn" because the grass is too week to inhibit them. While weeds will inevitably grow in an established lawn as well, these can easily be controlled by the occasional mowing. Not so of course in the case of disconnected turf, and by springtime, the area is liable to be smothered in weeds, which in turn further retard the development of the new grass. Turf laid in the autumn is liable therefore to struggle far more than one laid the following spring.

* In warm, dry spells, common to Mediterranean winters, the rootless grass has to be irrigated, a criminal waste of water, when the sprinklers should be turned off completely for the duration of the winter.

So if you are planting a new garden in the fall, does it mean that the area designated for a lawn has to be bare and horrible for some four or five months? Happily the answer is NO! My suggestion is to make a temporary winter lawn by sowing seeds of a cool season annual grass. The seeds should germinate within a couple of weeks, and the area can be green and grassy after about a month. The winter grass can then be easily removed when it's time to lay the permanent perennial sod.

Laying Grass in the Autumn in a Dry, Mediterranean Climate

The grass types grown for lawns in hot dry climates, are generally perennial species and varieties, suitable unsurprisingly, for hot dry summers. These species such as Bermuda, Zoysia or St Augustine grass, are often dormant during the winter, and if laid as turf too close to the onset of winter, will fail to root in time.

This is fairly well known, yet nonetheless, I'm often anxiously urged by customers setting up a garden in autumn to put down an "instant" lawn because they've heard that even if the turf has yet to establish roots, it should get through the winter, and then start to develop roots when the weather warms up in the spring. There is unfortunately enough truth in this opinion for it to carry weight and persuade people that there's no need to wait and to look at bare soil and mud through the winter. Actually there are excellent reasons for not laying turf at this time of year, while there is way of overcoming the bare earth issue as well. Firstly as to why I think turfing is a thoroughly bad idea, when winter is about a month away.

* As the grass has yet to root, it should not be walked on let alone used as a functioning lawn for playing, sitting and entertaining. This means that it just "sits" uselessly.

* Many perennial warm climate species lose their color under normal circumstances when the temperatures drop. Some like the Zoysia and Bermuda varieties often look like straw even in frost-free areas. So turf sod which is not even attached to the soil has absolutely no aesthetic value.

* Masses of winter weed seeds will germinate and grow in the "lawn" because the grass is too week to inhibit them. While weeds will inevitably grow in an established lawn as well, these can easily be controlled by the occasional mowing. Not so of course in the case of disconnected turf, and by springtime, the area is liable to be smothered in weeds, which in turn further retard the development of the new grass. Turf laid in the autumn is liable therefore to struggle far more than one laid the following spring.

* In warm, dry spells, common to Mediterranean winters, the rootless grass has to be irrigated, a criminal waste of water, when the sprinklers should be turned off completely for the duration of the winter.

So if you are planting a new garden in the fall, does it mean that the area designated for a lawn has to be bare and horrible for some four or five months? Happily the answer is NO! My suggestion is to make a temporary winter lawn by sowing seeds of a cool season annual grass. The seeds should germinate within a couple of weeks, and the area can be green and grassy after about a month. The winter grass can then be easily removed when it's time to lay the permanent perennial sod.

Invasive Weeds – What to do when Lawn Grasses Encroach on your Flower Bed.

An unpleasant situation that can arise in gardens is when the lawn grass starts to spread out and invade the neighboring planting beds. This issue is particularly pertinent to hot, dry climates, because usually, heat hardy perennial varieties such as Bermuda, Kikuya or Zosia are grown. These, unlike grasses grown from seed, spread aggressively by way of their under ground shoots known as rhizomes. Due to the massive network of roots, rhizomes and stolons (shoots that spread above the ground) removing the invading grass by hand, whether with a tool or not, is virtually impossible. You can spend all day digging out the offending grasses, only for them to return after a number of days.

This is when unwanted plants, or weeds, become unmanageable. No one can expect the garden beds to be absolutely free of weeds, but on the other hand, the wise gardener will be looking to avoid weed infestations that get out of hand. With regard to the lawn growing where it should not, it's crucial to keep the edge as well cut and defined as possible. This requires some attention on a regular, preferably weekly basis. At the first signs of spreading, simply pull or cut out the grass. This will not of course kill the intruders but prevents, more or less, the lawn establishing itself amongst the bedding plants.

It is mistaken to believe that edging materials limit the subterranean growth of the afore-mentioned lawn types. Bearing this in mind, it may be worth considering, choosing a perennial turf species that spreads by stolons (above ground) as opposed to rhizomes (below ground) Examples of such grasses are Buffalo, (Buchloe dactyloides) and St Augustine grass (Stenotaphrum secundatum) Needless to say the latter types have to be suitable to the growing conditions prevailing, but that being said, they are far less damaging to flower and ornamental beds because they are so much easier to eliminate manually.

So what can be done if you do find yourself confronted with a planting bed being overrun by the encroaching lawn. Assuming that constantly hand weeding the bed is not a realistic option, you may consider spraying the grasses with a selective herbicide that kills grass weeds without damaging the broad leaved plants. The trouble with this option is that applying the herbicides at the recommended low concentration retards the growth of the perennial grasses, but does not eliminate them. From my experience, the spraying is effective for a few months only. Now it's one thing using poisons occasionally, very occasionally, but it's quite another to be applying them as part of a regular routine. I think that route should be avoided at all costs. In fact I prefer in these cases, to kill all the small plants in the bed, ornamentals together with the weeds, by use of a systemic weed killer like "Roundup" (Glyphosate) applied at a strong enough concentration, and then replant the bed. An alternative, less drastic albeit more tedious method is to paint the grass weeds with Glyphosate, taking care to avoid the solution dripping on the bedding plants.

About the author - Jonathan Ya'akobi.
I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984.
I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners.
I also teach horticulture to students on training courses.
I'd love to share my knowledge and experience with you.
So you're welcome to visit me on www.dryclimategardening.com

Ornamental Bushes For Fall Color In Your Dry Climate Garden

As autumn is now well under way in the northern hemisphere, it would be opportune to discuss the question of color in the garden at this season, for in warm Mediterranean climates, this is a time of year generally lacking in color. In colder climates of course, fall leaf color can provide immense interest, and the lower the temperatures, the more spectacular the effects can be. However in mild winter areas, typical of many Mediterranean type climates, fall leaf color is at best of marginal significance.

This is also an in between season as far as annual bedding plants are concerned. The summer annuals are all but finished, while the winter annuals are barely ready for planting let alone flowering. The winter/spring bulbs, such as daffodils and tulips will not emerge out of the ground for a few months, although some perennials like Verbena and Solidago are still performing to some degree.

This seasonal drabness can be offset to a considerable degree by the fall flowers of a number of landscape shrubs. It could be worthwhile therefore when choosing shrubs and bushes to fulfill certain landscape functions like screening or providing a background, to take into account the flowering months of the various species to be planted, although flower color should not be the sole or even the main factor behind choosing this or that shrub.

So here are some combinations that work well where I garden – central Israel – but they could be applicable to other places like southern California with similar climates.
Varieties belonging to the species Tecoma stans, (Stenolobium stans) have lovely tubular flowers, ranging in color between yellow and orange. Different cultivars can be combined to create a little variety on a theme, while another species of Tecoma, T. capensis (Tecomaria capensis) can also be added. The gorgeous tree Jacaranda mimosifolia (J. acutifolia) continues to flower with lavender blossoms, and belonging to the same botanical family, Bignoniaceae, the flower shape, is very similar to the Tecoma shrubs. In previous articles I've emphasized the design advantage of combining different but related plants, which is that two principles of good design, unity and diversity, are taken care of simultaneously.

Finally, shrubs that flower over a long period, including the autumn, can be included in the plant composition. Hibiscus sinensis has so many cultivars to its name, with flower colors ranging from white, peach and red. Other "staples" that provide flower color in the autumn include Plumbago, Alyogyne, and the delicate Abelia Grandiflora.
So if you can't rely on autumn leaves to give interest and color in the fall, remember there are quite a number of shrubs, bushes and trees that do just that.

About the author - Jonathan Ya'akobi
I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984.
I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners.
I also teach horticulture to students on training courses.
I'd love to share my knowledge and experience with you.
So you're welcome to visit me on www.dryclimategardening.com

The Herb Garden – How To have Your Herb And Eat It!

Generally speaking, the initial and primary motive of most people for planting a herb garden, or at least setting aside a small area in their garden for growing herbs, is the satisfaction of having fresh produce available for the kitchen. There are however two other major benefits which are often overlooked. One concerns design and aesthetics, while the other has implications for pest control. Due to these "hidden" bonuses, I usually manage to persuade my customers to include a section for herbs and spices, even if they were not initially intending to do so.

Herbs are in fact worth growing because they are for the most part, attractive ornamental plants. The overwhelming majority are of Mediterranean origin, belonging to the sage family or Labiatae. As a result of their botanical proximity, they have many anatomical and morphological features in common. Why is this significant? The answer lies in the fairly obvious fact that plants that look alike in some of their features, while differing in others, tend to look good in each others company. To be technical, one can say that they answer simultaneously to two principles of good design – namely unity on the one hand, and diversity on the other. In plain English, one could say that they "go well together".

Absolutely stunning compositions can be derived from combining such plants as Aloysia (Lippia citriodora) Sages (Salvia) and Fennel (Foeniculum) for some height, together with a whole range of cushion like plants such as Melissa, Parsley, (Petrosilinum crispum) and some varieties of Basil.(Ocimum basilicum) Meanwhile prostrate varieties of Rosmary and ground hugging thyme species (Thymus serpyllum) cover the soil. Many grey leaved plants can be included such as Artemisia arborescens, and certain sage species like Salvia officianalis. These contrast beautifully with purple leaved varieties of Basil such as "Dark Opel". Many of these plants, particularly the sages, have pretty flowers as well, but their foliage and handsome form mean they look good almost all the year round. It should be noted however, that in order to maintain a compact and tidy growth habit, herb plants need frequent clipping and pinching back. The pruned material can of course find its way to the chopping board!

As mentioned, many herbs contain properties that repel pests and disease and thereby actually help protect other plants from attack. In the spring for instance, Artemisia tends to attract aphids to its buds. The aphids are easily dealt with by lightly pruning the Artemisia, while many neighbouring plants are spared the attention of these particular pests. Species of Achillea repulse many fungi, while Lavender can keep moths and aphids at bay.

If all this wasn't enough, most herbs can be grown on a fairly modest watering regime. Although requiring regular moisture through the hot dry months, they can be grown with about half the amount of water needed for flowers. As a youngster I was often told that "you cannot have your cake and eat it". As, a gardener, I've learned that you can grow a certain group of plants that provide excellent raw material for cooking, if used thoughtfully can really enhance the beauty of the garden, help to keep down pests and diseases, and consume much less water than the usual bedding plants.

About the author - Jonathan Ya'akobi
I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984.
I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners.
I also teach horticulture to students on training courses.
I'd love to share my knowledge and experience with you.
So you're welcome to visit me on www.dryclimategardening.com

Small Shrubs and Bushes – Their Importance in a Garden Design

The design question that will almost inevitably arise in most garden situations is that which relates to the space between the hedge or shrubs and trees that border a garden, and the ground plain which takes up the majority of the area. This ground plain usually comprises of a lawn, but an alternative material like a wooden deck is often the desired option particularly in dry climates. Whether a lawn, deck or some other material is chosen, the same question remains – what is to be done in the foreground between it and the hedge or shrubbery? This is where low or dwarf shrubs and bushes come in.

Low shrubs can be classified as woody plants that cover the ground up to a height of about 50cm or so. Their primary function visually, is to fill up the space at this low but not necessarily prostrate height. In this way they cover and hopefully beautify the space between the ground and the point where the larger shrubs or hedging plants start to grow. They should be considered before other design options such as herbaceous and flowering perennials for a number of reasons.

Dwarf bushes provide a low maintenance solution. While herbaceous plants, whether annual or perennial, require constant attention, such as very frequent clipping and pruning, small shrubs generally need only be pruned once or twice a year if at all.

In this way, they serve as a stable element in the garden. Flower beds by their very nature are constantly changing, with plants being cut down, divided and re-planted, or replaced altogether. There is a place for this of course in the garden, and indeed large areas taken up by low maintenance dwarf bushes actually free up valuable time for the proper attention that herbaceous beds require.

Many dwarf shrubs are modest in their water requirements and some can even be defined as water conserving plants. This means that in a typically Mediterranean climate, with an annual rain fall of say 450mm, they can be grown by consuming about 200-300mm of irrigation water per year, i.e. 200-300 liters per square meter. By way of comparison, a perennial bed will need at least 500mm per year, while annuals often gulp up over 1,000 mm, or 1 cubic meter per square meter per year.

By reducing the amount of flowers and concentrating them in smaller, well defined groups in the garden, the opportunity arises of designing flower beds that function as focal points and not just as smatterings of colour in the garden. The creation of focal points should be one of the compositional aims of the design.

So if you're being overwhelmed by the amount of work needed to maintain your flower beds, or herbaceous borders, then you may wish to consider redesigning some of them by replacing the herbaceous material with low, shrubs and bushes. Here are some examples that I recommend from over 20 years experience gardening in Israel.
Pittosporum tobira "Wheelers Dwarf"
Coprosma repens – There are a number of different varieties including dark-leaved plants and those with variegated foliage.
Melaleuca sp."Green Dome"
Ficus sp."Green Island"
Asparagus densiflorus "Sprengeri" group
Juniperus sp. – Low growing varieties

In addition, a number of shrubs which grow vertically, such as Nandina domestica, or Junipers like the upright variety "Kaizuka", can be judiciously placed for accent and emphasis.


About the author - Jonathan Ya'akobi
I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984.
I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners.
I also teach horticulture to students on training courses.
I'd love to share my knowledge and experience with you.
So you're welcome to visit me on www.dryclimategardening.com

Choosing Shrubs in a Garden Design – The Importance of Leaf Texture

When it comes to deciding which shrub varieties to plant in the garden, the task can seem almost overwhelming, especially for the home amateur gardener. The reason for this no doubt stems from the colossal choice available in many countries, though of course not in all. In this article, I'm going to try and simplify matters by focusing on some of the principles of good design, and then applying them to the question of shrubs and bushes. We'll start by determining the one thing you should not do.

* Avoid picking a plant just because you like it! This may sound counter intuitive at first, but think of cooking a meal. Would you include a certain ingredient, simply on the strength of being partial to it? I would imagine not. That is why I dislike the habit of walking around a garden center with a trolley, picking and choosing plants as though in a supermarket. Personal preference is entirely legitimate of course, but it must never form the basis of the decision. The primary question to ask is "does this species fit into the general scheme?" Think of getting dressed for a Saturday night party. The question you are going to as yourself is "does this tie go with the shirt?" or "this blouse is amazing, but what will it look like with new skirt I've just bought?"

* Ignore at first the question of the flower colour of a particular specimen. Go back to it after you've determined other criteria first. In the same vein, don't get carried away at this stage by all the coloured leaved plants, especially the purple shrubs. The latter should be used as contrast or emphasis plants, and therefore like highly spiced ingredients in a meal, as sparingly as possible.

* Obviously at an early stage in the decision making process (for that is what it is) the basic suitability of the plant as a whole, will have been considered in terms of size, and adaptability to the climate e.t.c.

* This is when the importance of leaf texture comes in, for understanding its significance is the key to being able to make intelligent choices, design wise at least. Leaf texture, whether it applies to trees, shrubs or flowers, can be described as course, medium, or fine, with a multitude of interim states. The main factors determining leaf texture are the size and shape of the leaves. An Oak leaf or an Ash leaf may be described as having a medium texture, whereas a banana plant would be termed course leaved. A dominant texture should be decided on, and the species then chosen accordingly. Avoid placing very course textured plants next to fine textured ones. Do feathery ornamental grasses for instance go with massive leaved plants (course texture) such as Philodendron?

*An understanding of the role of texture also helps in arriving at the correct relationship between the exceptional plants, such as those with coloured foliage, and the majority of the plants forming the composition. An emphasis plant differs by its very nature from the rest either in its characteristics such as size, form or colour. However, it should never differ in every one. It should have at least one characteristic in common with the other plants, and choosing an emphasis plant with the same texture as the others is an excellent way of doing so.


About the author - Jonathan Ya'akobi
I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984.
I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners.
I also teach horticulture to students on training courses.
I'd love to share my knowledge and experience with you.
So you're welcome to visit me on www.dryclimategardening.com

Preventing Garden Weeds – A Guide For The Autumn in Mediterranean Climates

Autumn has arrived in the northern Hemisphere, and with winter approaching, there are two weed issues that should be faced. One is how to prepare the garden so that the weeds are controlled to manageable proportions, and the other is how to deal with noxious perennial weeds right now. I will discuss the perennials later in the article.

The main problem with winter weeds in a Mediterranean type climate, is the high rate of germination and therefore the capacity of the weeds to really smother whole areas. This, can actually be advantageous in large scale situations, but not so in small garden beds. Of course the weeds can always be picked out periodically during the winter, but prevention is usually better than cure as the saying goes. The question is how and by which method?

The best way is to spread a natural, organic mulch over the bare soil to a depth of about 10 cm. Aesthetically speaking, the most appropriate material are wood chippings, although functionally at least, straw and even weeds can be used. Organic mulches are to be preferred to inorganic ones like pebbles or small rocks, because they not only inhibit germination more effectively, but they also improve the soil and general conditions in which the plants grow. Mulches are ineffective though in preventing perennials such as invasive lawn grasses. These have to be treated after they have emerged.

Another method of retarding winter weeds is one often suggested, but which is in my view highly undesirable in a small garden – namely the use of pre-emergent herbicides. These are weed killers that kill the weed seedlings shortly after germination. The crucial point to remember is that these are residual herbicides, effectively poisoning the top layer of the soil for a period of time ranging from two to six months. Furthermore, their application requires considerable knowledge and experience by the user, in order to be both effective on the one hand, but without causing damage to the soil and to neighbouring plants on the other. The granular types are more suitable for a small area than the spraying of a liquid one. Needless to say, only qualified persons should carry out the work.

In big gardens, where there may be large spaces which have yet to be planted, the spraying of empty areas with a pre emergent, may be reluctantly considered, because mulching is often impractical over large areas, mainly for economic reasons, as would be removing weeds by hand through the winter. There is though another way of managing weeds in these situations, which has none of the draw backs associated with residual herbicides, and that is to periodically mow the weeds, say once a month, by either a mechanical weed tool like a strimmer or if possible, even by a lawn mower. The weeds are not eliminated but kept under control. From all points of view this is better for the health of the soil, thereby creating better growing conditions when the open area is finally planted up.

Yet there is still important work to be done with the highly problematical perennial weeds at this time of year. These, in order to be eliminated, have to be treated with a systemic herbicide such as Roundup or other brands of Glyphosate. It should be remembered that Glyphosate, in order to get down to the roots, works slowly and when the temperatures are over 23-24c. So at the time of writing, the beginning of October, this is about the last chance to effectively deal with the noxious perennial weeds until next spring.

About the author - Jonathan Ya'akobi
I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984.
I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners.
I also teach horticulture to students on training courses.
I'd love to share my knowledge and experience with you.
So you're welcome to visit me on www.dryclimategardening.com