Lawn care In A Dry Climate – Rejuvenating A Worn Out Grass

Spring is the ideal season for bringing back to life a lawn in a home garden that has seen better days. We all know what a worn out lawn looks like; bare patches, tons of weeds and week yellowish growth. These of course are the symptoms of a struggling lawn. An understanding of the causes on the other hand, improves the chances of successfully revamping the lawn, and ensuring that the same pattern does not repeat itself in the future.

The reasons why a grass degenerates can be boiled down to two main factors. The first involves general care and maintenance. In a dry climate garden for instance, with long, hot summers, correct irrigation practices are crucial, as is regular mowing and at the correct height. Other tasks such as feeding and de-thatching, contribute to the success or otherwise of the lawn.

If a lawn has been poor from day one, then it’s reasonable to assume that the soil was not adequately prepared prior to turfing. Assuming however that a grass did grow satisfactorily at one time, but has since declined, and assuming as well that the routine maintenance tasks are in order, then the reason behind its decline can probably be traced to compaction at the topsoil level, caused by the impact of excessive foot traffic on a relatively small area. Compaction means that the air spaces in the soil have been destroyed, resulting in inadequate water infiltration, and an insufficient exchange of gasses. (i.e. not enough oxygen available for the roots to breathe)

In many cases, topsoil compaction can be relieved by the actions of a de-thatching or scarifying machine, that not only removes the thatch (the build–up of organic matter that decomposes very slowly) but also digs into the soil to a depth of one or two cm, thereby breaking–up the hardened, impervious top layer of the soil. The ideal time for this is the middle of spring, as the grass recovers quicker in the warmer weather. It is possible to scarify in the summer, but there is the risk of damage to the grass stems from the higher levels of radiation at that season.

Scarifying is most effective on perennial grass varieties such as Bermuda, Zoysia or Paspalum that grow by means of rhizomes. (Stems that grow horizontally below the ground) These tend to develop deep and extensive root systems, allowing them to recover from the effects of the scarifying. Conversely, great care must be taken with grasses that have shallower root systems and spread by stolons. (Stems that grow horizontally, above the ground)

Shortly after the de-thatching/scarifying, the lawn should be fed with a balanced fertilizer, containing the three macro-elements; nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. For environmental reasons, readily soluble fertilizers such as Ammonium Sulfate are not recommended today, but excellent results can be obtained from slow or controlled release fertilizers.

Garden Design - Which Bedding Plants Go Best With Junipers?

While bedding plants are primarily chosen as color elements in the garden, it is worthwhile remembering that they possess other characteristics that inevitably affect, positively or negatively, the overall nature of the design. One cannot ignore their foliage texture and color, or their size, shape and form.

Bedding plants are rarely grown in isolation from other plant types, but rather, in association with them, such as in the foreground to shrubs, bushes and trees. If the latter are so chosen as to form a definite and clear motif, then the bedding plants ought to complement them in stylistic terms.

Junipers are one such important plant type that if planted in groups create a definite mood in the garden. How then can one choose bedding plants, whether annuals or herbaceous perennials, so that they strengthen the composition established by the Junipers and not detract from it?

Junipers, as conifers belonging to the cypress family, establish a clear Mediterranean feel to the garden. The bedding plants that associate with them most effectively are those that possess small flowers and leaves that are narrow and often or not pale green or bluish-grey in color. Many plants belonging to the daisy family (Asteraceae) fit the bill perfectly. Examples include, Gazania, Arctotis, Santolina, Osteospermum and Asteriscus. Ice plants such as Lampranthus or Drosanthemum, if planted on mass as ground covers, can create a stunning combination with different varieties of Juniper.

A bed of herbs, planted close to, and in visual contact with a group of Junipers is a feature worth considering. Most herbs; oregano, thyme, sage etc, are of Mediterranean origin and so go together splendidly. Herbaceous plants of contrasting foliage color are a further possibility, providing the leaf size and texture is reasonably fine. The purple-leaved varieties of Joyweed (Alternanthera) for instance, contrast spectacularly with the glaucous foliage of many Junipers.

Designing with plants is very much a case of knowing what not to include in the garden composition. Just as palm trees look totally incongruous with junipers, so do bedding plants of tropical origin appear out of place. Plants like Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia) or Canna, spectacular as they may be, simply do not go with them. Roses from my experience do not sit comfortably near Junipers either, but can be acceptable in visual contact with them, if planted in a separate bed. I also have my doubts about the suitability of planting ornamental grasses with junipers, although this may simply be a matter of personal taste on my part.

Pruning Herbs, Herbaceous Perennials And Small Shrubs In The Spring

A commonly held view amongst many home gardeners is that perennial flowering plants in general and herbal plants in particular, require relatively low maintenance, certainly as compared to annual bedding plants. This view is quite mistaken. Herbs such Rosemary or Lavender, Sage and Thyme actually need frequent and regular attention, as do many if not most herbaceous perennials. The principle task involved is pruning. To prevent such plants degenerating into an untidy sprawling mess, regular clipping is required. This is no truer than in the spring, when failure to prune on time often results in the plant not succeeding as a worthwhile garden specimen.

Pruning is important in order to neutralize the repressive properties exercised by leading buds on a branch or a stem, over those buds that are lower down on the stem. This phenomenon, known as apical dominance, allows a stem to push forward or upward. It is how a tree grows to a great extent. The result as far as sub-shrubs, herbs and perennials are concerned, is very often a top-heavy growth habit, meaning that the lower parts of the plant become bald, bare and unattractive over time. Therefore, pruning encourages lateral growth and as a consequence, the plant looks more compact and dense, as opposed to increasingly lank and leggy.

Why though is timing so important? What’s wrong with the plant getting a bit long and thin, if it can be rejuvenated at some point by being cut down? The trouble is that many plants, especially herb species belonging to the Lamiaceae botanical family, (to which the majority belong) do not sprout new growth from old wood. That is why plants like Lavender, Artemisia, Melissa or Oregano look so great when young, and so disappointing within a year or so.

The solution then is to prune the plants back at the onset of spring, which is the principle growing season for most of these species. It is important to remember not to cut into woody parts of the plant, but rather only at herbaceous, growing points. It is best not to hold on to plants that have got “passed it”. They should be removed and replaced. There are some exceptions though. Rosemary, which cannot be cut back successfully, develops an interestingly, gnarled, twisted bark in age. Old plants can be therefore be limbed up into mini trees about a meter high, (3 feet) making for an unusual vertical accent at such a height.

With regard to spring-flowering perennials, there is always the temptation to wait until the last flower has withered before pruning back the plants. This is often a
mistake as for many species, flowering constitutes the last spurt of growth before the relative dormancy of the summer. The consequence is exactly what ought to be avoided – namely the plant comes long, leggy and unbecoming. The best example of this is the ice plant (Lampranthus) from South Africa. The solution is to trim the plants after about 75% of the blooms have withered, thereby “giving-up” on the remaining 25%. This encourages lateral, vegetative growth that allows the plant to fill-out during the month or so before the onset of summer.

Pruning Trees And Shrubs In The Spring – What You Should Be Pruning And What You Should Not

Pruning is one of the most critical gardening tasks, determining whether the garden plants will develop satisfactorily or not. Carried out correctly and at the right time, the trees grow in the desired manner, the bushes look lush, green and healthy, and the flowering plants brighten up the garden with color. Performed at the wrong time, serious, long-term damage can be inflicted on the trees, the shrubs and bushes are liable to develop an open, “leggy” habit and many herb plants and sub-shrubs, while green on top, become bald and unattractive below. In a nutshell, when it comes to pruning, timing is crucial.

Deciduous trees and landscape shrubs

The one group of plants that should not be pruned in the spring is plants that naturally drop their leaves during the winter. In the dormant season, carbohydrates and mineral nutrients dissolved in sap are stored in the plant’s tissues. At the onset of spring, the sap rises in the plant and is carried to all its growing points. Pruning cuts carried out at the time when this process is occurring, causes the sap to “bleed” out of the plant, thus causing it to lose vital energy sources. Arboriculturists today, believe that maintaining a positive energy level in a tree, is the single most crucial factor for its long-term health and survival. Deciduous plants should of course, have been pruned in the winter.

Evergreen trees and shrubs

This is precisely the best time of year to prune evergreens and plants sensitive to cold, which should not have been touched during the winter. As the spring, especially in Mediterranean and hot, dry, summer climates, is the principle growing season for most garden plants, it is best to direct the new growth just as it is beginning. Conversely, pruning tissue a month or two after it has sprouted means that the tree or shrub has expended vital energy, for no purpose.

Flowering Shrubs

Despite the above, care must be taken when it comes to flowering shrubs. Amongst deciduous species, one has to know whether the flower buds develop on the current year’s spring growth, or on that of the previous year. Not a few home gardeners are disappointed with their lilac bushes for instance, which “never seem to flower”, the reason being that they dutifully prune the shrubs in the winter, thereby removing the flower buds in the process! Such plants, which include some shrub and species roses, should be lightly pruned after the flowers have withered.

Flowering evergreen shrubs rarely if ever belong to this category, and so for the most part should be pruned in the spring. Pruning shrubs is largely a matter of removing old and dead growth, and shortening branches by between a third and a half, in order to encourage dense and compact growth.

Tree pruning on the other hand is all about careful shaping so that the growth pattern appears as natural as possible. This should apply in my opinion as much to fruit trees as to ornamentals in a private garden. While farmers cut back branches in order to extract more fruit from the tree, and also to make the picking more economically efficient, the tree in a garden has amongst other purposes, a vital aesthetic role to play and should be treated as such. Its long term health should never be forgotten either.

Chinese Hibiscus And Family – Excellent Landscaping Shrubs For Gardens In Mild Winter Climates

Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, which is known by a number of common names of which “Chinese Hibiscus is just one, is one of the mainstay landscaping bushes in Mediterranean and dry climate gardens, despite originating from sub-tropical habitats. Its main benefit as a shrub is the showy, lush blooms that cover the plant throughout the summer.

Chinese Hibiscus is ideal for screening purposes and as an informal hedge. Its somewhat course leaf texture, renders it unsuitable as a sheared, trimmed hedge or for combining with fine-leaved shrubs. However, it has few rivals as an easy-to grow, flowering bush. Occasional pinching and an annual prune, ensure a reasonably dense and compact growth habit. It flowers more profusely with occasional, deep watering than on a shallow but frequent irrigation regime. Hibiscus rosa-sinensis can recover in the spring from a winter of light frosts, but it is best grown in frost-free climates.

There are now a number of varieties available, the most common being the ones that sport bright red blooms. However, there are those that flower white, pink, and various shades apricot. In terms of color design, Chinese Hibiscus can therefore be included successfully in a “warm” color theme. Growing to about 4 meters (12 feet) it can also be easily limbed up and shaped into a small tree. A vertical accent at this height is not always readily available to the gardener.

Other species

Hibiscus syriacus, from the Eastern Mediterranean, commonly known as The Rose of Sharon, is a deciduous shrub reaching about 3 meters in height. (9 feet) It looks better in a Mediterranean plant grouping, such as with Rosemary, Lavender, Pomegranate or Pistachio, than mixed with Chinese Hibiscus. The most common flower color is a shade of lilac-blue, although white-flowered varieties can also be found.

Hibiscus species belong to the Malvaceae botanical family, a fact of some significance, as large, showy flowers of very similar size and shape are typical of the various genera that belong to the family. From a design angle, it is beneficial that different plants have at least some anatomical and morphological features in common; in this case, the flower shape acting as a unifying factor. For example, the purple flowers of Alyogyne huegelii, echo in form, Hibiscus flowers, as do the blooms on a really fascinating plant, Alyogyne hakeafolia. This latter species, of very distinctive leaf texture, associates brilliantly with many shrubs belonging to the Proteaceae family, such as Hakea, Banksia and Grevillea.

Landscaping With Bedding Plants – Not Just A Question Of Color

Bedding plants, whether annual or perennial, are generally planted to supply color to the garden. This role is most effective when the bedding plants are chosen as part of a specific color scheme, as opposed to being “peppered” around the garden without any clear design purpose. Like all plants however, they also have shape, form and texture. When these properties are taken into account and acted upon, the bedding plants become, as they properly should, an integral and organic part of the overall garden composition.

A case in point would be herbaceous plants that have a mounding or cushion growth habit. A bed or border largely comprising of such plants, with other form types complementing or contrasting with them, creates a clear compositional direction. Cushion plants grow naturally in arid regions, and so the garden varieties are particularly suitable to Mediterranean and dry climate gardens.

A few fine examples are some perennial carnations, (Dianthus) Thrift, (Armeria) the gorgeous Cranesbill, (Erodium reichardii) and the very delicate Goniolimon tartaricum. All have small, dainty flowers, most commonly in varying shades of pink. Certain species of the succulent Sedum, while not grown for their blooms, enhance the low-growing, mounding form of these plants. Prostrate ornamental grasses like Festuca glauca strengthen the cushion motif. Cushion plants are suitable at the front of borders, preferably in small, intimate spaces as opposed to large ones, where they are liable to “get lost”. They are excellent niche plants.

No plant, like an ingredient in a recipe, is as good as the context in which it grows, bedding plants being no exception. Therefore, the question that should always be asked is; how do cushion plants combine with plants of differing form and shape? One rule of thumb should apply. The contrast plants, although differing in some way from the mounding plants ought to have some characteristics in common with them. The common denominator should be delicacy in texture form or size.

For instance, the lily turfs, (Liriope and Ophiopogon) have a vertical, upright habit, yet are low in height, and delicate in texture. Asteriscus maritimus, while sporting small, daisy flowers also grows in a mounding fashion. The Sea Lavender (Limonium perezii) on the other hand, has a rather course leaf texture, which does not go well with fine-textured plants. However, belonging to the same botanical family as both Armeria and Goniolimon, (Plumbaginaceae) the flowers of all the species are very similar. So placed perhaps at the back of the border, to hide its leaves, Sea Lavender’s blooms add a subtle variation on a theme to the composition.

In a Mediterranean style garden, the cushion plants in the border associate appropriately with such trees as Olive, Cypress, and Pomegranate. They also are in harmony with many of the grey and silver leaved plants that are a typical part of such gardens. The motif established by the trees, strengthened by shrubs like Juniper and herbs such as Lavender and Artemisia, is completed on the ground plane by the cushion plants. It is worth remembering that while “variety is the spice of life” a garden composition cannot work without the different plant types, “talking the same language”.

Compost – The 4 Reasons Why It Should Be Well-Rotted Before Use

Well-rotted compost or humus is a condition whereby the organic matter from which it is composed, whether that be manure from the farm, or weeds and dead leaves, has broken down to form a dark brown crumbly mass. It should have a nice, earthy smell and in no way possess an unpleasant odor. If it does so, then that is the surest sign that it is has not been thoroughly composted and is not ready for use. Why then is it so important not to spread the compost on the garden soil until it is ready?

*Compost that smells badly contains a high percentage of anaerobic microorganisms; that is organisms that do not require oxygen for respiration. Many of these are liable to be pathogenic, and therefore be potentially damaging to the garden plants.

*Organic matter is satisfactorily broken down to compost by aerobic microbes that use the carbon present for energy and the nitrogen, amongst other elements, for proteins. When much of the matter is still in a non-humic condition, these organisms will take up whatever nitrogen is available in the soil, causing a nitrogen deficiency in the plants, at least temporarily.

*A compost pile in its most active state, reaches a temperature of some 60c. This is caused by the collective body temperature of the millions of microbes working away to decompose the organic matter. Evidence of such is the steam that rises out of an active compost pile. In such heat, the majority of weed seeds and other pest organisms are destroyed. However, compost that has not been thoroughly processed in this way is liable to contain such organisms, much to the chagrin of the gardener, as noxious weeds infest the garden at some point.

*Fresh manure or smelly bags of commercial compost contain excessive salt levels. Increasing soil salinity is a major problem for farmers and gardeners alike, particularly in dry climates, for beyond a certain point of salinity, the soil can be virtually destroyed as a habitat capable of supporting a rich and varied flora. In fact, the main reason for spreading compost in the first place is to improve and develop the soil, the supplying of nutrients to the plants being an important but secondary reason.

In conclusion, one should never be tempted to spread fresh manure in the garden. If commercial compost smells unpleasantly, it has been pushed out to the market too early, which may be fine for the cash flow of the companies marketing the product, but bad for the garden. Similarly, homemade compost should not be used until thoroughly decomposed to the humus condition, as described above.

Soil pH – Growing Plants In Alkaline Soils

Soils in dry climates are typically alkaline, meaning that they contain a high percentage of lime (calcium carbonate). The main problem associated with alkaline soils is that certain nutrients essential for plant growth, particularly iron and zinc, become unavailable to the plants.

A wide range of garden plants grow quite satisfactorily in mildly alkaline soils, with just a small minority of acid-loving plants being unsuitable; camellias, rhododenrons and azaleas being the most widely known examples. Plant growth and development is generally affected though in strongly alkaline conditions, as the plants fail to take up nutrients.

Acidity and alkalinity are measured according to a scale known as pH. Ranging from 1 - 14, a pH of 7 is neutral, figures lower than 7 indicate acidity, while those higher than 7 indicate alkalinity. The vast majority of plants grow most comfortably within a pH range of 6.5 – 7.5, or between mildly acidic to mildly alkaline. In dry climates, not only do the soils tend to be alkaline, but the water as well. Although a pH round about 8.0 is very common, there is no shortage of plants to choose from. As the pH rises beyond that however, measures need to be taken to reduce the soils alkalinity, and under conditions where the pH reaches 8.5, virtually no plants are able to grow properly.

It is best therefore to undertake a soil test in order to ascertain the soil’s pH. Home kits are good enough to get a general impression, but in problematical circumstances, a laboratory test is more appropriate. In mild conditions, consistently adding well-rotted compost to the soil is often sufficient to lower the pH to the point that the garden plants as a whole will benefit. With higher alkalinity though, where the pH reaches say 8.2, it may be necessary to add a sulfur-based amendment. As the recommended rate at which the sulfur is applied differs according to the existing soil pH, it follows that this must never be done without reference to the findings of the soil test.

An alkaline level registering 8.5 on the pH scale means that the soil has become a sodic soil, referring to the high percentage of sodium present. In such conditions, the soil’s crumbly structure breaks down, depleting it of oxygen. A sodic soil is effectively a destroyed one, and drastic steps have to be taken, usually involving the use of gypsum (calcium sulfate) and flooding, to leach the soil of excessive salts. This work should only be attempted in consultation with, and preferably by a soil expert.

Growing plants in alkaline soils is principally a case of correctly managing the soil on a long-term basis, and avoiding the few species that require acidic conditions. Probably the most critical factor in regulating alkalinity is to reduce the soil’s salinity. Routine gardening tasks and practices should always be carried out with this in mind. Compost, as long as it is well rotted, should be preferred to chemical fertilizers, and irrigation practices should avoid regimes based on small quantities applied frequently, (which contributes to the salt build-up) and opt instead for deep, occasional waterings, which among other benefits, periodically leach out the excessive salts.

Pest Control – Putting Integrated Pest Management Into Perspective

Perhaps a couple of generations ago, the most widespread method of dealing with the pests and disease that affect garden plants, was to apply some chemical poison to “deal with“ the pathogen. Today, Integrated Pest Management, or IPM, is the approach to pest control that is almost universally accepted by both academics, and serious landscape professionals. The essence of IPM can be boiled down to two basic principles from which all other considerations flow.

The essence of IPM

The first is that plant resistance to pathogens cannot be separated from the state of the habitat in which the plant grows. A garden should resemble as far as possible a natural eco-system where the vast number and variety of organisms, ranging from microbes, fungi and insects, to birds, lizards and small mammals, balance each others population levels, to the point where pest or disease organisms are not eliminated, but kept under numerical control. The second cardinal principle of IPM is that the health and vitality of the plants is an integral part of the habitual horticultural practices adopted in the garden.

Aiming towards a balanced eco system

Inducing a massive flora and fauna to develop is a case of knowing what to do and perhaps more critically, not what to do. The greater the use of pesticides, the less the quantity of organisms and the range of species. Similarly, the more chemical fertilizers are applied as the chosen method of feeding, the fewer earthworms and other essential organisms will be able to survive in the soil.

IPM, regards the health of the soil, as a major priority in this holistic approach to pest management. Organic matter in the form of compost or humus should be consistently added to the soil, not simply to supply nutrients to the plants, but to improve its aeration and increase the biomass present. (i.e. the number and variety of organisms)

Irrigation and other gardening tasks.

Here are some examples of how seemingly unrelated gardening jobs, affect the degree to which plant pathogens can be controlled.

*Sprinkling lawns in the early evening creates optimal conditions for the development of harmful fungi. Sprinkling should be carried out as close to dawn as possible so that the early morning sun will reduce the air’s humidity level.

*The frequency by which lawns are watered also has consequences for pest control. Deep but infrequent watering, (where feasible) encourages roots to grow further down into the soil, thereby increasing their resistance to drought and disease, while reducing the population of pests such as Mole Crickets, which thrive in constantly moist conditions.

*On the other hand, some pest organisms, particularly spider mites prefer dry conditions. Occasional washing down of the plants’ foliage with a garden hose can go a long way in controlling them. Remember though, that the increased humidity that is detrimental to spider mites is beneficial to fungi such as rust, black spot and powdery mildew. Again, the hosing down should be carried out in the early morning. Similarly, fungal infestations occur when there is insufficient movement of air between the plants. Therefore, the distance at which shrubs such as roses are planted from each other is important for reducing such outbreaks.

*Prevention is always better than cure. Ornamental and edible species that are known to be highly vulnerable to attack should not be planted in the first place. An IPM approach to pest control places a particular plant’s susceptibility as a criterion for choosing it, as much as a plant’s suitability for a climate or for shade and sun.

IPM and organic gardening

Clearly, Integrated Pest Management shares a lot of common ground with organic gardening. They are not identical positions however. IPM adopts an essentially pragmatic approach to pest management, which while championing the reduced use of pesticides (including weed killers) to a minimum, does not exclude their application entirely.

Organic gardening on the other hand, rejects the use of pesticides in any circumstance, no matter how compelling the professional reasons for doing so. The organic approach, in so far that it is absolutely “rejectionist”, is therefore moral in nature. Considering that all poisons are tested on laboratory animals as a condition for acquiring a license for marketing the products, the position so adopted is completely understandable.

Choosing Plants For A School Garden – Guidelines For Getting It Right

There is hardly a plant in the world that someone somewhere cannot object to for any particular reason. Plants can be poisonous, viciously thorny or allergenic. Many attract bees or encourage unwanted critters to lurk in the undergrowth.

A head teacher rightly concerned for the safety of the children and staff, and perhaps visualizing a nasty lawsuit in the future, might be forgiven for nagging the maintenance staff to remove much existing plant material, and discouraging the further development of a garden.

This would be a great pity, as not only is a garden in itself so beneficial to a school, but contains within it, educational potential of unlimited and perhaps undervalued scope. On what then should the school authorities focus their concern, and on what matters can they afford to exercise a more lenient approach?

Poisonous and allergenic plants

A clear distinction should be drawn between the two. Some people are allergic to certain plant species such as Olive and Cypress trees, while a tiny minority can be sensitive to grasses. Clearly to prohibit a plant on such grounds would be effectively to exclude all plants from the school grounds. Hay fever after all is caused by pollen.

Poisonous plants are another matter. These are plants whose toxic levels are so high that they really do threaten the health and in some cases the life of anyone who ingests them. Nerium Oleander is a case in point, and should be absolutely banned from the school. An inventory of existing and proposed species should be gathered and examined, and poisonous plants removed.

Spiky and thorny plants

This where common sense has to come into play. To exclude all thorny plants could seriously deplete the range of species available. Many excellent garden mainstays, such as roses for instance, possess thorns. However, there are some plants that are so dangerous, especially if planted by paths and narrow entryways, that they amount to the proverbial accident waiting to happen. The worst case is the date palm, Phoenix dactilifera. I personally know a five-year-old boy suffering more than one year on from a stab wound he received from a date palm leaf. Other examples include the horrific spikes of Yucca and the vicious thorns of Bougainvillea. Just think what might happen if a child runs into a Yucca bush, sitting nicely at eye level.

Plants that attract wild life

It is quite likely that a concerned parent, visiting the school on open day, might point out that a certain plant attracts bees and is therefore dangerous. It should be remembered though, that a large number of flowering plants attract bees, anxious to lap up the nectar contained in the flowers. Taken to its logical conclusion, virtually all plants that bloom would be banned.

In fact, the garden should be attracting to it as much wild life as possible. This is mainly achieved by desisting from applying pesticides and chemical fertilizers. In addition, certain plants can be chosen precisely because they attract organisms like butterflies and hummingbirds. The Pineapple Guava, Feijoa sellowiana, is a fine choice in this regard, because not only is it a lovely ornamental shrub with edible fruit, but it attracts hummingbirds as well.

Trees shrubs and flowers

It is unnecessary to reject deciduous trees and shrubs on the grounds that they will litter the pavement. There is not a tree in the world that does not litter to some extent, and some evergreens are actually more of a nuisance. A deciduous tree is an essential educational element in the school grounds, as its anatomical changes through the year can be monitored and recorded by the schoolchildren.

Finally, for practical purposes, flower color is best provided by trees and shrubs, with annual flowers and possibly perennials too, excluded in favor of herbs and vegetable beds. Perhaps these are not as pretty as a flowerbed, but the type of horticulture involved is less consumerist and more sustainable in a school situation, and possibly more educational, in the wider meaning of the term as well.

Garden Care And Maintenance - Feeding Garden Plants In The Spring

In dry, Mediterranean and hot summer regions, it makes a good deal of sense to get the job of feeding the garden plants completed at the very onset of spring or even at the end of winter. There are two compelling reasons for this.

The first one is that spring is the season when the gardener has so many tasks that simply have to be carried out, such as pruning and clipping evergreen shrubs, weeding and planting, that it’s best logistically, that the feeding be well out the way before the onslaught starts.

The second reason applies to the use of bulky organic materials such as compost and commercially produced humus. The plants, it should be recalled, take up the nutrients essential to their growth and development in the form of dissolved mineral salts. As it takes a certain period of time for compost to break down from an organic to a mineral state, and considering that the spring is the principle growing season in these climates, it is desirable that the nutrients, like nitrogen and phosphorous, be readily available to the plants at exactly the time when they need them most.

Chemical fertilizer or compost?

One of the perennial and long-standing dilemmas suffered by many home gardeners is whether to feed their plants with chemical fertilizers, or whether to apply compost to the soil. Chemical fertilizers are the cheapest and most efficient method of supplying immediately accessible nutrients to the plants. The trouble is that their excessive and prolonged use, has amongst other drawbacks, detrimental consequences for the long-term health of the soil.

Spreading bags of compost on the other hand, may be laborious and relatively expensive, but if carried out on a regular basis – once in the spring and again in the autumn – causes the soil’s quality as a living habitat to improve progressively. Numerous benefits accrue as a result in such matters as an improved air/moisture balance, reduced pests and disease infestations, and a balanced supply of nutrients released in a controlled fashion to the garden plants.

For beds that have yet to be planted, compost should be incorporated at the rate of at least 20-30 liters per square meter of soil. Amongst established plants however, a rate of 5 liters per square meter is a more realistic figure. Care should be taken not to injure the roots of trees and shrubs by digging with garden forks or similar instruments. It is best therefore to avoid such tools and simply cultivate the soil lightly around the plants.

If a soil test reveals chronic nutrient deficiencies, particularly in the three macro-elements, nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, then additional amendments to compost should be considered. These can supplied by such products as commercially prepared humus, based on worm castes, and organic or controlled released fertilizers, that while being more expensive than readily soluble fertilizer, need only be applied twice a year, and a far less hazardous to the biological and chemical balance of the soil.

Feeding lawns

In hot, dry summer regions, lawn varieties are usually perennial types like Bermuda grass or species of Zoysia. It is possible to feed them at the beginning of spring, but it is preferable to wait until dethatching has been completed in the middle of spring.

Trumpet Vines – Spectacular Flowering Plants For A Mediterranean Landscape Garden

The name “Trumpet Vine” is used for a number of climbing plants, landscape shrubs and small trees that possess prominent yellow and orange toned flowers whose shape resembles that of a flared trumpet bell. They belong to the Bignoniaceae botanical family, and although mostly of sub-tropical origin, can be grown on a tight water budget, and are hardy to light frosts. Trumpet vines are therefore ideally suited to Mediterranean and dry climate gardens.

As landscaping bushes, Trumpet vines form a loose screen, sporting colorful blooms intermittently through the year. They tend to have a similar leaf shape and fine to medium texture in common. Most are species, hybrids or varieties of the genus Tecoma, once known variously as Stenolobium and Tecomaria.

For example, Yellow Trumpet, Tecoma stans, if pruned once or twice a year, can be maintained at a height of 3-4 meters. If left untouched, it will form into a small tree. Best results are obtained in this regard though, following careful pruning and shaping. Cape Honeysuckle, Tecoma capensis, is somewhat more vine like in growth habit and so must be regularly pruned to maintain a bushy form. Excessive pruning however will deplete the plant of its attractive orange blooms.

Different species and varieties can be combined to effect a variation on a theme, always a good strategy for creating a unified but stimulating plant composition. For instance, the cultivar, “Golden Jubilee”, seemingly a hybrid between the Yellow Trumpet and Cape Honeysuckle, is almost identical in form and leaf texture as Tecoma stans, but grows spectacular orange flowers instead of yellow.

Another plant variously named “Trumpet Vine” or “Trumpet Creeper” is the rampant climber, Campsis radicans. While the shrub species mentioned, function as screens or informal hedges, Trumpet Creeper, as a self-clinging vine, can be allowed to climb up and cover a wall. No one who has seen this plant in the glory of its full bloom, (reddish-orange flowers) can remain indifferent. Campsis though, is very aggressive and it is best to avoid planting it next to the house, but rather on a freestanding wall instead.

Other combinations and associations

When choosing a plant or as in the case of Trumpet vines, a group of similar plants, it is always necessary to consider how they work with the rest of the plants in the garden. Trumpet bushes combine well for instance with a number of shrubs from the legume family. Senna corymbosa, with its yellow blooms, is a case in point as the leaf shape and texture are so similar to those of the Trumpet vines.

When choosing herbaceous material, whether annual or perennial, thought should be given to colors that either contrast well with the orange and yellow hues of the Trumpet vines, or blend in comfortably with them. In this respect, flowers like Bidens and Eschscolzia, with their respective yellow and orange colors complement subtly the dominant motif established by the different varieties of Trumpet vine.

Gardening With Children – How To Get The Best Results From The Gardening Tasks

Whether you have or your own garden and see the value in involving the children in its up-keep, or as a teacher in a school where horticultural activity is part of the curriculum, you may wish to give some thought to each of the main gardening tasks, to see how to obtain the most satisfying results from them. For where children are concerned, the quality of the results is judged not only by the physical state of the plants and features, but also by the fulfillment and inner development gained by the children.

Health and safety

Firstly though, prime consideration must be given to the safety of the children working in the garden. Never permit children to operate power tools of any description, including lawn mowers. Do not compromise on this! It should not be forgotten though, that hand tools can also pose a threat. Before embarking on work with a fresh set of kids, I always take a workshop where I take each tool in hand, explaining the hidden and not so hidden dangers. I also provide real life examples that I know of first hand, such as the young man who stabbed his own foot with a garden fork, or the gardener (me) who almost cut off his own finger with a pair of secateurs!

Soil Management

Soil management involves ensuring that there are sufficient nutrients available to the plants, and that the soil maintains a healthy, crumbly structure. The first may require periodic additions of fertilizer, preferably organic ones, while the latter involves consistently adding organic matter in the form of compost to the soil. It is of critical educational significance to stress that tendering the soil, is more important in the long run than feeding the plants, for the purpose of extracting more out of them in the short term.

An excellent way of engendering interest among school age children is to carry out soil tests once or twice a year. In this way, such expressions as “soil health” take on real, concrete and measurable meaning, as the soil’s pH, its salinity or nutrient levels are ascertained. In schools, control plots can be set up, where some plants receive chemical fertilizer alone, some only compost, and others nothing at all.

Pruning

Without a doubt, pruning, especially of ornamental plants, is one of the major tasks in the gardening calendar. From a safety point of view, children below the age of say 14 or 15 should not be allowed to work with pruning implements. Nonetheless, it is worthwhile encouraging younger children to understand the affects that pruning has on plants, the way it alters the growth pattern of branches and stems, and its implications for the future health of the plant. Always try to induce a sense of responsibility in the children. I also suggest, charging the younger children with the job of monitoring and recording the changes in the plants, during the months following the pruning.

Watering and irrigation

In dry climates where water shortages are endemic, it is needless to say, necessary to monitor strictly the water consumption of the garden plants. Again, from an educational point of view, the children must be made aware of how much they are using and how precious this resource is. For this purpose, I advocate a separate meter being installed especially for the garden, while use should be made of volumetric timers and computers that enable the application of precise quantities of water.

School Gardens – Organizing The Children To Develop Their Garden

The setting up of a garden whether in a private home or public park is always the start of the process and not the “finished product”. No matter how well designed, and how much money spent, if the garden is not maintained regularly, correctly and with sensitivity, love, care and attention, it will at best, never realize its enormous potential, and most likely degenerate into an unsightly mess. Nowhere does this apply more pertinently than in a school garden, where educators are no doubt aware of the detrimental effects on morale and confidence caused by failure.

From an entirely visual angle, a team of professional gardeners would best up-keep the school garden. This however excludes the involvement of the children in the running of the garden, preventing it from being “theirs”. Moreover, the tremendous educational potential in horticultural activity would be lost. Assuming then that the decision has been taken that the children will not only be helping in the garden, but largely responsible for it, the question arises as to how and in what way their involvement should be organized.

*Firstly, it is best to organize the children into small groups. As it is most likely that the garden will consist of various garden beds spread throughout the school grounds, one possibility is that each group becomes responsible for a particular section. This may be the most convenient arrangement from an organizational point of view, but it is liable to encourage a negative competitiveness between the groups, and effectively create a multitude of gardens. After all, the most fundamental educational lesson to be learned from horticulture is that it is properly speaking, a co-operative activity and not a competitive one.

*An alternative, the one I would suggest, is that each group takes on responsibility for a particular garden task, whether it is irrigation, soil management, weed and pest control or pruning. In this way, a certain expertise develops, resulting potentially at least, in greater interest, involvement, achievement and self-confidence in the participants. Periodically, a group can present a mini workshop to the others, by which they impart the knowledge and experience so far attained, while the co-operative nature of the project is emphasized. Every so often, probably according to age, the children can move into a new specialty, culminating in pruning, which should only be undertaken by the older children (and under strict supervision) in any case.

Spring Lawn Care In Mediterranean Gardens – How To Save Water And Grow A Better Lawn

As spring is almost upon us in the northern hemisphere, most home gardeners in dry Mediterranean climates will be looking at their lawns and wondering if they should be turning on the sprinklers. The question is, is it necessary or desirable to irrigate the lawn at the first hint of warm weather?

Most lawns grown in hot, dry summer climates are perennial grass species that develop deep and extensive root systems by means of underground stems known as rhizomes. Common examples are the Bermuda grasses, Zoysia varieties, Kikuyu grass and Paspalum. They are able to take up water at depths well beyond the topsoil layer. Furthermore, their underground perennial organs make it possible for them to withstand drought to a considerable degree, often recovering splendidly from a brief period of neglect.

The preferred irrigation regime for these grass types is one based on deep, but relatively well-spaced watering, as this induces the roots to grow down into the subsoil. Other than encouraging the lawn to be more drought tolerant, there are numerous benefits to such a regime, such as increased hardiness to pests and disease, and preventing salts to accumulate in the soil.

In early spring therefore, providing a significant rain has occurred within 3 weeks or so, and assuming that the soil depth is over say 75cm, it is best not to water at first, but to wait for a period of time to elapse before doing so. The question is of course: how long should one wait?

For established lawns, it is possible to delay watering until the grass displays the first signs of stress, typified by a change of color and a loss of leaf turgidity. In fact, it is possible to save more water by delaying irrigating for a few further days, and deducting those extra days from the calculation that determines the amount of water that is to be applied. It is safer though for home gardeners not to do this and to open up the sprinklers, when the grass starts to yellow.

It must be made clear, that perennial grass types like St Augustine, (Stenotaphrum) that grow by means of stolons as opposed to rhizomes, develop shallower root systems and so are less suited for this type of schedule. Furthermore, conclusions should not be drawn from this and applied to other groups of garden plants. Most flowers, perennial or annual, struggle to recover after the wilting point has been reached, and so water is applied in order to pre-empt stress. With regard to woody plants as well, both trees and shrubs, the initial signs of water stress, often indicate a level of internal damage, from which the plant may never satisfactorily recover.

School Gardens – How To Involve Children In Setting Up The Garden

Working with children to set up a garden in their school is always a challenging project. From my experience of teaching horticulture to schoolchildren in Israel, the most critical factor behind a project’s success is the extent to which they are involved mentally in all the various tasks that they will be performing.

The first important step is to hold a class, preferably a series of them, to explain the significance of each act and stage in the process. Admittedly, a lecture on soil fertility or weed control will probably bore the children to death, so it is advisable to adopt the Socratic method of asking questions and imparting the necessary information by means of the answers they themselves provide.

For example, when I ask what the plants require to grow and develop a shower of hands shoot up and answers such as “water” and “food” are proffered. “What about air?” I ask. “Oh yes they need that as well.” “How do the roots get access to oxygen? Is it absorbed by the leaves and then circulated down to the roots?” After they are reminded that this is of course not the case, the importance of adequate supplies of air in the soil is better understood. This puts such tasks as digging the soil and composting into context.

Soil tests

One of the best ways of grabbing the children’s’ interest is to conduct a soil test. The process as a whole and the data gathered provide an authoritative basis for all that follows. The children, under the supervision of the science teacher, should be involved in collecting the samples to be sent to a laboratory, told of the type of information that is sort and how they will be acting on it. Data concerning the soil pH, (acid – alkaline scale) nutrient levels, soil salinity and presence of pathogens affect decisions as to fertilizing and soil improvements.

Design considerations

The workshop is a golden opportunity to explain something about the rules of design. It may be a good idea to enlist the services of the art teacher to explain the reason why particular combinations of plants are suitable and others not so. The most important thing is to make it clear that there is nothing capricious or personal in the choices that have been made.

When the work is being carried out, time should be allocated for questions and answers. It is an opportunity in fact to reiterate what was discussed in class, thereby clarifying the connection between the tasks themselves, and the reasons for them. Schoolchildren no less than adults, hate having things imposed on them. Telling and barking out instructions alienate them, while involving them in the mental processes involved, includes them properly in the project, with far more satisfactory results ensuing.

School Gardens – As Much About Education As Gardening

There are no doubt a number of good and perhaps obvious reasons for creating and developing gardens in school grounds, such as the need for shade trees in the playground, shrubs and bushes to screen the street outside, and a nice clean lawn as opposed to mud and dirt. Irrespective of these however, the garden, or the processes connected with it, should be seen as having educational potential, in the fullest and deepest meaning of the word.

Growing fruit vegetables and herbs

The best reason for raising plants for food is not to shave a bit off the school budget, but to show children that food does not originate in plastic wrappers and supermarket shelves, but is grown according to specific processes. By being involved at some stage of that process, whether by way of planting, composting, pruning or harvesting, the child’s mindset alters from that of a consumer, concerned only with the end product, to that of producer, concerned with, and aware of the means by which the food is produced. Could this help to engender a sense of responsibility in the children? I think there is a connection between the two.

Creating a beautiful landscape

It is easy to cite the usual benefits to be derived from working, studying and playing in an attractive and pleasing environment. The deeper question though involves the educational implications of inculcating design knowledge and aesthetic sensitivity in schoolchildren. Will they as a result, understand better the connection between things? For what after all is composition, if not the correct order in which different elements work together.

An enhanced design sense grants children at least some freedom of thought from the vice-like grip of peer group pressure, a phenomenon ruthlessly exploited by the fashion industry, and therefore has implications for self-esteem and emotional independence.

Helping the biology and chemistry teachers!

On a more prosaic level, involving the children in horticultural work can increase their enthusiasm and interest in the science subjects. By working the soil, such terms as “ionic exchange” or “pH”, may seem less detached from their reality, as will the expression “balanced eco-system”, after they have had to cope a few times with plant pests and disease. A biology class on “nutrient uptake in plants” may take on new meaning following the childrens’ experience of seeing their plants in the field respond to feeding.

Last, but definitely not least, by growing their own fruit and vegetables, they may enjoy the opportunity of eating freshly grown produce and start to look at the stuff bought at the supermarkets with a different eye. Now there’s education for you!

Garden Landscaping – Thinking About Umbrella Shaped Plants In The Garden Design

One of the factors behind a successful and satisfying garden composition is the intelligent use of trees and shrubs that have a definite and clear form. A pencil thin Cypress for instance, creates a clear vertical accent, and draws the eye upwards. A contrasting effect, horizontal in nature, is created by trees that possess an umbrella, flat-topped shape. In general, plants with a strong, definite line enhance both the sense of order in the garden, and its natural feel. Umbrella-shaped plants are therefore ideally suited to small home gardens. Two fine examples that stand out for gardeners in Mediterranean climates are Delonix regia and the Silk or Mimosa tree. (Albizia julibrissin)

Delonix is only suitable for warm winter locations. It has zero tolerance of frost, and is best avoided if the winter minimums reach below 10c. However, in the right place it can be one of the most unforgettable garden treats imaginable. In the tropics, where it originates, it grows to about 12 meters in height and as much in width, although in climates with cooler winters, it has a more squat, flat shape, being very wide, but relatively low. Delonix’s leaf texture is delicate and feathery, but most people are struck by the spectacular red blooms that adorn the tree in the summer, followed by the dramatic looking fruit that hang from in long pods. Delonix is not suitable for planting as a shade tree near a house, as its roots are very aggressive and invasive.

The Silk tree cannot compare to a truly great Delonix, but as it can be grown in locations that receive light frosts, it is a far more viable option in many Mediterranean regions. Sometimes, the leading shoot has to be clipped, causing the tree to adopt the desired umbrella form. Mimosa’s leaf texture, like that of Delonix, is light and feathery. It also adds color to the garden with its pin-cushion, pinkish red flowers. It associates brilliantly with Calliandra, a large shrub from the same botanical family, (Fabaceae) the latter’s blooms being almost identical in color and shape. Mimosa is a slow starter tending to take a few years before growing fairly rapidly to 4-5 meters.

A number of shrubs and bushes can also be used for the purpose of creating a low, flat appearance. One of the best and easiest to grow in this manner is the Chaste tree, Vitex agnus-castus from West and Central Asia, or its Australian counterpart, Vitex trifolia. These plants can be limbed-up to reveal interesting branch architecture, while the tops can be pruned now and again to maintain the desired height. Furthermore, their addition to the planting scheme, strengthen the umbrella motif established by the trees.

Shade Trees – The Critical Points To Remember Before Choosing One

Choosing a tree is without a doubt the most serious decision that a gardener, professional or amateur, has to make, for no other garden element has such far-reaching and long-standing consequences. This applies all the more when it comes to choosing a shade tree, as the right choice can significantly enhance the quality of the family’s life, while a poor one is liable to dramatically detract from it. Here are the critical points to remember.

Does the tree have aggressive roots?

It may be stating the obvious, but judging by the number of cardinal errors that one still sees today, it is necessary to ram this point home. It is imperative to undertake some research and determine whether the chosen species develops an aggressive root system. Trees like Ficus, Poplar, Casaurina, Erythrina, and Ulmus should not be planted within 20 meters of the house. If the future tree is intended to provide shade for a seating area, then make sure it will be planted a similar distance from underground sewage pipes. For example, the spectacular Delonix regia, (suitable only for warm winter climates) with its squat, umbrella form, might be wonderful to create a shady corner at the garden’s edge, but by virtue of its invasive roots, dangerous close to a building.

Is the tree deciduous or evergreen?

This is a critical question as far as energy consumption is concerned especially in hot, dry and Mediterranean climates. Ideally, the tree ought to be deciduous, (bare of leaves during the winter) because the shade provided in the summer significantly reduces the use of air conditioners, while the bare condition of the tree in the winter allows the sun to sufficiently warm the house thereby reducing the need for heating. Examples of appropriate trees for shading a house are hackberry, (Celtis) Judas tree(Cercis siliquastrum) and for small homes, the Crape Myrtle. (Lagerstroemia indica)

How big will the tree be?

It is important to choose a tree that is appropriate in scale with the house. A massive Eucalyptus not only looks out of place next to a one story building, but by dwarfing it, is liable to induce a feeling of insignificance and claustrophobia amongst the home dwellers. The dark and gloom caused by excessive shade can similarly be a factor behind depression. The possible psychological consequences of these matters should not be under-estimated. For further discussion on this topic, go to the link below and then on the Articles page, arranged alphabetically, and find the article “Planting Trees – Where To Place Landscape And Fruit Trees.”

How rapidly does the tree grow

In principle of course, most people are interested in a species that will provide shade as quickly as possible. Admittedly, a great but slow-growing tree such as Pistacia atlantica, by taking about 20 years to reach 5-6 meters, would hardly be a suitable candidate. On the other hand, beware of many fast growing species. The very fast growers, like Tipuana tipu, require frequent and none to easy pruning for the first 10 years or so after planting. The question needs to be asked therefore, if the resources will be available for a difficult and expensive maintenance regime in the future.

Venomous Snakes In The Garden - How To Avoid The Danger

In areas where poisonous snakes are known to visit gardens, three approaches are commonly adopted by the homeowner. One is to be so frightened of the thought of such creatures lurking in the undergrowth that the outdoor space is paved over instead of being turned into a garden. A second approach, by far the more common, is to be unaware or to ignore the potential danger and to pretend it does not exist. The third and best option is to continue to use the garden without fear and trepidation, but to take one particular step that for all practical purposes, removes all possibility of venomous snakes threatening the safety of those who use the garden.

The legitimate fear of snakes should neither deter one from planting a garden, nor from covering the earth with some form of organic mulch; actions that encourage wildlife to visit the garden and even take up residence there. The garden, in order to function as a healthy, vital and balanced eco-system needs in fact to be a magnet for as many different organisms as possible. The consequence is that some unwanted visitors may turn up uninvited, along with the rest of the guests. Conversely, a garden that is hostile to wildlife, (as a result of the use of pesticides and chemical fertilizers) may deter snakes from it, but will pose a threat to the health of the family from many other sources. The challenge therefore, is how to make the garden as environmentally friendly as possible (that means a garden that contains a vast number and variety of organisms) while removing the danger of venomous snakes from it.

Cats in the garden

The most effective way of ensuring that snakes do not raise their heads within the vicinity of your home and garden is to keep a domestic cat or two in the backyard. This may strike some as strange advice to offer, particularly as many people are actually looking for solutions to the problems that cats themselves cause. However, if the drawbacks of a cat are recognized, and the damage reduced to minimal proportions, then in principle, the threat from poisonous snakes can be neutralized with almost no detrimental affect on the garden.

There are two basic problems associated with cats. One is their propensity to dig up a section of a garden bed for toilet purposes. This can easily be overcome by training the cat to use a litter tray, exactly as one would with a house bound pet. In any case, at worst, the damage cats inflict on a garden cannot be remotely compared to the devastation that dogs are liable to inflict.

The second issue is one of quantity. A situation where tens of strays are attracted to the garden, is obviously undesirable, to say the least. It’s vital therefore to neuter the cats, whether male or female, thereby removing the main source of attraction for neighboring cats to use your garden. It should not be forgotten that cats are also territorial by nature, and if provided with small amounts of food on a regular basis, usually claim the area as their own, and manage to keep out all but the most persistent invading stray. That one you might have to shoo away now and again!

Pest Control – The Most Suitable Way Of Keeping Aphids In Check In A Home Garden

As winter draws to a close in the northern hemisphere, and likewise summer in the southern hemisphere, it’s important to be on the lookout for aphids – the tiny sucking insects that prey on garden plants mainly in the spring, and to a lesser extent during the autumn. Early identification and action can prevent damage to a wide variety of plants, WITHOUT resorting to chemical pesticides.

Aphids, a general term for a number of genera and species, cluster on young stems and leaves. Typically, they secrete a sugary, sticky substance known as honeydew. This in itself is both unsightly and unpleasant, but it is rare that plants are seriously affected by it in the long run. Of far greater consequence is the complex of black, powdery fungi that develop on the honeydew secretions. These, by smothering the leaves in soot, significantly reduce the rate of photosynthesis, and therefore the energy available to the plant.

Ideally, small outbreaks of aphids are best left unattended, in order to provide food for their natural enemies. Birds, small mammals and a host of beneficial insects, such as ladybirds, feed or parasite on aphids to a great extent, and it is preferable to tolerate some temporary imperfection in the ornamental plants, rather than disturb the natural balance between various organisms. For this reason, applying chemical pesticides is an option that should not be considered other than in extreme circumstances.

As an optimal, ecological balance is difficult to attain in most garden situations, it’s important to be on the look out for aphid activity, and to act promptly. At the first sign of sticky secretions on the leaves and young juicy stems, apply a firm jet of water on the affected parts, and where possible, crush the aphids by rubbing the stems or leaves between thumb and forefinger.

One should also be attentive to weather forecasts, as the hot dry winds accompanying certain systems typical of spring and autumn, kill-off most of the remaining aphids that have survived the water treatment. Examples of this are the Sirocco in Southern Italy and the Hamsin in the Eastern Mediterranean.

In the event of more serious infestations, then the use of non-toxic products can be considered, such as insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, or natural pesticides based on pyrethrins. In some cases though, as with tall trees, mechanical treatment, or spraying with an environmentally friendly product may be impractical or even impossible. One possibility is to apply a systemic pesticide such as Confidor, where it is injected into the earth, watered-in and taken up by the plant’s roots as a solute in the soil water. As a long term strategy of pest control however, it would be far better to avoid planting susceptible species in the first place.