Asparagus, Liriope and Ophiopogon – Excellent Perennials For a Dry Climate And Mediterranean Garden

An important type of plant for all gardeners but particularly for dry climate ones, is an herbaceous perennial that fulfills a number of design functions, is easy to maintain, and consumes relatively modest amounts of water. Various ornamental varieties of asparagus, particularly those belonging to the species Asparagus densiflorus, can be placed in this category together with two related genera belonging like asparagus to the Lily family, (Liliaceae) Liriope and Ophiopogon. Let's begin with asparagus.

There are actually two main groups within A. densiflorus, which supply a number of highly versatile varieties. One is called "Sprengeri". The plants are low growing, with a kind of billowing habit. The foliage color is a medium to bright green with a fine, feathery texture. What appear to be leaves and indeed function like leaves, are in fact adapted stems known as clacodes. Asparagus "Sprengeri" can be planted a meter apart for a dense ground cover, or in small groups as part of an herbaceous bed. Another variety is known as "Myers Asparagus". While having very similar "foliage" color and texture to the Sprengeri, it grows to about 50cm, with a kind of arching habit. Possessing a defined shape, it can be used as a low emphasis plant. Both varieties also associate well with low growing shrubs and bushes like Pittosporum tobira "Wheeler's Dwarf" and Coprosma repens.

The Turf Lilies, Liriope and Ophiopogon, are grass-like plants. Most like Liriope muscari are pretty low growing but a few varieties can reach 50 cm or so. Like the afore-mentioned types of asparagus, they are excellent in herbaceous borders because by looking good all the year round, they can "hold" a flower bed together, during the inevitable periods when annuals have to be replaced, or perennials cut down and rejuvenated. Further more, turf lily is useful in a bed of ornamental grasses, where again, some of the plants will have to cut down periodically. Some species like Liriope spicata can also be planted as a small scale ground cover, while both Asparagus and Turf Lily associate well together in a planting scheme, and can be combined very successfully. They are also suitable for pots and containers.

All the plants are easy to maintain and care for. Occasionally, old and dry stems should be cut to the ground in order to make room for new, juvenile growth. In very hot climates, they are best grown in filtered sun or partial shade. Consequently, most species are suitable as "fillers" for planting at the foot of trees and bushes, even under plants like Bamboo which normally repel neighboring plants. With regard to watering, Asparagus, Liriope and Ophiopogon can be considered fairy modest in their demands. If grown in the shade in Mediterranean climates, irrigating to about 300mm a year should suffice, a saving of about 75% compared to lawn grasses.

Pistachios – How To Choose And Grow The Ideal Dry Climate, Mediterranean Plant

The genus Pistachio contains some excellent trees and shrubs ideally suited to a dry climate garden, due to their low water requirements, hardiness to pests and disease, and general ease of cultivation and care. Most famous of course is the tree, Pistacia vera, which produces the celebrated Pistachio nut. However a number of other species, while not producing edible fruit, are nonetheless fine ornamentals which associate well with other plants in the garden. Let's start with the Pistache nut.

Pistacia vera is a small tree that grows wild in South–West and Central Asia, in places where the average annual rainfall is around 300mm. This figure constitutes the minimum precipitation that trees require. So in areas which receive 400-500 mm per year, like the Eastern Mediterranean, established plants can be grown without irrigation, although occasional deep watering will improve growth and fruit production. The species is dioecious, meaning that female and male reproductive organs are separated on different individuals. In order to produce fruit therefore, both a male and female tree must be planted near each other.

The ornamental trees are typified by slow growth, wide canopies, and a height after many years, of some 15-20 meters. Chinese Pistachio, Pistacia chinensis, is deciduous, supplying lovely fall color even in places that incur light frosts. Two species worth considering from the Eastern Mediterranean are the evergreen P.paelestina, and the semi-evergreenP.atlantica. The latter is particularly long lived – specimens as old as 900 years are not unknown.

One of the most useful landscape bushes at the disposal of the Mediterranean gardener is the mastic plant, Pistacia lentiscus. Its small, delicate leaves give it a fine texture, making it suitable as a trimmed hedge, but looks best as a loosely shaped shrub. It goes well with fine-textured species of Sumac(Rhus) and other shrubs whose foliage is small and delicate. The foliage color is a rather dull green, and therefore functions as a good transition plant between shrubs whose leaf color differs from each other.

Pittosporum tobira - The Perfect Landscape Bush For A Dry Climate And Mild Winter Garden

As fashion drives some of the best ornamental plants out of the garden centers, spare a thought for one of the best – Pittosporum tobira.

When To Grow Bougainvillea In A Small Garden

There are not many plants that are as commonly associated with Mediterranean and warm climate gardens as Bougainvillea. The site of a whitewashed wall draped in the vine's purple or red flowers bracts * is often unforgettable. It is highly suited to a hot, dry climate, not only because of its spectacular colors, but also because once established, it can be grown with very little irrigation, being generally able to survive and indeed thrive on the winter rains alone. Ironically, Bougainvillea does not grow wild in Mediterranean countries, but originates from tropical and sub-tropical South America.

Despite its many fine attributes, Bougainvillea is often unsuited to small gardens. It can sometimes turn out to be a pest. Let's understand then, the uses to which it can be put, and the circumstances in which its planting can be appropriate or inappropriate. Bougainvillea is a rampantly growing, vine-like, thorny shrub. It suffers where winter temperatures drop below -3 or -4c, and thrives best in frost-free places. It should be grown in full sun. In small spaces, it is best grown on a wall or a fence. It is not self- clinging and needs to be trained and tied to a supporting structure such as a trellis. If planted in the ground, it requires ample space to sprawl. Its rampant, sprawling, growth habit means it usually ends up being an untidy mess in small gardens. That's why it is a poor choice as landscaping bush in such cases, but can be excellent as a large scale ground cover. One of the worst mistakes, one that is unfortunately quite common, is to plant a Bougainvillea shrub close to a path or entrance. As its thorns are amongst the most vicious in the plant kingdom, it can actually be very dangerous, although this characteristic makes it suitable as an impenetrable barrier, where such a requirement is relevant.

To get the best results, take care while planting to keep the root ball intact, as Bougainvillea's roots are relatively sensitive to disturbance. For this reason, it is very difficult to successfully transplant a specimen. As mentioned, established plants can get through a long, hot summer with modest irrigation. In fact, the more frequently watered, the fewer flowers will be produced. It is best therefore, particularly in heavy, clay soils, to water deeply but infrequently. Similarly, the application of chemical fertilizer encourages vegetative growth, at the expense of greater flower production. An annual feeding with compost or commercial humus should suffice.

In all circumstances, growing Bougainvillea is a labor intensive thing. For those with little time to maintain their garden, and who wish their outdoor space to be clean and neat, it would probably be advisable not planting it at all. However, used and grown correctly, the various varieties of Bougainvillea can add that touch to your garden that will make it special and satisfying.

NOTE: What are commonly thought of as the Bougainvillea's flowers, are in fact specialized leaves known as bracts, which enclose the real flowers?

Garden Hedges – How To Choose The Right Plant

A neatly sheared hedge is an architectural feature in the garden, answering to both functional and aesthetic demands. It is neither appropriate to every situation, nor is it to everyone's taste. However, if the idea of growing a group of bushes as a trimmed hedge has been decided upon as the design solution in a certain circumstance, then it should be clear, which type of plant is suitable for the purpose, and after that has been determined, which particular species possesses the necessary characteristics. The plant type most adaptable to being sheared as a hedge is one that contains the following growth habits

* If the hedge has screening functions, then obviously it ought to be evergreen.

* It must be reasonably easy to maintain the hedge within desired dimensions. If the width available for instance, is I meter, then there is no point in choosing a species which does not respond well to being thus contained.

* Shrubs should have small leaves and what is known as fine leaf texture, because those that do take to shearing better than course and large leaved plants. The latter tend to look worn and ragged after the hedge trimmer has been at them. Similarly, it is desirable that the species have dense and compact foliage.

* The Plants' foliage should be green and not purple or variegated. Darker shades of green are preferable to light shade, because they serve as a better backdrop to some focal point, such as a flower bed, water feature, or a sculpture. The color should be even, and therefore it is best that the hedge is composed of one species only. If some variety is desired, like including a silver leaved plant in the group, then it would be preferable to grow the bushes as a loose screen and not as a trimmed hedge.

The preference for fast growing species over slower ones is not clear cut. If rapid screening is required, then again, a loose screen of bushes may be more appropriate, providing there is enough width for them to grow. While it may be tempting to choose fast growing species, it should be noted that they are often more difficult to maintain successfully, requiring much more frequent trimming and shearing. An easy to maintain hedge which has taken 3 or 4 years to grow, may well be preferred to a rapid, rampant grower.

As to the species to choose from, my recommendations are based on over 20 years experience gardening in central Israel. I'm sure many of the plants will be familiar to people living in hot, dry climates.

Carissa macrocarpa: Natal Plum is a rather slow growing plant, but an excellent hedging bush. It has medium-green leaves, and interesting leaf texture, which is somewhat lost by overly heavy shearing.

Ligustrum japonicum: The privet is a mainstay of European gardens, but while thought of by some as "boring", it is almost perfect as a background plant. It may drop its leaves briefly if the temperatures drop below 5c or so.

Myrtus communis: Myrtle is also slow growing, but rewards the patient, by behaving like an ideal husband; being reliable, solid, and easily kept under control!

Podocarpus macrophllus: The Fern Pine is a great choice for narrow spaces, as it can be kept to a width of about 75-80cm.

The Best Reason For Making Your Own Compost

The argument in favor of consistently adding to the garden soil, organic matter in the form of compost or humus is overwhelming. Most professionals and an increasing number of home gardeners as well, recognize it as an essential part of sound horticultural practice. While compost may not be the cheapest or the most convenient way of supplying nutrients to the plants, a soil containing a high percentage of organic matter, is both healthier and functions as a habitat able to provide better growing conditions for the plants. The question arises then, whether the compost needs to be purchased or made at home?

One reason frequently suggested for going DIY is that it is cheaper than buying commercial products. But is this true? For regular maintenance, (excluding soil upgrading prior to planting) quantities of about 5 liters per square meter should be worked into the soil, twice a year. For a small family garden of say 100-200 meters sq, the required amount is therefore some 1,500 liters a year. As the raw material for a home made compost pile can only come from organic refuse from the kitchen and the garden, it is highly unlikely that enough raw material can be ever be available to break down to such a volume of ready to use compost. Even if sufficient amounts could be produced for very small spaces, the saving would barely amount to some $25 a year. For most home owners this is unlikely to serve as sufficient motivation for going to the trouble of producing home made compost. Why not continue throwing out the refuse and purchasing compost and humus products at the local garden center?

The best reason for not doing so and making ones own compost instead, is that recycling the home and garden waste that can be so recycled, reduces the volume of matter to be deposited in the landfill, while the extra compost needed for the garden can indeed be purchased. It is simply a question of each family doing its little bit for the environment, remembering of course that "a little bit" multiplied millions of times adds up to quite "a big bit". But what has this got to do necessarily with gardening? I am convinced that a responsible gardener is ultimately a better gardener. If we don't care about landfills, then why should those of us in dry climates bother about water conservation? And if wasting this precious resource is unimportant, then why show consideration to the neighbors? Responsibility implies patience humility and sensitivity, the inner qualities essential to achieving long lasting results in the garden. Just look at a magnificent old tree in a public park. What does it tell you about the people who looked after it over the years? Whoever and whatever they were and are, they must have had a least some patience, humility and sensitivity. They must have cared!

Preventing Weeds In A Winter Mediterranean Garden

There are a number of ways by which garden weeds can be controlled. In very small garden beds, they can always be hand-picked, a somewhat laborious job admittedly, but not especially so in small scale situations. However, where larger areas are concerned, it is often necessary to seek alternative methods, particularly during the winter/spring seasons in Mediterranean climates, as this is the time of year that vast quantities of annual weed seeds germinate. As in most aspects of life, prevention is better than cure. So how can weeds be prevented in the first place, and what are the pros and cons of the various methods?

One option, is to apply a pre-emergent herbicide, by spraying the ground before it becomes covered in weeds. While this might have its place in large scale situations, it is undesirable in a private garden. The pre-emergent weed killers possess residual properties allowing it to kill seedlings as they emerge over a certain period of time. While being in some ways a convenient method, they can grant you "freedom" from weeds for about 4-6 months, they effectively poison the top layer of soil while in an active state. If applied improperly, especially by untrained persons, they can cause serious damage to the soil and to neighboring garden plants.

A far safer and eco-friendly weed control strategy, is to spread a layer of mulch, usually about 10cm deep, over the soil between the plants. Organic mulches such as wood chippings, provide better growing conditions for the plants than inorganic ones like pebbles, and by slowly degrading, enrich the soil with humus. As far as weed control is concerned, wood chippings are as effective as pebbles provided they are spread to an adequate depth. It should be pointed out though, that mulching is generally ineffective against perennial weeds, its relevance being restricted to annuals.

Sometimes, decorative pebbles or some other type of aggregate, are used as part of the overall garden design. In dry climate and Mediterranean gardens they help to save water by offering an alternative to lawns and flower beds. For example, a bed adjoining the house can be sparsely planted with some interesting sculptural plants, the spaces between them covered by pebbles. A few decorative pots containing flowers can be added, while a climbing rose is trained on the wall as an espalier.

In a circumstance similar to this, it is common for landscape fabrics to be laid on the ground before the pebbles are spread. Portions of fabric are simply cut away where a planted is to be put in the ground. Landscape fabrics, prevent seeds in the ground from germinating, and are therefore considered by many to be an essential tool in weed prevention. There are however, some serious problems associated with their use, of which you may not be aware. Firstly, impermeable plastic sheets, are liable to direct rainwater towards the house, thereby being a source of damp in future years. For this reason, only semi-impermeable materials should be used, but even with these, rain water does not always drain evenly through the soil, but instead, tends to collect at certain points. A second consequence, is that sufficient rainwater is prevented from washing away, or leaching the salts that inevitably build up in the irrigated soil of a dry climate garden. In time, the soil salinity could rise to levels that retard plant growth and seriously damage the soil. Therefore, instead of spreading a fabric, I recommend adding the aggregates to a further depth of say 2-3 cm, to ensure that the weed prevention properties of the mulch are not lost.

Growing Vines In A Dry Climate Garden

Plants commonly known as climbers are vine like in their habit, growing by virtue of long, thin and generally flexible branches. They often grow naturally in forests and woods, where their "aim" is to reach out of the darkness of the forest's floor towards the sufficient light levels found at the trees' canopy. The various growth habits typical of different climbing plants, have developed over time in response to the need to grow on trees and large shrubs, as a means to reach upwards. Growing vines, provides the gardener with a variety of solutions for a number of situations. The question is, which plants are suitable, and for which circumstances?

Self-clinging climbers: These are plants that have organs allowing them to cling on to relatively smooth surfaces such as walls. In gardening terms they are virtually maintenance-free but over time can cause damage to windows and other parts of a building. Another problem is when trying to remove them from a wall, the attempt often resulting in extensive and expensive repair work being required. Examples are Ivy, the deciduous Boston Ivy, (Parthenossisus sp) Ficus pumila, and trumpet vine. (Campsis radicans) These plants though can be an excellent choice for free- standing and retaining walls. The mature foliage of both Ivy and Ficus differs from, and is much less attractive than the often delicate and interesting juvenile foliage. Pruning and clipping encourages new growth, and therefore the re-appearance of the young leaf shapes.

Twining climbers: These are the ones that can really create havoc, especially in small gardens. They should not be planted closely behind other plants like roses and other ornamental bushes, or herbaceous perennials. Maintenance simply becomes unmanageable as the twines encroach upon and wind themselves around the neighboring plants. Rampant twiners are best reserved to cover unsightly objects like garden sheds or wire fences, on condition that other plants are some distance apart. Common examples are Passion fruit, the phenomenal flame vine, (Pyrostegia venusta) and Podranea. I seriously recommend not planting species like Thunbergia grandiflora, it's stunning floral display notwithstanding. In small spaces it becomes a dreadful mess and tangle. There are twining plants that are a bit less aggressive and should be considered like honeysuckle, star jasmine, (Trachelospermum jasminoides) the delightfully fragrant Quisqualis indica and various species of jasmine itself.

Climbers requiring support: Plants in this category obviously demand work, care and attention, by way of training, tying and pruning, but ultimately, allow for a more controlled maintenance regime, and for a neater garden. Climbing roses and Bougainvillea are but two examples common to Mediterranean and dry climate gardens. Bougainvillea should not really be considered as a bush or shrub. It is a very poor choice indeed as a free standing shrub, particularly in small spaces, and ought to be trained on a wall or some other supporting structure, or dwarfed in a pot.

To read recent and related articles on these topics, click on the link below and then by clicking on the "Articles" page you can find the following articles:

* What Type of Plant is Best To Grow On A Wire Fence

* Beware! Climbing Plants Could Lower The Value of Your Property

What Type of Plant is Best To Grow On A Wire Fence

In small garden spaces where space is at a premium, and when there is a need to cover a not too pretty sight, like a wire or chain link fence, before running off to the garden center to choose a particular species, it would be worthwhile considering first, the growth habits of different plant types. One example of a growth habit would be that of a large shrub grown as an informal screen. In the case mentioned above, a plant in this category would be unsuitable because it would take up too much space. There are in fact three possible options. One would be bushes sheared as trimmed hedges, another would be growing climbing plants to cover the fence, while the third possibility would be to train and tie the branches of some tree or shrub species to the fence. Plants grown in this fashion are known as espaliers. Here are the pros and cons of each method.

A neatly trimmed hedge is usually an asset to any garden, for in addition to its screening function, it also serves as an ideal background for flowers or some focal point like a sculpture or water feature. The drawback when space is very restricted is that most bushes grown as a hedge will require a spread of at least 50cm in each direction from the plants' center. All in all, the hedge will take up a meter in width at the very least. A further disadvantage is that keeping a hedge that is straight and neat is far from easy, and at best is highly labor intensive. The noise of a mechanical hedge trimmer periodically annoying the neighbors should not be forgotten either.

Growing vine like plants, or climbers, is in some ways the easiest method to adopt. The plants cover the fence of their own accord, requiring little or no training. It appears at first sight to be a maintenance-free solution, and is undoubtedly the main reason why so many people are tempted by it. Yet herein awaits a trap, because many climbing plants are too rampant and become effectively unmanageable. Some examples would be Wisteria, Bougainvillea, Thunbergia Grandiflora, and the passion fruit (Passiflora). Another negative characteristic of vine like plants is the tendency of some species to become top heavy over the years. Due to a phenomenon in the plant kingdom known as apical dominance, where the leading bud pushes forward causing the lower buds to remain dormant, the plants become bare and woody from the ground upwards, while the foliage starts a meter or two above the ground. A typical example of this growth habit can be seen in honeysuckle. (Lonicera)

The espalier technique involves training and tying the branches of trees or bushes so they grow horizontally. The work is carried out on young branches which are sufficiently flexible. The consequence of horizontal growth, is that the apical dominance in each branch is neutralized, allowing the lateral buds to be activated and to grow. In this way, a climbing rose for instance, will produce infinitely more flowers than one grown vertically, and similarly, a fruit tree, or bush, will produce an abundance of fruit. The espalier method, requires a considerable amount of work in terms of training, tying, and pruning, but allows for a far more manageable and controllable situation than the growing of climbing plants.

To read recent and related articles on these topics, click on the link below and then by clicking on the "Articles" page you can find the following articles:

* Espaliers - Their Particular Importance In A Dry Mediterranean Garden

* Landscaping Hedges for a Dry Climate Garden

* Beware! Climbing Plants Could Lower The Value of Your Property

Tree Pruning – What You Should Not Be Doing At This Time

The question is sometimes asked whether pruning is good for trees. It may just as well be asked if surgery is good for people. Most people would presumably answer the latter question in the negative. Surgery often is necessary, but is undertaken reluctantly. The same attitude should also be applied to pruning trees. Of course trees are not as important as people, but they happen to be the single most precious element in the garden. Pruning, even in the most skilled of professional hands will always cause at least some damage, but irrespective of the skill or otherwise of the gardener, the time of year is also a major factor to be considered. The issue is less problematical for gardeners in cold winter climates, because the guidelines are pretty clear. Deciduous plants are pruned during their dormant season, namely the winter, while broadleaf evergreens are not touched until the spring. Furthermore, the range of plants is naturally restricted to those hardy to freezing temperatures.

In Mediterranean climates though, typified by hot dry summers and mild wet winters, plants originating from tropical and sub tropical regions are commonly seen in gardens, together with plants from cold and temperate areas. To add a further complication, even places that incur light frosts, can also experience dry warm spells, where the temperatures often rise to the 20c mark and beyond, to be followed by further cold snaps and frosts. These weather patterns have implications in fact not only for cold sensitive species, but for the hardy ones as well.

Any plant, whether tree, bush, or herbaceous, should not be pruned in any manner if it is sensitive to cold, until all possibility of frosts have passed. On the other hand, naturally deciduous plants, that is those that drop their leaves in the autumn as a dictate from their genetic code, should be pruned in their dormant season, as in cold winter climates. The important difference to be remembered however is that in cold winter places, pruning is usually carried out at the beginning of winter, whereas pruning cuts in mild climates at this time can actually be detrimental to the tree. Why is this the case? The combination of sufficient moisture, (this is the wet season) warm spells, and pruning, are conducive to renewed plant growth. It is this juvenile growth which is liable to be adversely affected by a frost that may follow a prolonged warm spell. The damage incurred by young, fleshy tissue is both direct and indirect. Directly, the damaged parts provide excellent conditions for fungal and bacterial infections to develop. Indirectly, the tree has simply wasted energy in growing new tissue only for it to be destroyed. Most people are unaware of the significance of positive energy levels being maintained in the tree but in the view of many arboriculturists, this the key to healthy tree growth and development.

The conclusion to be drawn is that hardy trees should be pruned right at the end of the dormant winter season. Where I live, (central Israel) we prune plants in this category from about the middle of February, because by the time new growth does appear, (the growth being partially induced by the pruning) about six weeks after pruning, the possibility of frosts has passed. That which applies to trees holds good for shrubs and bushes, including roses as well. From my experience, herbaceous perennials can be safely cut back at the beginning of the winter, providing that your winter climate is mild, and that the plants are not especially tender.

The Essentials of Indoor Gardening

Although the art of indoor gardening is not dry climate specific, the subject is particularly relevant to us arid country gardeners, as there's often greater scope for "going to town" in doors, than out. Growing plants indoors requires adopting a number of techniques which are different from those the home gardener may be used to when working in the outdoor garden, although there are things in common between the two. So here are some general points on the subject.

The principles of good design are the same whether indoors or out. Simplicity, variety, scale, balance, unity and emphasis, are issues that have to be addressed. Just as landscaping elements such as raised beds or water features are as an integral part of the outdoor garden as ornamental plants, so are the pots and containers one uses in the sitting room. Try to invest in decent looking pots and don't save money by buying plastic containers. Would you buy a plastic table for the sitting room for instance?

What are the differences then? These become apparent when one examines what plants need for healthy growth. Plants require adequate light in order to perform the most basic, energy creating function of photosynthesis. Plants that can be grown indoors are those that can tolerate low-level light intensity. There's no point trying to grow a rose bush in your living room! Therefore, the placing of your plants is crucial. Remember that the light levels drop exponentially the further the plant is from the window. In places without natural light, it's necessary to provide at the very least, the light of two 150 Watt bulbs.

All plants require water of course. Less obvious but no less crucial is the fact that the roots also require adequate oxygen for respiration. There are two main factors which determine whether the plant has access to the right balance between the two: One is the potting soil in which the plant grows and the other is the way the plants are watered. Never use ordinary soil in a pot. Always use an artificial potting medium. They are readily available at plant nurseries. Secondly, irrigate till excess water flows out of the drainage hole and then wait until the top 2 cm or so of "soil" have dried out before the next watering. The term "over watering" does not refer to excess water draining away, rather to a state whereby the potting mixture is perpetually saturated because of over frequent irrigating. Furthermore, watering to excess prevents an unhealthy salt build up in the soil, by the periodic leaching of the salts. This rule of thumb method holds good for most plants.

Plants grown in pots are absolutely dependent on fertilizer as a source of the mineral nutrient essential for their development. Excluding flowering plants perhaps, (which are not easy to grow indoors anyway) an annual feed with a 12 month slow release fertilizer is often enough.

So what plants are worth buying? The range of flowering plants is very restricted. African Violets are difficult to maintain beyond a year or two. Poinsettas are reasonably easy to grow. In my opinion, its better to create form and color interest by use of foliage plants such as Epiremnum Shefflera, Dracaena, Spathipyllum (also provides white flowers) and Aglaonema. For vertical emphasis one can try Ficus benjamina,(never to be planted out doors because of its aggressive roots) and palms such as Chamaedorea. Ferns, such as the mainstay Nephrolepis are effective when massed. They are particularly sensitive to the lack of humidity caused by heaters and air conditioners, so remember to spray them with water regularly.
An alternative method to ordinary containers (i.e. containers which allow water to drain out) is the hydroponic method, where the plants are grown in a sealed container. A specific water level is maintained in order to create the necessary balance between air and water. The primary drawback of hydroponics is the initial expense involved. However the ease of maintenance, especially regarding watering and feeding is such, that growing indoor plants hydroponically is well worth considering.

What To Do In The Mediterranean Winter Garden

The late autumn and early winter is a time of year when the gardener may be inclined to rest somewhat, believing that the garden tasks have largely been completed and that there is not too much to do until preparations for spring commence. This may be true to some extent in cold winter climates, but in Mediterranean regions, typified by mild winters, there is no shortage of necessary garden jobs to carry out. Furthermore, there's still time to complete some tasks which perhaps should have been performed in the autumn.

Feeding: Ideally, feeding should have been done at the beginning of the autumn, in order to take advantage of the brief resurgence of plant growth in the fall. If you neglected to do so, I recommend at this time, using organic compost without adding chemical fertilizer. As opposed to harsh winter regions, many plants do in fact grow considerably during the mild winter, even if this is not always apparent visually. The low nutriment concentrations released to the soil by compost should be entirely adequate to supply the requirements of the ornamental plans, while the adding of organic matter to the soil, is in any case a necessary, indeed vitally important thing in itself.

Lawn Care: If you failed to fertilize your lawn at the end of the summer, then it would be advisable to apply now a potassium rich fertilizer. High potassium levels through the winter, improve the lawn's hardiness to cold, and seem to allow for a better start when the grass renews its growth in the spring. Applying high doses of nitrogen is at best superfluous at this time of year. My preference is for slow or controlled release fertilizer, as opposed to readily dissolvable fertilizer like potassium chloride. All this is relevant of course to those who grow the perennial grass lawns common to hot summer/mild winter areas, such as Bermuda, Zoysia, Kikuya or St. Augustine grass. Mowing should be performed taking particular care not to scalp the lawn.

Dividing Perennials: This is probably the best season for lifting up, dividing and transplanting herbaceous perennials like Agapanthus, Achillea, or Coreopsis. In hot weather, the plants are liable to wither and die, because as root systems are inevitably damaged during transplanting, a time gap is created between replanting and the capacity of the uprooted plants to take up moisture from the soil. Plants should be pruned back before being up lifted, in order to reduce water loss, and kept in the shade until being replanted. This should be carried out as rapidly as possible, and then the plants should be hand watered immediately. The top soil should not be permitted to dry out until the plants have established themselves. Contrary to popular opinion, the winter is a perfectly appropriate season for planting, very tender species excepted, even where temperatures sink below 0c now and again.

Pruning is not generally recommended now. Cold sensitive plants should not be touched until all possibility of frost has passed, and those cold hardy plants which are normally pruned during their dormant season, should also not be pruned until the latter half of the winter. Nonetheless, ornamental grasses that look poor during the winter can be cut to the ground, on condition that they are not cold sensitive species. If in doubt, wait till the spring. The whole question of pruning in the winter will be dealt with in a future article. You can also click on the link below, and by clicking on the articles page of my site, find recent, related articles such as:

* Pruning In The Autumn – What You Should And Should Not Do

* Irrigation - How To Look After The Watering Needs Of Your Plants In The Winter

* What to do for your Lawn in the Spring/Autumn

Irrigation - How To Look After The Watering Needs Of Your Plants In The Winter

A question that troubles many private garden owners in hot dry climates, is the issue of watering the garden plants during the winter. It is a matter that causes considerable confusion particularly to those living in Mediterranean type climates, typified by winters that are generally wet, cool and mild. I live and garden in central Israel, which has an east Mediterranean climate. Some areas like Jerusalem usually receive light frosts during the winter, while on the coast, the temperatures are not likely to drop below 6 or 7c. A common weather pattern is a storm system depositing perhaps some 25-50 mm of rain over a couple of days, followed by a dry spell lasting a week or two, until the arrival of the next system. Warm temperatures around the 18-22c mark often occur in these periods between the storms. Sometimes as in drought years, they can last a lot longer. Whether you live in southern California, central Chile, or south-west Australia and other regions, this pattern will no doubt be familiar to you. The problem is what to do as far as watering is concerned during these dry spells?

There are in fact two aspects that need addressing. First and foremost, we should be interested in saving and not wasting water. Secondly, we should be aware of the needs and requirements of the garden plants. Young plants recently planted, are very likely to need watering during a dry spell, but what about established plants? It is worth knowing that in certain circumstances, not only is it the case that established plants do not require extra irrigation, but the additional watering can actually be damaging to them. So while totally ignoring the matter of irrigation is unrealistic in a Mediterranean winter, leaving the irrigation controller to operate unchecked is not only a waste of water, but liable to result in plant damage as well. How does this happen?

The plants require of course adequate supplies of available moisture to carry out all their physiological functions. Less obvious, although no less critical, is the availability of oxygen in the plants' root zone required to facilitate root respiration. Soil that is permanently saturated with water, is one lacking in oxygen that can be absorbed by the plants' roots. There has to be a balance between moisture and air to allow for healthy growth and development. This is why plants growing in poorly drained soil suffer and are liable to die. During the hot summer months, this is less of a problem due to the high rate at which moisture is removed from the soil both by evaporation and the plants' consumption .However, in cool ,cloudy weather, even if rainless, anaerobic conditions are liable to be created, meaning that insufficient oxygen is available to the roots. Here are some tips for testing whether there is adequate moisture in the soil.

* Look at the herbaceous plants in the ground, whether garden ornamentals or weeds. These can be termed "tell" plants because they tell us to considerable extent the level of moisture in the top soil layers. If the plants look green, vital with the leaves firm and turgid, as opposed to limp and wilting, then self evidently the roots have access to sufficient moisture. Woody plants on the on the hand, should never be used as indicators of soil moisture level, because signs of stress usually occur after a prolonged period of water deprivation, while herbaceous plants react immediately to a lack of moisture. Signs of stress in a tree can often mean the beginning of the end for that particular specimen.

* The soil surface may look bone dry a few days after a rainfall, but underneath it could be perfectly wet. Scratch the surface with some implement and feel the earth a few centimeters below the surface. If moist and wet, and if the plants look good as described in the previous chapter, then there is no need to water.

* Soil type is a major factor determining the necessity to water or otherwise, at any time in the winter. As clay soils retain moisture to a high degree, they are far more susceptible to prevailing conditions which are lacking in air, than are sandy soils. The latter on the other hand, are more likely to dry out quickly. So in the case of clay, or heavy soil, one should be more wary of over-watering, while with sandy, light soils greater care is needed to ensure the plants are not indeed drying out during a spell of warm, dry weather.

: Garden Design – Plants That Look Good Together In A Small Mediterranean Garden

Creating a successful planting scheme, is based on the exactly the same principles which determine the success or otherwise of an interior home design, a sculpture, a painting or the outfit to be worn for a social event. A person who knows how to dress, should theoretically, be able to "dress" the garden well too. However, it's very common to find people whose home is a model, and yet for some reason, when it comes to the garden, seem to jettison their more finely tuned instincts and even design knowledge, in favor of the "anything goes" attitude. However, the more disciplined the approach, the likelier the chance of achieving a balanced, harmonious, intriguing garden composition. This means as with dress or designing a sitting room, that the number of different type of elements – in the case of the garden – plants, should be relatively restricted.

Many of the world's great gardens were formerly private estates, but are now open to the public, as is the case in the U.K. A common feature is for the garden to be divided into rooms, where in each, a certain motif dominates. There can be a "white" garden, or a "blue" garden, an ornamental grass, and a rose garden amongst others. This preoccupation with finding a clearly defined motif, should in no way be confused with the theme park syndrome, suitable for Disneyland or perhaps some rock stars. The point is though, that the principle characteristic that makes these gardens so wonderful, is the definition, the restriction, the narrowing down of the options available.

Naturally the sub-division into separate units is inapplicable to a small, suburban plot, and as a result, the tendency is to try and cram as many different species as possible into the small space. So we end up with the "must have" garden - the obligatory rose bed, herbaceous border, rockery and fruit tree or two, the water feature and in hot climates, the tropical corner. All this within 100 meters square! An alternative approach, one that may appear at first to be conservative and cautious, but can in fact be far more daring, bold and interesting, is to aim for the "only" garden. This could mean for example, choosing only species that have a certain leaf texture in common, or only plants within a certain color range. It takes considerable courage to go down this route, if for no other reason than it goes against the grain and against what most home owners may consider the norm. So here are some ways of achieving a composition that is both unified and varied, simple but intriguing.

* One possibility, albeit an extreme one, is to choose every specimen from one plant type only. An example, admittedly not to everyone's taste, would be a conifer garden. There are so many varieties of Juniper, encompassing every form, size, habit and color conceivable, that a whole garden could be composed from this one genus alone.

* A certain genus or plant type could dominate, but it could be combined with other plants which share a common characteristic. An appropriate example would be mixing the shrubby Chrysanthemum, C. frutescens, with Junipers, because on the one hand, the Chrysanthemums' leaf texture is very similar to that of the Juniper, while on the other, the formers' flowers will provide contrast to the Junipers' foliage.

* A more relaxed approach is to choose the main landscaping plants from genera belonging to a single botanical family. Species of Grevillea, Banksia and Hakea (Proteaceae) from Australia fall into this category. They could also be mixed with a small number of "outsiders", that are of course similar in most of their features to the main group, such as Rosemary for instance. Much can be done by combining bushes and trees of the myrtle family (Myrtaceae) such as species and varieties of Melaleuca, the beautifully elegant Syzygium, Metrosideros, and the fruit yielding bushes, Pitanga and Feijoa.

One word of caution though. While reducing the number of species is desirable from a design point of view, it should be borne in mind that bio diversity is necessary from the angle of natural pest control.