Carissa macrocarpa – An Excellent Shrub For An Arid Climate And Mild Winter Garden

One of the most suitable landscape shrubs for a dry climate and mild winter garden is the Natal Plum, Carissa macrocarpa. It fulfills a number of design functions being attractive, very modest in its water requirements, hardy to most soil types other than boggy ones, suitable for sea-coast situations, and virtually untouched by pests and disease. An often overlooked property is its soft, tasty and decorative, sour/sweet fruit, which follow the pretty and fragrant white blooms.

Natal Plum reaches about 2 meters in both height and width, with a fairly open form that can be made more compact with careful pruning. Its finest quality in my view is the delicate oval shape and fine texture of the leaves. The Carissa is possibly unique and unmatched in this department. Furthermore, it associates quite beautifully with other bushes of similar growth habit and leaf texture, such as Coprosma, Raphiolepis, and the evergreen Sumac, Rhus ovata. It can either be the dominant species in a shrub combination, or used sparingly as a subtle accent plant.

There are other uses to which Carissa macrocarpa can be put. Carefully pruned up, it can transformed into a mini tree, creating a clear emphasis and even focal point. There is also a prostrate variety available now called ”Green Carpet”, that grows to about a meter in height but can be kept much lower by regular shearing, thereby serving as a valuable ground cover. It is successfully grown as a sheared, formal hedge, but by so doing, the beautiful textural effect is diminished, as is of course the amount of flowers and fruit.

Care, maintenance and drawbacks

Unfortunately, not all is rosey in the Carissa garden;it does have some drawbacks that should be taken note of. Natal Plum is not hardy to cold and should only be grown in frost-free areas. The plant is somewhat thorny, but not dangerously so. The leaves are hard, rubbery and prickly, and so the plant should not be located close to paths and entrances. More serious is the white poisonous sap in the leaves, but the chance of someone chewing and swallowing them are virtually non-existent, as the extremely bitter taste would force a person to spit them out immediately. Pruning though should be carried out wearing gloves and eye protectors, while ones mouth should be kept firmly shut, in order to avoid sap squirting into it! Its growth rate varies according to location.

Originating from South Africa, Carissa can be grown with very little irrigation. In Mediterranean climates it can survive without additional water, but will perform best with about 200mm (200 liters per square meter) per year. While the leaves are poisonous, the fruit are perfectly edible. It is worth noting that Carissa is one of those rare fruiting shrubs or trees, which is virtually pest free, making it a “must” plant not only for dry climate gardens, but organic ones as well.

Planting Trees – Where To Place Landscape And Fruit Trees

There are many criteria to consider when choosing a landscaping or fruit tree for the garden. When the choice has been made, the question then arises as to where they should be planted. While this may seem obvious, and simply a matter of common sense, judging by the number of needless mistakes one sees both in private and even public gardens, it is necessary to be aware of some basic guidelines on this issue.

Planting trees near paths and entrances

It is unfortunately not uncommon to find a young tree planted a couple meters from a path. The usual rationale is that branches which in the future are liable to disturb passers by, can “always be pruned.” This is absolutely the wrong attitude to take towards the tree. It cannot be cut, severed and butchered at will, without exacting a price, most probably a heavy one, in terms of its future health and longevity. Furthermore, chopping branches short (as opposed to pruning them back to their base) ruins the natural flow and direction of the branch, as well as leaving a permanently ugly wound. The correct distance therefore between the tree and the path, should be a couple of meters at least, added on to the approximate radius of any particular species. (The radius being the distance between the edge of the tree’s canopy and the trunk).

How far should shade trees be planted from the house?

It is generally accepted, although not absolutely essential, that shade trees in hot, dry, and Mediterranean climates be deciduous, that is bare of leaves during the winter. While the shade provided by the foliage cools the house down during the summer, the absence of foliage allows the sun’s rays to warm the house in the winter. To be most effective, the tree’s canopy should rise above the house. This is not always desirable though, as dark, gloomy, claustrophobic conditions could be unintentionally created, while the height of the tree could be out of scale with the building. It is also inappropriate of course where solar energy units have been installed on the roof.

In such circumstances, the shade tree should be planted far enough from the house so that it does not tower over it, yet be close enough so that the shadow from the hot afternoon sun does help to cool down the house, at least to some extent. So again it’s necessary to know the radius of the mature tree’s canopy. The tree should ideally be planted therefore on the south west side of the house. If an evergreen species is used, then it should be tall enough to allow the lower angle of the winter sun’s rays to warm the house somewhat.

Ornamental Plants That Can Ruin Your Garden

There are a number of ornamental garden plants that one should be wary of for safety reasons, such as those that are highly poisonous, allergenic, or posses dangerous thorns. Although the health and well-being of your family is obviously of primary concern, it should also be remembered that there are many categories of plant that while not being dangerous to people, are liable to become unmanageable, thereby causing the garden to fall well below the standard you expected and dreamed of. In short there are types of plant that create conditions that can ruin your garden.

Some trees

The tree is the single most important and precious element in the garden. An unsuitable choice of species though can actually damage the quality of life rather than enhance it. Firstly, trees that have aggressive roots must never be planted within 20 meters of the house or underground structures like sewage pipes. The expense and distress caused can be severe. Secondly, while trees are essential providers of shade, particularly in hot, dry climates, excessive shade can make the house dark and gloomy. It is not fanciful to point out that that such conditions could induce depression in certain circumstances.

Consideration ought to be given to the level of shade imposed on the garden beds and borders as well. A massive canopy is liable to exclude most flowering species, and radically reduce the range of plants available. It may not have been your attention to end up with a dark, dank outdoor space comprising of two poplar trees and ivy! Don’t forget also, that some tree species such as Eucalyptus, release chemicals that inhibit the growth and development of nearby plants. This phenomenon is known as allelopathy.

Ornamental plants that turn into weeds

Just because a plant is a desired ornamental, does not mean that it cannot posses properties that enable it to spread uncontrollably in the garden and sometimes beyond. One of the worst examples where I live (Israel) is that of the Tree Of Heavan, Ailanthus altissima, which introduced in the early 70s, has not only run amok in parks and gardens, but more perniciously, has invaded natural woodlands as well.

Pests and disease

Prevention as they say, is better than cure, no less than when it comes to pests and disease. There is little point in including species in the garden which are so vulnerable to attack, that one is constantly fighting against them. The garden after all, is supposed to be a retreat not a battleground! In general, the most susceptable plants are fruit trees such as plum and cherry, but of course there are many more. Before choosing a fruit tree, ask a qualified professional as to its vulnerability.

Rampant climbers

Many home gardeners are tempted to plant on a wall or fence, certain colorful vine-like species such as Morning Glory. My advise to owners of small space gardens is to make every effort to avoid including such plants. They tend to become “top-heavy”, that is green on top, and bare down below, and create a tangled mess. Some like Thungergia grandiflora, really take over, smothering many other plants in the process. Maintenance of the garden consequently becomes long, tiresome and expensive, as opposed to fulfilling, enjoyable and manageable.

Garden Plants - The Type Of Plants You Should Avoid Putting In Your Garden

Holding a positive attitude is all the rage right now. “If you focus on the things you don’t want, you will attract them to yourself” – is what’s on many peoples’ lips today. This no doubt is all very true, but without decrying the wisdom being imparted today, the amateur home gardener should be aware of the things that may be lurking in the backyard, some of which can actually endanger life and limb.

Poisonous plants

Admittedly, many plants are toxic to at least some extent. Some people are allergic to common favorites like Olive and Cypress trees. Furthermore, there is always the proverbial one in a million chance of a person being allergic to a particular plant that is not generally supposed to be allergenic. Taken to an extreme, we would be frightened of putting anything at all in the garden. There is of course no need for this. Nevertheless, common sense should prevail, and the life threatening species ought to be avoided. One such case in dry climate gardens, is the ornamental shrub Nerium Oleander, where all parts of the plant, if eaten, can be fatal. Even burning dry branches is liable to be dangerous.

Spiky and thorny plants

As with plants that posses some level of toxicity, the exclusion of every thorny species would mean that many excellent ornamental mainstays would be lost to the garden. Roses for instance, would suffer a banning order. Without going to such lengths, it is nonetheless prudent to avoid plants that can cause serious injury. The spikes of Yucca are horrific, and often spring out at a child’s eye level. I am always horrified to see them at the edge of a lawn, where children are innocently running around.

Another horror plant is the widely used date palm. (Phoenix dactilyfera) It is totally unsuited to a small garden or to any narrow space. I personally know a 5 year old boy who is suffering one year on after being stabbed in the arm from a date palm leaf, for the plant is not only dangerously thorny, but highly allergenic as well. If you want a palm tree in the garden, choose a non-violent type like Archontophoenix instead. For similar reasons, the Pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana) with its razor sharp leaves, should only be planted where there is no danger of people brushing passed it.

It is worthwhile therefore taking an inventory of the plants currently in your garden. Spikey plants in vulnerable places should be removed, while an expert specializing in poisonous plants should be consulted with, in order to ascertain as to which are dangerously toxic to an unacceptable degree.

Ground Cover Plants – How To Prevent Them Being Smothered By Weeds.

Ground hugging plants often have a distinct design role in a garden composition. Quite often though, the ground covers fail to live up to expectation, and instead of creating a neat green carpet, or a lovely tapestry of color and texture, an untidy cabbage patch ensues instead.

There can be many reasons for disappointment, such as the choosing of an inappropriate species for a given situation, or poor horticultural practises, but all things being equal, the biggest single factor is likely to be that of weeds retarding the growth of young plants, thereby preventing them from establishing themselves. In this struggle for power, how can the advantage be engineered in favor of the ground cover plants, at the expense of the weeds?

Noxious perennial weeds

Pulling the odd weed or two out of the ground is a part and parcel of gardening. However, there are weeds, most notably some perennial species, that cannot be managed effectively by manual means, as their complex root systems make it virtually impossible to uproot them. Weeds like Bindweed or the sedge Cyperus rotundus simply come back after a few days. Success with ground covers is to a great extent dependent on the total elimination of perennial weeds, roots and all, before the planting begins. This is most effectively done by spraying the weeds with a systemic herbicide such as Roundup. It should be remembered that Roundup’s systemic properties only operate in warm weather, and that the process of eradication, if carried out properly, can take over 10 weeks or so.

Native annual weeds

In Mediterranean climates, native annual plants germinate and grow mainly during the cool and wet winter months. In years with decent amounts of rainfall, coverage is very extensive, and the growth of the weeds can be so rampant as to totally smother the ground covers. In small garden beds, a few hours work every two or three weeks may well suffice to keep the weeds in check and thus protect the plants from being taken over. Preferably, germination of weed seeds can be almost entirely prevented by the spreading of an organic mulch such as of wood chippings, to a depth of about 10cm.

In large scale situations though, the cost of mulching may be prohibitive, while manual hand weeding is liable to be an unrealistic option. In such circumstances it may be advisable to use a pre-emergent herbicide, such as Ronstar, which can be spread on the ground and then thoroughly watered in, some time after planting. It is essential to calibrate the spreader accurately, so that the material is dispersed at the rate specified by the manufacturer. The work should only be carried out by a qualified professional.

Needless to say, the use of pesticides should be discouraged as much as possible. Pre-emergent herbicides are particularly undesirable due to their residual properties in the soil. However over time, as the ornamentals cover the ground, the rate of germination will decrease to negligible proportions, thereby doing away with any further need to resort to poisons.

Garden Design Issues – Planting Under A Magnificent Tree

A splendid tree is often or not, the central focal point in a garden. Sometimes, particularly in small, backyard and patio gardens, designers give the space directly surrounding the tree, a clearly defined edge, in order to emphasize its pivotal role in the composition. The question then arises as to how the ground underneath the tree should be covered.

Whatever plants or materials are chosen, and in whichever configuration, the aim should always be to ensure that the ground plane enhances the tree’s dominant role, and in no way detracts from it. Too often, one sees plants stuffed in the ground around a tree, more as an after thought than as a carefully considered decision as to how the picture as a whole can be completed. Let’s work then through a number of options.

Flowers

Flowers are often planted around a tree because the gardener did not really know what else to do. “When in doubt, just pepper the garden with annual flowers”, seems to be the guiding principle here. The trouble is, that flowers are liable to compete with the tree for attention, while in design terms, the tree should be allowed to be the dominant factor. A confused and messy feel is likely to result, especially if a number of flower species are used. How for example, does a “riot of color” go with the gnarled and twisted trunk of an ancient olive tree?

Flowering plants could be suitable though if used with the clear design purpose of being an integral part of the composition, in which the tree has central stage. The plants should be carpet- forming, neat in form, and ideally of one color. (A monochromatic design) For instance, the pinkish red flowers of Bussy Lizzy (Impatiens) create an exciting combination with the lush foliage and colorful fruit of an orange tree. It’s important of course to make sure that the plants are shade loving.

Neat ground cover plants

Ground cover plants which create a neat carpet, complement very effectively trees of fine form and shape. An excellent example for a Mediterranean garden is the delicate-textured ground cover, Myoporum parvifolium, growing under a Pomegranate, Crape Myrtle, or Judas tree. Varieties of Ivy that have small leaves are also appropriate, although an annual cutting back of the Ivy will be necessary, to prevent it climbing up the tree. It may look pretty, but it will kill the tree in time.

Pebbles and wood chippings

Ornamental pebbles will provide the ordered, clean appearance required to set off the splendor of the tree. It’s important though to consider how the material to be used associates with different types of tree. Stones definitely imply aridity, and are therefore appropriate beneath dry climate species such as the Olive, but look incongruously out of place under palms or tropical plants. Wood chippings on the other hand, by imparting a “woodsy” feel, look suitable under almost every kind of tree.

Soil Testing – A Necessary Task Before Planting A New Garden Or Border

Setting up a new garden invariably involves incurring considerable expense. While the hard landscaping elements such as paving, steps and water features usually take up the lion’s share of the budget, the cost of garden plants is hardly cheap at today’s prices. Yet it is at this point that many home owners, perturbed perhaps by the escalating costs, resist the suggestion of paying a further $300-$500 or so for one of the most necessary steps that should be taken prior to planting. The step is professional soil testing, which should be seen as an integral part of the process of creating a garden, or re-planting an extensive border.

In a soil test undertaken by a professional and reputable company, representative samples of earth are taken to a laboratory for analysis, the purpose of which is to gather accurate information upon which decisions regarding issues such as irrigation procedures, feeding regimes and the choosing of plants, are based. Much money can be saved of course by buying a home soil test kit, through which valuable data can be collected. These kits are no doubt adequate where relatively isolated questions are at stake; “is the soil acidic enough for Azaleas or Hydrangeas?” Or do I need to add nitrogen fertilizer? However, there are many other important matters which are usually beyond the scope of a home kit, so while these may be a necessary addition to the tool box for general maintenance, it is still desirable to undertake a professional test, where a large scale project is concerned. What kind of information then is necessary before planting?

Soil type: Determining whether a soil is predominantly clayish or sandy, (soil texture) has direct implications for irrigation and feeding practises.

Nutrient levels: It may not be that much of a discovery to know that it’s usually necessary to add nitrogen to the soil prior to planting, but in many dry climate soils, phosphorus is often present in quantities that can be damaging to certain plants.

Soil salinity: An increasingly common characteristic of soils in dry climates is high salt concentrations. This can have the most drastic implications for the growth and development of the garden plants, and perhaps more significantly, for the capacity of the soil to sustain vegetation in the future. As fertilizing and especially watering affect salt concentrations, professional advice on this issue, is in my opinion essential.

Soil pH: The acidity (low pH) or alkalinity (high pH) of the soil is something that home soil test kits can determine. Most dry and Mediterranean climate soils tend to be alkaline, affecting both the range of plants that can be chosen, and the availability of mineral nutrients to the plants. Highly alkaline soils can be amended by incorporating sulphur-based products, while excessive acidity reduced by lime. While commercial products give instructions as to the desired quantities relative to a soil’s pH, it is safer to consult with a soil expert. An extremely high pH at a depth of say 30-40cm, could indicate building rubble, kindly buried in your plot by the building contractor!

Soil pathogens: A soil analysis should also discover the presence of noxious perennial weeds or disease organisms like root nematodes, which can create havoc after the garden has been planted. Treatment of nematodes is normally beyond the competence of a gardener, and requires consulting with a soil specialist.

Drainage: This can be checked by the home owner alone. If rain water is standing in puddles for more than a few hours, then steps must be taken to improve the soil’s drainage. Help from a professional gardener should be sufficient.

Fertilizing Outdoor Plants Growing In Containers – Which Type Of Fertilizer To Use

In principle, the best way to provide nutrients to established garden plants growing in the soil, is to add on a consistent basis, organic matter in the form of compost. For as well being a source of the mineral nutriment essential to plant growth, organic matter improves and develops the health of the habitat in which the plants grow, namely the soil. There are circumstances though when the use of chemical fertilizer is preferable to compost. One of these relates to plants grown in pots. As there are a number of methods by which chemical fertilizer can be applied, the question arises as to which is the most appropriate.

Plants in pots or containers must always be grown in some form of artificial potting medium, in order to ensure the correct air/moisture balance in the root zone. One such medium, highly regarded by landscape professionals today, is Perlite, which amongst its various properties, excels both in its capacity to retain moisture on the one hand, and sufficient oxygen on the other. Chemically, it is almost entirely inert, which is an advantage in one sense, as the problem of salt build-up is avoided. Yet the other side of the coin is that mineral nutrient is liable to be entirely lacking for the plants, unless supplied on a constant basis. This is why regular applications of chemical fertilizer are necessary. How though should it be applied?

Clearly, the old method of manually spooning readily soluble fertilizer is impractical at least in the case of Perlite,as the work would have to be carried out every few days or so. An elegant way round this is by installing an automatic fertilizer pump, where a specially balanced blend of liquid fertilizer is injected through the drip irrigation lines. Today, the pumps are calibrated by the manufacturer so that low and safe concentrations are supplied to the plant’s roots, during every watering. Watering a bit to excess on each occasion ensures that the salinity of the medium is kept in check.

Despite its many benefits, there are a number of drawbacks to this method, not least of which, is the legal obligation required by most countries to install an instrument preventing the backflow of water. However in Mediterranean climates, typified by hot dry summers, and mild cool and wet winters, there is another disadvantage with fertilizer pumps, which should be considered.

It is often forgotten that the garden plants require some access to nutrients during the mild Mediterranean winter, albeit at greatly reduced levels. For plants growing in the ground, the compost added in the autumn should suffice. When it comes to containers however, especially if the potting medium used is a chemically inert product like Perlite, it is necessary to ensure that a supply of fertilizer is available to the plants. As fertilizer pumps supply the nutrients via the irrigation system, one is forced to open the taps, even if the plants do not need watering. Baring in mind that Perlite can hold sufficient moisture during the winter for a good 3-4 weeks, it follows that this great water conserving benefit is lost.

It is for this reason amongst others, that I advocate the use of slow release fertilizer as the principle means of feeding pot plants that are grown outdoors. (The hydroponic method applicable to indoor plants requires a different type of fertilizing) There are a number of products available, which release the nutrients over periods of time ranging from 3 to 12 months, thereby reducing labor to a couple of times a year or less. Many brands also contain trace elements, which are generally not lacking in garden soils, but may well be so in the artificial potting media.

Plant Nutrition – The Crucial Importance Of Trace Elements For Your Garden Plants

Most home gardeners are aware that the garden plants require a supply of mineral nutrient for their growth and development. As elements like nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are the names that usually appear on fertilizer packages, it is sometimes assumed that they are the “important” nutrients. On the other hand, the so-called trace elements, with the possible exception of iron, are often considered to be of negligable importance.

Nothing could be further than the truth. Trace elements like Manganese, Iron, Zinc, and Copper, are every bit as vital to plant metabolism, as they play essential functions in such processes as respiration and photosynthesis, and so a deficiency in even one element will adversely affect the healthy growth of the plant.

Trace elements are called as such because they are required by the plants in miniscule quantities, while the macro elements such as nitrogen are needed and consumed by plants in large quantities. For this reason the latter are sometimes lacking in sufficient amounts, and so have to be supplied artificially by means of chemical or organic fertilizer. Recognising then that the trace elements have to be available to the plants, how can the home gardener ensure that they be so? To answer that, let’s understand a few basic points about trace elements particularly as they apply to dry and Mediterranean climates.

*In the chalky, alkaline soils common to most arid regions, trace elements are normally present in sufficient quantities.

*When present in excessive concentrations however, some are actually poisonous for plants, no more so than the essential element, boron. In fact one of the problems associated with the increasing salinity of dry climate soils, is the rising concentration of trace elements to the point where they are liable to poison garden plants.

*Deficiencies in one or more trace element are most likely to be caused by soil conditions that render the element unavailable to the plants. For instance, in alkaline soils, iron tends to crystallize into a solid state. Due to the fact that plants take up the elements as mineral salts dissolved in the soil water, it follows that in solid form an element cannot be absorbed by the plants’ roots. Poor aeration, typical of many heavy, clay soils is another factor preventing the uptake of essential elements.

*An excess of one trace element in the soil water, (where it is available to be taken up by plant roots) can cause another one to become absorbed by the mineral clay of the soil particles and thus be removed from the soil water. Such is the case with iron, which in high concentrations, “pushes out” manganese and zinc. It follows therefore that iron fertilizers should be used with great caution, as their misuse, is liable to create a deficiency in other minerals.

*In most cases, sound management of the soil should suffice in preventing trace element deficiencies. This entails ensuring adequate drainage and high percentages of organic matter, by way of compost, in the earth. As a result, oxygen levels in the soil rise, and it also becomes less alkaline, thereby increasing the solubility of many mineral salts. In principle, fertilizers which contain trace elements are best reserved for the artificial potting media in use for container culture.

*The most common symptom of iron deficiency is the yellowing of the plants’ foliage – a condition known as chlorosis. Yet these symptoms could alternatively indicate nitrogen deficiency, which can occur under anaerobic soil conditions, even when copious amounts of nitrogen fertilizer are regularly applied. It’s better therefore to try and improve poor conditions such as compacted soil in lawns, before rushing in with iron fertilizer. A soil test may be suitable as well.

*Applying iron fertilizer though is sometimes the answer for plants growing by walls, where building material residues raise the pH (acid-alkaline scale) to a level of alkalinity that prevents iron from dissolving in the soil water. Iron fertilizers normally come in chelate form, which bypass the soil pH. The chelate’s properties of protecting the iron molecules from crystallizing are lost though when exposed to sun light. So the fertilizer has to be dug into the soil as quickly as possible.

Garden Care And Maintenance – Growing Plants To Create A Natural Effect

A sense of order and decorum is the feeling that most people wish their garden to give to them. Yet it is also desirable that the plants appear to have been there for ever; that they seem to belong. While the hard landscaping should create clear shapes and strong lines, it is the job of the plants to soften these lines and blur their angularity. In order for the plants to add a natural dimension to the composition, it’s important to choose them judiciously and then to grow them in a certain manner.

Designing with plants for a natural effect

The most effective, natural plant associations are derived from species that possess as many visual features in common with each other as possible. Individuals that stand out from the mass in say shape, size or foliage color should have at least one characteristic that they share with the rest of the plants. Small leaved or fine textured plants for instance, go well with each other, but look incongruous with plants that have giant or course textured leaves. Just think how dreadful Cypress trees look with palms, or how out of place rose bushes seem next to Philodendrons.

Design and nature join hands in the sense that plants of similar growth habit and visual characteristics, almost invariably grow wild in similar or parallel habitats. For example, Pistachios from Central Asia, Grevilleas from South West Australia and Leucophyllum from Texas, all have the small, fine textured foliage typical of plants that grow in dry climates. While on the other hand, large leaves and course texture are the most obvious features of plants from tropical regions.

Pruning trees

Some exaggeration notwithstanding, the most insulting complement a gardener can receive is to be congratulated on his/her pruning. The aim should be that the pruning is as inconspicuous as possible. In order to achieve this and thereby maintain the natural feel of the tree, it is important to:

*Avoid pruning cuts which shorten branches. Instead, limbs should be cut back to their base, whether that be another branch or the trunk itself.

*Avoid cuts which disrupt the direction in which the branch is growing. Let’s say a thin branch is attached to a thicker one at an angle of 60 degrees. If the thicker branch is removed, then the direction has been altered together with an ugly pruning wound that will always be conspicuous. The tree will for ever appear “pruned” and not seem as though it belongs naturally to the landscape.

*Do not plant trees too close to paths and entrances, in order avoid inviting in the future the sought of undesirable pruning just described.


Caring for shrubs and bushes

Shrubs that have a strong and clearly defined shape like junipers, Yucca and other sculptural plants, should only be pruned in a way that does not alter their natural growth habit. Most bushes though require some clipping and pruning in order to encourage compact growth and to avoid an untidy and unkempt appearance. If carried out in the growing season, branches can be shortened, allowing the gaps to fill in reasonably quickly. Garden sheers and hedge trimmers can be used as well, but to maintain a natural feeling, the edges between the sides and the tops should be rounded out, so that the blatantly unnatural sight of angles is avoided.

Garden Design – Creating A Natural Garden In A Small Space

Most people who own their own garden do so at least in part, because they want a touch of nature in their backyard, as way of relief from the glass, concrete and asphalt of urban life. Is it possible though, within the confines of a town or suburb plot, to develop a “natural retreat” in a space that is inevitably artificial and manipulated? The short answer has to be negative. Yet if the question is approached from a certain angle, then the yearning for a home garden that does possess a natural feel can be satisfied to a considerable extent.

By way of approach, it’s important not to be led astray by the mistaken and misleading terms that are frequently bandied about today. The very idea of garden design for example, is often thought of as the antithesis of a “natural” garden. “Just plant whatever you like and let things grow naturally,” is a common refrain. The implication is that randomness equals nature, while design equals artificiality. Yet there is virtually nothing random about a natural eco-system. In fact the exact opposite is the case, as the presence and population levels of the mass of organisms, is governed by the strict and precise laws of nature.

As in nature, the rules of design, not to be confused with personal taste, follow laws that have universal application, not because certain groups of people like architects, artists and fashion designers have decreed what’s “in” and what’s “out”, but rather because of the known effect certain stimuli have on the human brain. A garden design that is unbalanced for instance will make people feel uncomfortable, as will one that is confused and unclear, due to the human craving to understand what’s going on. Plants that are not in scale with the objects and spaces surrounding them, will feel out of place, while a sense of disharmony is liable to ensue from flower bed that is a “riot” of color. Why call bad taste nature? Why not call it bad taste!

Satisfying results can only be achieved in the long run if the garden is created by adhering to the rules of design. In small spaces, the closer one stays to correct geometrical proportions, the greater the likelihood of achieving the sense of calm and ordered harmony craved for by most garden owners. The question then arises as to which kind of geometry should underline the basic setting out of the site. The most formal and least natural effect is of course derived from strict symmetry, while asymmetrical balance can produce a clear, logical composition, which is also more stimulating and less contrived. Neither do geometrical shapes necessarily imply straight lines and right-angles. Curved lines are softer and more natural in feel than straight ones, but to maintain the underlying strength of the design, the radius of the curve should equal or be proportionate to other prominent lines in the garden.

Finally, it is the garden plants themselves and the way they are grown that determine whether the garden will feel natural or otherwise. Trees should be pruned in a way that goes along with the natural flow of the branches, whereas with shrubs, trimming and clipping should leave the plants with a rounded shape. It is instructive that in the Japanese horticultural tradition, where representing nature plays such a prominent part, shrubs and bushes are clipped to create a sense of order on the hand, but never topiaried into straight lines and right-angles on the other.

Climbing Roses – A Special Way To Grow A Special Plant

Growing a climbing rose bush can be one of the most satisfying features in a garden. Usually, the rose’s long stems are trained to grow vertically up a pole where they cover the ceiling of some structure such as a trellis or pergola. You may have noticed that the flowers appear only at the plant’s tips, while the shrub as a whole is green with foliage, but bare of flowers. There is a way however of inducing the mass of the plant to be smothered in blooms, thereby creating a far more spectacular effect.

The trick is to train the branches to grow horizontally, spacing them some 20-30cm from each other to create a kind of a fan shape. When stems grow horizontally or parallel to the ground, the dominance that the leading bud exerts on those below is neutralized, while the buds situated along the branches are activated and start to sprout short stems, upon which develop leaves and then flowers. This procedure is known as the espalier method, and is an excellent way of covering a wall, fence, or even a garden shed.

Climbing roses, while not necessarily being suitable for every situation, should definitely be considered in many circumstances. The large Bordeaux red flowers of the variety “don Juan” for instance, can look breathtaking against a white stone wall, as can the dark crimson of “Chrysler Imperial,” (climbing type) while a gentler effect is achieved by bushes that sport pink, or pale yellow blooms, such as the climbing varieties of “Peace”, “Queen Elizabeth”, or “Gloire de Dijon”.

The drawback of choosing a climbing rose as the solution to a particular design issue is of course the work involved in caring for it. Clearly it is much easier and cheaper to plant some self-clinging vine such as Ivy to do its worst, and of its own accord, ramble wild and smother what ever needs to be covered. The trouble with the latter option is that however tempting it may seem in terms of saving labor and maintenance, expensive damage is liable to be caused to the wall of a building in the long run. A far better alternative, let alone an infinitely more beautiful one, is to take the trouble and grow a climbing rose.

To achieve the best results it is advisable to build some support structure, which not only allows for the branches to be trained and tied onto it, but is also strong enough to take the weight of the rose bush when it reaches maturity after a few years. On a stone wall for example, metal pegs can be drilled at suitable intervals, so that wires can be stretched at the afore-mentioned distance of 20-30 cm. This admittedly involves some initial expense both in materials and labor, but the investment should be extremely worthwhile.

Growing a climbing rose as an espalier, not only requires tying and training, but pruning as well. In the winter, the short stems known as spurs, which sprout from the main branches can be pruned back to the first two or three buds, (but not less than two) while branches that cannot be easily trained can be removed. Spent flowers can always be dead-headed through the year, as needs be. It should be remembered that many climbing varieties are in fact “mutants” of regular rose shrubs, and that pruning the main stems can cause them to revert to their non-climbing habit. It follows therefore that the main branches should not be shortened, although old stems can be removed entirely to make way for juvenile growth.

Nitrogen – When How And In What Form To Feed It To Your Garden Plants

Nitrogen is the essential element that in terms of quantity is required most by plants. It has many functions in plant metabolism, not least having a crucial role in protein formation. As it readily becomes unavailable in the form that plants can absorb it, it is also applied the most as a plant feed. Therefore in the majority of gardening situations, it is necessary to avoid a state of nitrogen deficiency and add it to the soil. In what form should this be done? For nitrogen, while present in the atmosphere as a gas, and locked up in organic compounds in the soil humus, is only available to the plants as mineral salts dissolved in the soil water.

The short and simple answer or perhaps simplistic answer is to apply readily soluble, chemical fertilizer such as Ammonium Sulphate or Urea. However plant nutrition does not take place in isolation from the general conditions prevailing in the soil. For instance, a lack of oxygen in the soil sets in motion a process known as de-nitrification, whereby mineral nitrogen changes to a gas phase, and is consequently lost to the atmosphere.

In order to prevent this, it’s necessary to ensure adequate drainage, and also a large percentage of organic matter, in the form of humus, in the soil. A high humus content helps to form a crumbly soil structure and thus a satisfactory balance between air and moisture. It further serves as raw material for essential soil organisms such as earthworms, which by their activity both enhance the soil’s aeration and indirectly cause nitrogen to become more available to plant roots together with the other elements vital to plant growth. It follows therefore that periodically adding compost or humus to the earth is an integral and necessary part of plant nutrition.

If Nitrogen fertilizer in chemical form is to be applied, it should be done so during the plants’ growing season. For lawns, the spring and early autumn are generally the ideal seasons, at least in Mediterranean climates, whereas fertilizing in the summer often induces fungal infestations. Chemical fertilizing is a cheaper and probably more effective method of feeding lawns than the spreading of compost, but it should be noted amongst other drawbacks, that a serious environmental issue is at stake here.

The problem is that nitrogen fertilizer is easily leached out of the soil by rain or irrigation, and in the form that it rapidly turns into, (nitrates and nitrites) pollutes the water table, or any other body of water into which it eventually drains, such as lakes and rivers. It is primarily for this reason that I advocate the use of slow release fertilizer containing a balance of nutrients, as opposed to soluble types. In any case, for lawns, entirely satisfactory results can be achieved in most home garden situations by their use.

With regard to the garden plants as a whole, it’s usually necessary to add nitrogen fertilizer while planting a new garden bed. The soil should be thoroughly composted before hand, at a rate of at least 20 liters per square meter of ground, and a balanced slow release fertilizer, containing a high percentage of N and P (nitrogen and phosphorous respectively) applied at the rate indicated by the manufacture’s instructions.

The Crape Myrtle Tree – How To Prune This Wonderful Ornamental

The Crape Myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica, is one of the most ideal choices for a tree in a small garden, backyard or patio. It is also fairly modest in its water needs and so is particularly suitable for dry and Mediterranean gardens. It has an attractive form, delicate leaf texture and as a deciduous plant, looks good when out of leaf, not least due to its reddish pealing bark.

It is usually chosen however because of its amazing flower display in the summer months; Crape Myrtle blooms being one of the highlights of the gardening calendar. While being impressed by flower display alone is normally a bad reason for choosing a particular tree species, in the case of Lagerstroemia, by virtue of its small size and non-aggressive roots, an exception can be made. In fact the flower color is so significant that uniquely perhaps among trees, it determines the pruning method to be adopted.

Pruning to shape trees almost always involves removing whole branches at their base, rather than shortening them, as with shrubs and bushes. This is so in order to maintain the natural shape and flow of the tree. Conversely, the branches of flowering shrubs like roses are shortened, to induce better and more prolific flowering. It should be remembered that roses are not generally grown for their form and habit, but virtually exclusively for their blooms. It follows therefore, that while we may be interested in enhancing the floral effect of the Crape Myrtle by means of pruning branches short, care must be taken not to ruin the form of the tree in the process. How can this be achieved?

*Firstly, branches should not be cut back too radically. It’s best to clip up to a third of the length of the branches. The clipping prevents the limb from shooting on as a long thin branch, encourages lateral growth and as mentioned before, superior blooms. On the other hand, cutting too far down on the branch, is liable to adversely affect the shape of the tree, particularly in the winter when it is bare of leaves.

*It is not necessary to prune/shorten each and every branch. As with all trees, removing excessive material at one session is liable to damage the energy level of the plant, thereby affecting its overall vitality and rendering it more susceptible to pests and disease.

*As pruning is carried out in the winter when the tree is out of leaf, it’s quite easy to discern where the previous season’s pruning cuts were made. It’s possible therefore to alternate between cutting limbs that were untouched a year ago, while leaving alone those that were pruned. In this way, a balance is struck between flower production on the one hand and the general health of the tree on the other.

*Lagerstroemia indica tends to sprout new shoots from its base but it’s not necessary to religiously remove each one. On the contrary, as the trunks are relatively thin in diameter, Crape Myrtle actually looks better grown as a multi-stemmed tree. Furthermore, as persistent pruning tends to weaken branches in the long run, younger stems can be earmarked to replace older ones which over the years have lost their vitality.

Potassium – How to Apply This Essential Nutrient To Your Garden Plants

Potassium is one of the three macro elements essential to plant growth and development. The macro elements, which together with potassium include nitrogen and phosphorus, are so called, not because they are more important than the micro elements, but rather because they are needed and consumed in large quantities. It is important to take note of three points here.

*Firstly, by being required and consumed in large amounts, available potassium is liable to be lacking in certain circumstances.

*On the other hand, high concentrations of potassium are liable to reduce the availability to the plants’ roots of micro elements such as magnesium. This element by playing an essential role in photosynthesis is no less vital to plant physiology than potassium itself.

*Thirdly, while potassium is easily leached from light sandy soils, it becomes attached to mineral clay particles in heavy soils, by virtue of its positive electrical charge. This means that uncontrolled applications of potassium fertilizer, can significantly increase soil salinity, the gravity of which should not be underestimated both for the health of the plants in the short term, and the soil in the long term.

The question for us gardeners therefore is how to ensure adequate supplies of potassium without affecting either the chemical balance of the soil or its salinity. The safest method is to feed the plants by regularly adding well-rotted organic matter to the soil like compost or commercially prepared humus. Compost as it breaks down to a mineral state, slowly releases nutrients in the soil, including potassium. Furthermore by improving the soil’s aeration and expanding its micro biotic activity, mineral uptake of all essential elements is enhanced.

Before planting a new garden, carrying out a soil test will reveal the concentrations of potassium present. If these are below what’s required, then adding compost may not by itself be enough to cover the shortfall. When I set up a garden I normally add slow release fertilizer to the compost and then rely exclusively on organic matter after a year or so. Slow release fertilizer is more expensive than readily soluble fertilizer, but much safer and less environmentally damaging.

Lawns under an intensive growing regime may also require additions of potassium in chemical form. From the point of view of root development, it is important to fertilize both in the autumn in Mediterranean climates, and in the early spring. Again I recommend the use of slow release fertilizer. Make sure, particularly in the autumn that the potassium value, marked by the chemical symbol K, is high relative to the N for nitrogen, and the P for phosphorus.

Flower Bed Designs – The Benefits Of Choosing Plants From One Botanical Family

When thinking about a scheme for flower beds, the tendency is to concentrate almost exclusively on the question of color. While color is obviously important and undoubtedly the primary category to consider, it is not always recognized that flowers posses other visual properties such as form, shape, size and texture. Whether you like it or not, these characteristics affect the overall look of the composition, either for good or for ill.

Personal taste aside, genuinely satisfactory results can only be achieved if the plants go together to form a harmonious composition. One rule of design that is particularly relevant to flower beds is the need for unity or uniformity. When it comes to color, it is obvious that just throwing any color in at random is liable to create a mess.

Less obvious, but important nevertheless, is the need to choose plants whose flower shape size or texture are in keeping with each other. To take an extreme example, let’s say the different species in the bed all have flowers that are varying shades of red. Such a scheme would be termed monochromatic, and would clearly posses the quality of unity, at least as it relates to color. However, if some of the flowers were tiny while others huge, with any number of shapes and forms in between, would the effect still remain harmonious?

This is where choosing the bedding plants from one botanical family can come to your assistance. Due to the fact that flower structure is the criterion by which plants are sorted botanically, it follows that plants that are closely related are most likely to have flowers that are visually similar. The best example is provided by daisy flowers, which belong to the Asteraceae family. (Formerly Compositae)

There are a great number and variety of herbaceous flowering plants belonging to the daisy family, ranging from small shrubby types, plants with tall flower storks and ground hugging species. There is also a wide range of flower color within the family, but the common denominator is the flower shape and size common to almost all genera. An understanding of this property allows for greater unity to be achieved, balancing the variety that is created by the different plant types. Here are some examples which are suitable for dry Mediterranean climates.

Small shrubs: There are a number of species of Chrysanthemum such as C. frutescens that grow to about 50 cm and posses lovely fine textured foliage in addition to their daisy flowers. A similar plant with yellow flowers is Euryops pectinatus. These types are useful for “holding” an herbaceous bed, at a time when some flowering plants are passed their best.

Tall Flowers: Solidago, Achillea and Coreopsis are good placed towards the back of the border. The fine foliage texture of Achillea or Yarrow, associates well shrubby Chrysanthemums and foliage plants from other families such as Asparagus. A number of species of Felicia can fill an intermediate role between low growing plants and taller ones.

Low growing plants: There are a large number to choose from such as the ground hugging Gazania, the dependable African Daisy, (Arctotis) Bidens, the delicate Brachicome and the sprawling Osteospermum.

Junipers and Ice Plants - A Phenomenal Plant Combination

Those of us who garden in arid climates need to be open to ideas for planting designs that look great on the one hand, and that can be maintained on a water conserving budget on the other. One such combination involves the massing of the Ice Plant (Lampranthus spectabilis) as a ground cover, with different varieties of Juniper; ranging from low growing types to landscaping shrubs and bushes of differing sizes form and shade. A part of the garden so set up should also be relatively easy to maintain, although some knowledge as to care and cultivation is necessary.

Let’s take as an example, a fairly sizable area of 75 square meters. A carpet of Ice Plant in flower, covering say some 50 meters square, creates an effect that is probably unmatched in gardening. For the flowers in addition to the color they provide, have a unique textural quality that can best be described as a sort of wave. As Lampranthus cannot sustain traffic, some type of path for access should be laid down. There is no need to incur great expense as large flagstones set in the ground should suffice.

As the Ice Plant blooms for a relatively brief period in the spring, it’s important to consider the visual effect throughout the year. I think it associates so well with Junipers firstly because of the compatible leaf textures between the two, and also due to the foliage color of the Ice Plant, which resembles the shade of green, typical of so many Junipers. Of course color variety and emphasis can be supplied by the careful placing of Juniper shrub varieties which have gold, bluish green or silvery grey foliage.

As the composition will lack flower color through much of the year, annual or perennial flowers can be planted in a number of decorative pots, placed strategically amongst, and billowing out of the carpet of ground cover. To maintain a controlled, low consumption irrigation regime, it is essential to provide a separate line for the flowers and for the rest of the plants. For example, in a Mediterranean climate, Lampranthus and Juniper can be grown on less than 200mm of irrigation water per year, while annual flowers require some 1000mm per year. (1000 liters per square meter per year). For this reason avoid planting flowers in the ground.

Care and cultivation

In order to bloom, Ice Plants must be grown in full sun. Flowers simply do not open in any degree of shade whatsoever. In hot climates though, Junipers will do better grown in light shade. This is best supplied by trees which have a fairly open form, as heavy shade is to be avoided. Careful pruning to establish an open habit may have to be carried out for this purpose. Furthermore, as Junipers are evergreen plants, deciduous tree species should be considered, in order to create some seasonal change, movement and dynamism.

Good drainage is the primary precondition for successfully growing these plants. To enhance soil aeration, copious quantities of compost should be added to the soil, and deep, infrequent watering is to be preferred to frequent shallow watering. Lampranthus, as a succulent does not need to be watered at all during the summer, which as it happens, is its dormant season. It is preferable therefore to plant it in the autumn and winter as opposed to the spring and summer.

Finally, while Junipers require little and in some cases no pruning, Ice Plants do need some care and attention. To avoid open and leggy growth, cut back the flowers when about 75% have been spent. Do not wait for the last flowers to wither before doing so.
Take note that the plants do not rejuvenate from old wood, so pruning, which can be carried out by garden shears or a hedge trimmer, should only extend to soft, herbaceous growth.

Caring for Junipers in Mediterranean Gardens – The Most Important Points To Remember

Junipers are often thought of and with good reason, as mainstays of Mediterranean and dry climate gardens. The different varieties provide solutions to many design issues such as the need for screening, ground cover, and vertical accent. They are hardy to cold and drought, remain largely unscathed by pests and disease and require minimal maintenance. Yet disappointment with Junipers is not uncommon, and most of it can be traced to mistakes people make in their care and cultivation.

Planting

A serious error is to plant Junipers too close to each other. Junipers ought to be planted at a distance equal to the width of the plants in maturity, so that if the width of a shrub species reaches up to 2 meters; then that should be the planting distance between the plants. The trouble is that due to their initial high cost, they are often bought as small specimens. Added to that is the fact that they grow slowly as well and so if planted at the recommended distances, large gaps are left between the plants.

It is sometimes suggested to over-plant, and then thin out the excess specimens when the spaces begin to close. This is now known to be mistaken as the roots of separate plants fuse with each other, thus rendering removal of some of them impossible without inflicting serious wounds on the roots. Another solution is to plant herbaceous plants between the young Junipers. I recommend against this practice, as from my experience, the herbaceous material, whether annual or perennial, tends to retard the development of the Junipers.

Undoubtedly, the best alternative is to spread a decent layer of organic mulch between the plants. Visually the effect will be ordered and neat, if unspectacular. However the real benefit is in the improved growing conditions provided to the Junipers, particularly in reducing the temperature at the soil surface, which when exposed to direct sunlight, can reach 50c in hot summer climates. The mulch will also help of course in controlling weeds.

Soil conditions and watering

While Junipers are not fussy in their demands, good drainage is absolutely essential for their growth and development. In waterlogged soils they are liable to rot and die. It is for this reason, that incorporating plenty of well-rotted compost into the soil, say 20 liters per meter square, is highly desirable, as the air/moisture balance is thus improved, amongst other benefits. Similarly, watering, especially in heavy clay soils should be spread out to allow the soil to dry out to some extent, again in order to improve the aeration of the soil. Deep occasional soakings are to be preferred to frequent but light applications.

Feeding

Junipers are sensitive to excessive amounts of chemical fertilizer, especially to nitrogen, in the vicinity of their root systems. It is best to avoid chemicals altogether and feed the plants with compost and other organic supplements. Always take care, not to dig in the compost, as this may injure the roots.

Pruning

Many varieties, particularly the sculptural ones, should hardly be pruned at all. It is desirable though to clip the tips of the ground cover types in order to encourage bushiness and to avoid lank and leggy growth. In general, new growth does not appear from cuts made too far into old wood. If the branches of shrub species are to be removed, they should be pruned back to their base, care being taken that the cut is clean and not too large.