Selecting Roses As Part Of A Landscape Garden Design

Spring is the season when the splendor of rose bushes is at its height. Despite their drop in popularity in recent years, mainly due to difficulties in care and maintenance, the sight of a large group of roses in full bloom, is unquestionably one of the highlights of the gardening year. While success depends on adopting correct horticultural practices, it actually starts or ends with a clear understanding of the design role to be played by the roses.

As roses are almost always grown for their flowers and not for the shape or form of the bush, (with the possible exception of climbing roses) the primary task is to carefully choose a color scheme. Randomly throwing colors together is as unlikely to achieve satisfying results in the garden, as it would be in the sitting room. Massing a single color, creates a strong, decisive design, and is always more effective than mixing colors together in a small space. A large group of Bordeaux rose flowers by a white wall for instance, can create a dramatic focal point in the garden. White flowers on the other hand, are often used by designers as a bridge or transition between different color groups.

For roses to be most effective, they have to relate well to the other elements in the garden. They are at their best where a quiet hedge serves as a background, while they tend to look “lost” in the middle of a large lawn. Roses should be given their pride of place. Planting herbaceous flowers between the bushes, whether annual or perennial, usually weakens the composition. It is preferable in my view, to cover the ground instead with a neat mulch of wood chippings.

Thought should also be given to the flower-type of the roses to be chosen. For this reason, familiarity with the various groups is desirable. Typical of hybrid tea roses for example, are large, spectacular flowers that appear singularly on each flower bud. In small intimate spaces, the “architecture” of the individual flower assumes greater significance than in a large border, so hybrid teas are often more suited to such locations. Floribunda roses on the other hand, produce a far greater quantity of flowers from each bud, although the individual flowers are invariably smaller and less interesting in their structure. If the effect desired is a very powerful mass of color, in a relatively large space, then choosing a variety from the floribunda group, could be preferable to a hybrid tea. Furthermore, many hybrid teas are highly fragrant, whereas floribundas are rarely so.

Although roses are grown essentially for their blooms, other design functions can also be considered. If a climbing plant is desired to cover a fence or a wall, a suitable rose could well be the answer. Miniature roses can look excellent as a transition between a lawn and a shrubbery, while some species roses (that is wild roses) enhance a Mediterranean style garden with their arching, sprawling form. Rambling roses of course can be used as large-scale ground covers.

Flower Garden Design - Bedding Plants That Have A Fine Leaf Texture

When designing a flower garden, color maybe the single most important consideration, but need not be the only one. Bedding or herbaceous plants have form, size, and shape. Their leaves also possess a definite, visual texture. An excellent way of achieving a satisfying and harmonious composition in the flowerbed is to group together plants whose leaves are finely cut, serrated, or toothed. By so doing, the variety that is attained by contrasting colors is balanced by the unity achieved by the common leaf texture.

Examples of such bedding plants to name a few, would include, Achillea, (Yarrow) Brachycome, Bidens, Felicia, and Chrysanthemum frutescens. While all the above belong to the same botanical family, (Asteraceae) plants belonging to other families can also be found to possess similar leaf shapes. Verbena and Linum, (Flax) are cases that spring to mind.

Such plants, combine beautifully with many herb species such as Thyme, Artemisia and Rosemary, as well as with flowering plants whose leaves are not finely-cut, but nonetheless, narrow and delicate. Examples are some carnations, (Dianthus) Armeria, and small, grass, or grass-like plants like Festuca and Liriope. If you think in terms of shapes and textures, you’ll get far better results than by focusing on color alone.

Thought should also be given as to how the flowering plants in the bed associate with the other plant-types in the garden, such as the ground covers, shrubs, and trees. An incredible sense of unity arises when these “speak the same language” both with each other and with the plants in the flowerbed.

For instance, ground covers can form a transition area between the lawn, and the herbaceous border. When choosing a ground cover, why not use a fine-textured species like Myoporum parvifolium. Similarly, shrubs with feathery leaves like some species of Melaleuca, Calliandra or coniferous shrubs like Juniper, accentuate and strengthen the design motif. A group of ornamental grasses, especially when they sport tall blooms, would be another example of a subtle association between the flowerbed and a different section of the garden.

The connection does not have to stop there. A criterion for choosing the trees in the garden, albeit not the only one, can definitely be their leaf texture. Trees that have very large, course leaves, are liable to seem incongruous with the fine textures of the rest of the garden plants. While on the other hand, feathery-leaved trees like Albizzia julibrissen, or Gleditsia triacanthos, would associate and combine appropriately with them.

Annual Flowers-Ideas To Aid The Gardener In A Dry Climate

Annual flowers play an undeniably important role in ornamental gardening. Trees and shrubs can supply flower color at a height that is usually from eye-level upwards, while herbaceous perennials, like annuals, flower at a height ranging from ground level to about a meter. (3ft) While by no means essential for a successful garden, annual plants nonetheless fulfill a number of needs.

Firstly, they supplement the perennials in a garden bed. As it is virtually impossible for a perennial border to look good at all times – plants need to be clipped, pruned down to the ground, or lifted, divided and replaced – annuals fill the inevitable gaps, while providing color and interest at the same time.

Secondly, specific color effects are sometimes only attainable by using annual bedding plants. It is difficult to think of perennial equivalents to the deep red of some Petunia varieties, the staggering purple of some Lobelias, or the bright orange of marigolds. (Tagetes) Furthermore, despite needing to be replaced every few months or so, annuals often involve less work than maintaining a perennial flowerbed. It is with good reason therefore, that annual flowers are sought after by home gardeners, designers, and landscape professionals alike.

The main problem in dry climates is the very high use of water that annual plants demand. In Mediterranean climates, summer annuals need at least 1000 liters per square meter per year of irrigation water. By way of comparison, perennials like sage can perform perfectly well on less than half that sum. Here then are some guidelines for enjoying the beauty of annual flowers, while keeping within water limits.

*Concentrate flowers, both annual and perennial, in one or two special spots in the garden. This creates a strong design, as opposed to “peppering” them throughout the garden. Together with this, a separate irrigation line should be provided for the bedding plants. It is impossible to take advantage of the low water consumption of many shrubs and trees, if annual flowers are planted around them.

*Try to think of color schemes as one would when planning a sitting room, or deciding on what to wear for an evening out. There is nothing “natural” about randomly throwing different colors together. It is simply bad taste!

*The use of summer annuals should be restricted as far as possible. It is often best to limit them to pots and containers, placed strategically in front of water conserving shrubs, which act as a background for them. An exciting effect can be achieved by just a small group of red flowers in pots, against the green of a hedge.

*In Mediterranean climates, the winter is the also the rainy season. A large range of winter annuals are available to the gardener, and can be grown almost without resorting to watering at all. They can also be planned to coincide with the flowering of bulbs and corms like tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths. In order to save water therefore, winter/spring, and not the summer, should be considered the primary season for annual color.

Garden Tools-How To Choose And Use A Vital Lawn Care Tool

Apart from a lawn mower, the most important tools for maintaining a top quality lawn are the rotary edging tools known variously as strimmers, weed whackers, or brush cutters. The thin, hard, nylon chord that whizzes at high velocity, may not be suitable for creating a neat edge in the first place, but is very effective in maintaining one afterwards. Which type is most appropriate for the home gardener, and how are they best used?

Electric or gas tools?

Broadly speaking, there are two types of strimmer to choose from. Strimmers that run on petrol, (usually petrol/oil mixtures) are the preferred choice of professional gardeners, as they have far more power and are therefore suitable for heavy-duty work. The quality tools made by the reputable companies could be about four or five times the price of their electric counterparts, but should last the home gardener a lifetime if looked after properly. Maintaining the strimmer simply involves depositing it once a year at a workshop specializing in power-tool repair and maintenance.

By way of comparison, the lifespan of the electric-powered strimmers is often very limited indeed. The cheap products tossed on the market now and again, end up at the back of the garden shed in no time, although the products marketed by the well-known manufactures may be good for a number of years. Price however is not the only parameter to consider.

*Electric strimmers lack the power to efficiently deal with the tough leaves of many perennial lawn species, like, Kikuyu, St.Augustine, Bermuda, or Zoysia, although they may be adequate for species that have soft leaves, like Festuca and Ryegrass. Similarly, electrically powered tools can be sufficient for very small backyard lawns, but for large areas, the home gardener should consider investing in a quality gas-powered strimmer.

*Ergonomically, electric strimmers are undesirable if there is a lot of regular work to be undertaken. As the motors are placed at the far end of the machine, (away from the body) it follows that they are top heavy. As with lifting heavy objects, the weight should always be as close to the body as possible, to avoid damage to muscles and ligaments. Petrol strimmers on the other hand are so designed that the weight is properly distributed, thereby reducing the risk of tendonitis and chronic back problems. What price do you place on that?

Strimmers are dangerous!

When using a strimmer, always remember that you are operating a potentially lethal machine. The greatest danger comes from small pebbles that fly at tremendous velocity after being hit by the end of the nylon chord. Both the operator and passers-by are equally vulnerable, so the former must always wear protective clothing for eyes and face, while ensuring that no persons are within a radius of at least 15 meters. (45ft) Approved ear mufflers are also an absolute requirement. In both these respects, electric tools are far less dangerous than petrol ones.

Damage to plants

Tremendous damage is caused to garden plants by misuse of rotary strimmers, especially the highly powered, gas-operated ones. Accidentally chopping down the odd Iris or Tulip, is the least of the trouble. Of far more significance are the wounds sometimes inflicted on tree trunks, where in some cases, the flow of matter in the tree (water, nutrients and photsynthates) is so disrupted as to cause its early demise. So as a precautionary rule of thumb, never work within at least 50cm (1-2ft) from the trunk of trees shrubs. Cut the grass that is growing close by the tree, with good old-fashioned garden sheers.

Garden Care – Do Perennials Need Less Maintenance Than Annuals?

It is common to find amongst home gardeners, the idea that perennial flowering plants demand far less care and attention than annuals. As annuals live for no more than a season, an annual flowerbed has to be re-planted at least twice during the year, and more usually once more within a season. Conversely, because perennials live beyond a single season, they are often considered a factor in “low-maintenance gardening”. This view from my 24 years gardening experience, is false.

The truth is that successfully growing herbaceous perennials is one of the most labor-intensive activities in the gardening task book. Many plants require frequent clipping and pruning in order to encourage dense growth and a compact form, while if left to their own devises, merely become long and leggy. Timing is often all-important, particularly with perennials that originate from Mediterranean climates. Good examples are many of the South African perennials like Arctotis, Osteospermum and Lampranthus, where unless one’s finger is held firmly on the pulse, the aesthetic value of such plants is lost very quickly.

Neither is the term “perennial” always sufficiently understood. Some species look poor within a year or two, and need to be replaced, albeit less frequently than annuals. In short, it is not possible for a flowerbed comprising largely of perennials to perform satisfactorily through the year, without constant, clipping, lifting, dividing, replacing and re planting. From the point of view of time spent, and energy expended, replacing annual bedding plants every so often, is probably easier than maintaining a perennial border.

Yet there are two very good reasons for growing herbaceous perennials. Firstly, our gardens would be so much the poorer without them. Some of the finest non-woody flowering plants are perennial – Salvia, Chrysanthemum, Verbena, Dianthus, Digitalis, Geranium, Viola, Delphinium – the list is endless.

The second reason is more specific to dry climates and concerns water management. Overall, annuals in Mediterranean climates require at least 1000 mm (1000 liters per square meter) of irrigation water a year. In continental climates, such as the American Mid-West, or Central Asia, the requirement is considerably more. This colossal consumption rate is untenable in dry and not so dry regions, and so the use of annual plants must be severely restricted. By way of comparison, many perennials such as Salvia and Chrysanthemum can be grown on less than half that quantity, while some species like Lampranthus or Drosanthemum, (Ice Plants) can survive on seasonal rains alone. In dry climates therefore, annuals are best restricted to limited use in pots and containers, and grown primarily during the wet season.

Garden Design – Planning An Herbaceous Perennial Flower Bed

There are a number of reasons why perennial bedding plants, as opposed to annual ones, are used in garden designs. Perennials by growing beyond a single season, are thought to demand less care and maintenance than annuals that have to be replaced every few months or so. In dry climate gardens especially, annual flowers consume significantly more water than any other group of plants, requiring at least 1000 liters per square meter a year, in comparison to some perennial species, which can often grow on a third as much water.

Yet many home gardeners end up being disappointed with their flowerbeds. One reason for this is that in many cases, too many short-lived perennials are planted in the border. Plants like Verbena, Bidens, and Nierembergia, may be splendid specimens, but rarely add much value to the garden after about a year from planting. The answer is to back up the short-lived species with flowering plants that live and look good for a number of years.

For example, The shrubby species of Chrysanthemum, like C. frutescens, can last some 2-3 years before declining. A similar sub-shrub, but more long-lived, is Euryops pectinatus. On the other hand, the grass-like Agapanthus, noted for its fabulous sky-blue flowers that emerge from tall stalks in the summer, spreads by means of vegetative reproduction. The plants can be lifted and divided with ease. Other long-lasting plants include Salvia (Sage), Limonium, Arctotis, Coreopsis, and Lampranthus. (Ice Plant)

Whatever the longevity of a particular species, herbaceous perennials rarely bloom continuously for extended periods of time. There is always an off-season and a time when they have to be cut-down, clipped in some way, or lifted and divided. This is another main source of disappointment. One way round the problem is to include non-flowering herbaceous plants that “hold” the bed, while the showy plants have been pruned down. Phormium, Dietes, Iresine, and the ornamental Asparagus, (Myers Asparagus) are but a few examples of this.

A more creative solution can be found by including ornamental grasses in the composition. The best ornamental grasses like Miscanthus, with their tall plumes and lovely foliage, add dynamic elements of movement and sound to the bed. Invariably, these plants need to be rejuvenated by shaving down to the ground in the spring and autumn. This is where advanced planning comes into its own. Plants that bloom early such as Convolvulus, Osteospermum, Linum, Perovskia, together with a host of well-known favorites, can perform without interference from the tall grasses, and when these latter come into their own at the beginning of the summer, the flowering plants can themselves be pruned back.

Thought should also be given to late flowering perennials that take over from those that have completed their flowering by the end of the spring. Examples include Canna, Penstemon, Felicia, and many species of Iris.

Spring Lawn Care –Special Tasks That are Essential for Success

Successfully maintaining a lawn to a high standard requires performing the regular tasks correctly, and ensuring that certain special tasks are carried out on time. In dry and hot summer climates, “regular tasks” would include irrigation, while in all climates, frequent mowing at the right height is also vital. This article focuses on those tasks that need, specifically, to be carried out in the spring, and where failure to do is liable to result in less than satisfactory results.

*Removing thatch that has built-up over the previous year is one such special task. Different lawn varieties produce thatch at varying rates. In species like Zoysia, the mass of tough organic matter that takes ages to break down, just gets thicker and thicker unless removed. If not, a layer is formed at the soil’s surface that is impervious to some degree to water penetration and the exchange of gasses. A host of problems arises as a result, including more pests and disease infestations, and a general degeneration of the lawn.

Thatch is ideally removed by a scarifying machine, which in addition to digging out the excess organic matter, scratches the soil surface, thereby relieving topsoil compaction and inducing new growth. It can also be removed by mowing the grass as low as possible, an action that can have disastrous consequences for the lawn if performed at the wrong time. Neither scarifying nor heavy scalping are appropriate for all lawn types. Indeed, they can only be safely used on perennial grasses like Bermuda grass, Paspalum, Kikuyu, or Zoysia – species that develop perennating organs like rhizomes, within the soil.

*Top-dressing, in combination with dethatching and scarifying, is another technique employed by professionals. Sand that has been leached of salts, is mixed with well-rotted compost or earthworm castings, and spread as a thin layer on the lawn. With the lawn types mentioned above, as much as 5-10cm (1-2 inches) can be spread, but care must be taken with grasses like St Augustine or Buffalo that do not possess rhizomes and are shallow rooting. The two great benefits associated with Top Dressing are that dips and hollows in the lawn are straightened out, while in general, growth that is more vibrant ensues.

Last ,but definitely not least, is feeding. Shortly after the dethatching (assuming it is necessary) controlled release or organic fertilizer should be applied on the lawn. The former need only be spread two or three times a year, and are arguably most effective in accelerating the break up of the organic matter ( usually stems and roots that decompose slowly) which form the thatch layer. Controlled, or slow-release fertilizers may be considerably more expensive than readily soluble types like Urea or Ammonium Sulfate, but are far less damaging to the environment.

Garden Irrigation - What Does Over-Watering Really Mean?

Most home gardeners are probably aware of the detrimental effects of over-watering. Quite apart from the desire to save water, there is a vague recognition that excessive watering is bad for the plants. It is common to find in garden literature for example, references to this or that plant that is “sensitive to over-watering”. By understanding this term more precisely however, you can irrigate more effectively, and manage the water at your disposal more efficiently.

Irrigation alters two parameters in the soil. Firstly, obviously and self-evidently, water is added to it; less obvious, but no less critical, is that the percentage of oxygen present in the soil is subsequently reduced. As the plants are dependent on both a ready supply of oxygen in the root zone, together with adequate moisture, it follows that correct irrigation practice, always takes account of both these factors. Over-watering therefore, could more accurately be termed, “lacking in air”, and sensitive plants better understood as those requiring high percentages of oxygen in the root zone. To be technical about it, one could describe them as being particularly adverse to anaerobic conditions.

It is no coincidence that plants that naturally grow in dry climates tend to suffer, decline, and rot, when the soil drains poorly or when they are over-watered. As these regions experience extended periods of aridity, the plants are adapted to soil conditions that are highly aerated. A few examples are Mediterranean species like Lavender, Rosemary, and Pomegranate, shrubs like Leucophyllum from Texas, and most clearly, the large range of Australian ornamentals, such as Melaleuca, Eucalyptus, Grevillea and Myoporum.

For such flora, the best way to ensure a satisfactory balance between air and moisture is to water deeply but infrequently. Water should be applied in sufficient quantities so that it percolates down to the roots in the subsoil, while the topsoil dries out between each watering. The method is not dissimilar to watering houseplants, where for the most part, it is recommended that the top 2-3 cm of the potting mixture dry out before watering.

Furthermore, just as houseplants are irrigated to the point where water drains out of the hole at the bottom of the pot, so the garden plants, counter-intuitively perhaps, should also be watered to a depth beyond the extent of the root zone. What appears at first sight to be wasting water is in fact essential for preventing a dangerous build-up of salts in the soil.

Obviously, young plants with very shallow roots do not need water 20cm beyond their capacity to take it up. Neither is their any sense in watering too deeply in very shallow soil. However with established trees and shrubs, irrigating to a depth of about a meter, is a good rule of thumb to go by. It is even appropriate for perennial hot-climate perennial lawns like Kikuyu or Bermuda grass.

For this purpose, use a pole or stick to measure the depth to which moisture has penetrated the soil, while bearing in mind that “over-watering” does not mean irrigating somewhat to excess, but rather failing to maintain a proper air/moisture balance, invariably caused by a frequent but shallow irrigation regime.

Star Jasmine – A Different Type Of Climbing Plant

The overwhelming majority of climbing plants tend to be rampant and aggressive in their growth habit. They need to be so in the forests where they grow naturally, in order to scramble up towards the light of the forest canopy. This attribute is often welcome in many garden situations, but tends to become problematical in small spaces. The temptation to plant the likes of Bougainvillea, Thunbergia, or Campsis, with their rapid cover and spectacular blooms, can be very great, but many a small plot has been taken over or become an unmanageable tangle as a result.

In contrast stands Star Jasmine, (Trachelospermum jasminoides) which is fairly slow growing and not as showy as many of the usual climbers. Often considered a drawback by the unaware, its lethargy in getting started makes it easy to keep under control, and so it is far more suitable for the small private garden or backyard.

In its own way, Star Jasmine is actually a very beautiful ornamental. Reaching about 2-3 meters (9 ft) it has small, dark green, shiny leaves, which add a refined, woodsy feel to the garden. The plant is smothered by delicate, but very fragrant white flowers in the spring and early summer. It looks good at close quarters, maintaining a decent appearance all the year round. Star Jasmine is therefore suitable for small, intimate spaces such as entrances and narrow paths.

An ornamental plant, like an ingredient in a recipe, is only as good as its place in the general scheme of things. In design terms, a specimen has to relate appropriately with the other plants. In this regard, Trachelospermum climbing up a wall combines excellently with low growing shrubs of medium texture, like Pittosporum “Wheelers dwarf”, Coprosma repens and Green Island Ficus. It also goes well with bushes like Carissa, Viburnum, Duranta, and Raphiolepis.

For those who like the natural feel of a plant scrambling up a tree, Star Jasmine is an infinitely wiser choice than rampant climbers such as Ivy. The latter, though not a parasite in biological terms, can virtually strangle a tree, causing branches to collapse under its weight, and seriously shortening the tree’s life. Trachelospermum simply does not possess such belligerent qualities!

For climbing on tall walls, Star Jasmine needs tying and training. With age, the vines do become thicker, and so the structure on which it is trained, ought to be able to take some weight. On short walls though, it does not require support, as it cascades over the top of the wall. It is also used sometimes as a medium scale ground cover. Left to its own devises, it tends to mound somewhat, and in time can become bare and bald, other than at the growing tips. It is therefore worth pruning and clipping on a regular basis in order to induce lateral growth and ultimately, a denser, more compact appearance.

Herbs – The Perfect Plant For Your Own Herb Garden

Is it possible to find a plant that is at once decorative, aromatic, flavorsome and useful as a pest-control agent? Too good to be true? If you have a herb garden or are thinking of creating one, consider planting Artemisia arborescens, as it possesses all those properties just mentioned. You may not have the perfect spouse, but at least there is such a thing as the perfect plant for a herb garden!

Artemisia is a large genus from the sage family, containing many species, including the herb Tarragon. (Artemisia dracunulus) Artemisia arborescens originates from the Mediterranean. Growing to about 1 meter, (3 ft) its foliage is a bright silvery-grey, with interesting, delicate and finely cut leaf patterns. Design-wise, it is highly suited to a dry climate garden, combining beautifully in terms of texture with delicate-leaved plants like Chrysanthemum frutescens. In terms of color, it blends well with the blues, lilacs and pinks of such plants as Lavender, Dianthus, (perennial carnations) and many species of sage.

A silvery plant of course, always functions as an accent amongst the mass of green foliage in a border. Moreover, in a herb garden, the Artemisia leaves contrast dramatically with the purple leaves of some varieties of Basil and the dark or variegated foliage of some sages.

While A. arborescens is well known for its aromatic qualities, not everyone is familiar with its herbal uses. Its leaves are excellent in tea, but ought to be removed shortly after immersion to avoid the tea becoming too bitter. The oils contained in the plant are thought to have anti-viral properties and are the subject of much scientific/medical research.

Some species of Artemisia are considered to depress the growth of neighboring plants.
Having grown A. arborescens for years in gardens in Israel, I have no reason to believe that this is the case with this particular species. On the contrary; there seems to be an absence of pests wherever it grows. It is highly likely therefore that the Artemisia repels insects to a considerable degree. The one interesting exception is during the spring when the tips of its stems tend to be smothered in black aphids, while all the remaining garden species in the vicinity remain virtually untouched. Very possibly it functions as a decoy plant. The aphids cause minimal damage to the Artemisia and can be easily removed by clipping the affected parts. In any case, spring is a good time for pruning Artemisia plants. It keeps their growth dense and compact. In time, a plant can be limbed up into a mini tree, rather like Rosemary bushes.

Kumquat – A Lot More Than A Beautiful Dwarf Citrus Tree

Kumquat is a dwarf citrus tree, whose hybrid varieties reach about 1.5-2 meters (4-6 ft) in height. It is well known not only as an attractive ornamental, but as a provider of excellent fruit for jams, marmalade and homemade confectionary. Kumquat, besides these functions, also has potential and value in another, seemingly unconnected direction. When we realize this, it becomes clear that it has a lot more to offer the family besides being an ornamental fruit tree. Before looking into and discovering this hidden potential, let’s deal first with its more prosaic qualities.

In design terms, Kumquat fulfills the important role of providing a vertical accent at a low height. As such, it is appropriate in scale to small flowerbeds, narrow spaces and restricted areas of ground cover; spaces where larger plants would be out of scale. Its fruit are not only edible, but highly decorative as well, supplying bright, orange or lime hues at seasons when color is often lacking.

In its design function as a dwarf tree, Kumquat has several advantages over other plant species of similar habit. It is extremely easy to grow, requiring just minimal pruning for shaping. Sometimes they are topiaried into spherical or conical shapes, at the expense of course of fruit production. Kumquats are excellent as container plants.

Kumquat thrives in hot summer climates that have cool winters. The hybrids are even hardy to light frosts. Overall, it is a classic plant for the Mediterranean garden. It does require regular watering through the dry months and porous soil high in organic matter. If supplied with generous amounts of compost and other organic amendments, there should be no need to apply chemical fertilizers. It grows well in a bed of organic mulch, while occasional visits from aphids and minimal damage from leaf minors should not in general necessitate the use of pesticides.

Kumquat’s hidden value

The great thing about these plants is that they are particularly attractive to very young children. The small scale and colorful fruit that are so easily accessible, allow children to adopt a Kumquat as “their” tree. A group can become “their” corner. Let the kids pick the fruit and see how the marmalade is made. This early association with one type of plant, could be the first stage in peeking their interest and stimulating deeper involvement in the garden as a whole. For in a world where children are so cruelly exposed to the conformist pressures of fashion and the peer group, the educational potential of horticulture should be enthusiastically embraced by thoughtful parents.

Sage, Lavender And The Role Of Silver-Leaved Plants In Garden Design

Plants that have colorful foliage are commonly found in ornamental gardens. Often or not, they are just thrown in without sufficient thought or consideration. They are most effective however, when their specific design potential is understood. This is true for a large number of garden plants whose foliage color is some variant of silver, grey or bluish-green.

Silver grey foliage is both typical and indicative of dry climates and arid conditions. Sage, Lavender, Santolina, and herbs or aromatic plants like Artemisia originate from the Mediterranean, while the silver–leaved bush Leucophyllum frutescens grows wild in Texas. (it is known locally as Texas Ranger) The leaf size of such plants is characteristically small, narrow and delicate in texture.

Therefore, in stylistic terms, grey-leaved plants are most suited to Mediterranean-type gardens, associating well with olive and Cypress trees, junipers, small-leaved shrubs like Pistachio and Sumac, herbs and cushion plants. Small, grey-leaved grasses like Festuca glauca can serve as a subtle transition between silvery-grey plants and a group of larger ornamental grasses such as Pennisetum and Miscanthus. They blend beautifully with blues, lilacs and pinks and enhance the effect created by ornamental pebbles.

Another role for silver plants is as a sharp contrast with plants that have deep purple foliage. The Dusty Miller plants, Centaurea cineraria, or Senecio cineraria, can be quite dramatic against a background of Prunus pisardii, or Euphorbia cotinifolia. Similar effects can be created when they are combined with reds and oranges. It is here though that the inexperienced tend to get carried away. Contrast plants should be used sparingly and judiciously, with green being the dominant foliage color.

Grey plants do not combine well with obviously tropical plants. Typically, plants of tropical origin are deep green and possess large, sometimes massive leaves. Bird of Paradise and Philodendron “Beefy” are but two examples, with which silver plants appear incongruously out of place.

Grey colored foliage can be found amongst all the different plant groups. From trees such as Russian Olive, (Elaeagnus angustifolia) varieties of Juniper like “Grey Owl”, shrubs, herbs and prostrate ground covers. Amongst the latter, suitable for small areas, are Dichondra argentea, and the sensational Lotus berthelotti (Parrots Beak)

Garden irrigation – Why It’s So Important To Grow And Water Different Plant Groups Separately

Effective irrigation and efficient water management are about supplying suitable quantities of water to the garden plants, at the right intervals. Both these parameters differ in accordance with various groups of plants. Trees and shrubs of tropical origin may thrive on soil conditions that are almost permanently moist, while species from dry climates invariably prefer the soil to dry out somewhat between the waterings. Herbaceous flowering plants need to be watered frequently, while under such a regime, herbs are liable to suffer from a lack of air in the root zone.

The cardinal rule of garden irrigation is therefore to install separate lines for the different groups of plants that make up the garden. While sprinklers are used for lawn irrigation, drip irrigation is more suitable for the rest of the garden plants. Needless to say, both have to be separated from each other, to avoid them being operated together.

In addition, separate taps for drip irrigation should be installed for those groups of plants that have different watering requirements. The greater the separation, the more accurately one can calculate the quantities needed and fix the intervals between each watering. For example, in a hypothetical garden in Southern California, entirely independent lines would be installed for the shaded beds containing ferns and tropical fruit trees, the mass of water–conserving shrubs and landscaping trees, the herb garden planted in a bed of pebbles, and the annual flowers growing in pots.

Professional irrigation therefore has two principle sides. It aims to provide optimal growing conditions to the garden plants, while using as little water as possible. Does all this though have to be at the expense of the beauty of the garden? As it happens, grouping plants together that have similar water requirements also makes good design sense. In other words, plants that grow in similar habitats tend to look good together, while the opposite is also true. Here are some examples that clearly illustrate the point.

*Olive trees and date palms grow in radically different habitats, yet they are often planted together in Mediterranean gardens. Now ask yourself; do they go well together?

*I’ve seen the massively –leaved Philodendron “Beefy”, an archetypal tropical plant, planted next to the fine-leaved Pyracantha, a Mediterranean species. The look is totally incongruous. As one would expect, the tropical Philodendron requires an entirely different irrigation regime from that needed by Pyracantha.

*On the other hand, herbs like Rosemary and Lavender associate perfectly in visual terms with other arid and semi-arid plants like Junipers, Pistachios, Sumacs and Pomegranate. All can be grown on a similar and limited water regime, typified by deep, occasional soakings. In fact, it is not by chance that this is the case. All possess the small leaves typical of a climate where the plants reduce water loss by restricting the surface area of the organ (the leaf) through which water evaporates into the atmosphere.

Garden Irrigation – How Often Do You Need To Water?

Regular watering is an integral part of successful gardening in any region that has long, hot dry summers, such as in Southern California, the Middle East, or South West Australia. Regular watering should not entail opening the taps every day or so, or whenever the plants look tired and dry. There is neither the water available for that, nor is it usually best for the garden plants. An appropriate irrigation regime involves understanding the importance of maintaining a proper balance in the soil between air on the one hand, and moisture on the other. With insufficient water, the plant withers and dies, while with insufficient air available in the soil, the roots cannot breathe. In principle, “how often should I water?” is a question of correctly applying that understanding.

Assuming that the soil has adequate drainage, the next most significant factor is the frequency by which water is applied. Light, sandy soils drain excellently, but retain water poorly. It follows that the intervals between each watering have to be relatively short. Conversely, heavy, clay soils possess good water retention properties but drain slowly. As the greater the length of time that the soil is saturated with water, the less air is available to the plants’ roots, watering intervals should be relatively wide. As we shall see with some of the following examples, it is often best to make those intervals as long as possible.

Plants that grow naturally in arid regions are often or not particularly sensitive to low oxygen percentages in the soil. Situations where the top soil layers are permanently moist are liable to cause roots to rot, or at the least, not to develop properly. Many fine ornamental trees and shrubs, such as Melaleuca, Eucalyptus, Callistemon, Leucophyllum , Olive and Cypress, belong to this category. In clay soils, watering once a month (sometimes less frequently) through the summer, is often sufficient for established plants, providing that enough water is applied so that it reaches down to at least 50 cm, (1.5 feet) preferably I meter. Frequent but deep soakings also play the crucial role of leaching excessive salts from the soil.

Most lawn varieties grown in hot, dry, summer climates are heat resistant species. They are not drought resistant however, and of course require regular irrigation. In heavy soils, the interval for established lawns can be over 2 weeks, although 1 week to 10 ten days is preferable for private gardens. The interval for sandy soils can be between 3-5 days. Delaying the watering involves virtually no risk to the mature, healthy lawn. On the contrary, not only does the gap allow air to be present in the soil, but it encourages the deep-rooting species like Bermuda grass, to grow into the sub soil. Such lawn types recover quickly from small doses of drought stress.

Herbal plants are with some exceptions largely of Mediterranean origin or grow naturally in similar habitats. Oregano, Sage, Artemisia, Rosemary and Lavender, to name but a few, all respond well to properly – drained soil, and suffer from boggy, anaerobic conditions. As they do not need be watered as deeply as trees and shrubs, the intervals should be correspondingly shortened.

Herbaceous flowers, whether annual or perennial, have to be watered very frequently on the other hand. In very light soils, those with very small percentages of clay, watering might have to be as often as once a day, whereas in very heavy soils, it may be possible to stretch it out to 3-5 days between each watering.

You may well ask - “What should I do if my flowers are mixed up with the trees and shrubs?” The short answer is that you have to water according to the needs of that plant group that require water most urgently. The more involved answer though is that it is impossible to irrigate intelligently, if different plant groups with entirely different watering needs, are planted together and watered from the same irrigation line.

Pruning Evergreen Trees In The Spring – Important Tips For The Home Gardener

Spring is the principle season for pruning evergreen trees. In adopting a correct approach to the task, the gardener should be focusing on two separate but connected matters. On the one hand, we are interested in the tree growing in the desired manner, all the while recognizing that pruning is liable to seriously affect the future long-term health and survival of the tree. In this regard, we should never forget that the tree stands unmatched as the single most significant and precious feature in the garden.

Pruning trees for shaping depends mainly on the natural growth habit of the species concerned. At one extreme, there are the plants whose natural shape is so strongly defined that pruning, at least for shaping purposes, is unnecessary. Two examples are Palms and Cypress trees. At the other end of the scale are trees such as Hawthorn or Elm, which tend towards a wild, untidy habit. Many, if not most garden species, require at least some pruning.

A golden rule for shaping purposes is to avoid shortening branches, because this “stops” the natural direction in which the branch is growing. Instead, limbs that are earmarked for removal should be cut back to the trunk or thicker branch to which they are attached. In time, it appears that nothing has been pruned at all. This does not have to apply though to young stems that in some species shoot forward as long, but thin leaders. Such a growth pattern is common amongst citrus trees for example, and there is no harm in clipping these leaders, in order to encourage lateral growth.

It is important to remove at the juvenile stage, those stems that are clearly liable to be troublesome when they thicken over the years into mature branches. The most obvious candidates for early removal are stems that grow parallel to the trunk, or whose angle to the trunk is too small. Pruning out a young stem is often a matter of a quick snip with the secateurs. Attempting to saw a thick branch however, is not only time-consuming (the lesser problem by far) but will almost invariably result in a pruning wound which will become a source of rot and decay.

It is natural to believe that our hands are the principle part of the human anatomy by which we prune trees. This is utterly wrong! Professional gardeners do not prune with their hands, but rather with their eyes. Thought as usual precedes deed. Always have a clear idea as to which branches are to be pruned before even touching the saw or secateurs. Secondly, after removing one branch, do not proceed to the next, but put the tools down, step back from the tree and look at what you’ve done, revising your initial plan if necessary.

From the angle of the plant’s health, two crucial points should be recognized. Firstly, removing excessive material at one session can seriously reduce the energy level of the tree. Arboriculturists have reduced the whole complex of tree care to a matter of maintaining a positive energy gradient within the specimen. As a rule of thumb, one may remove, as an absolute upper limit, one third of the volume of the tree. To be safe however, I recommend pruning no more than half that figure. If there are many branches to prune, then it is best to stagger the work over a couple of seasons.

Secondly, the pruning wound should be as small as possible in relation to the width of the trunk. Large pruning cuts do not heal properly, even if the wound appears to have completely calloused over. The result is bacterial or fungal infections that lead to rot and decay within the heart of the tree. In cases where the branch to be removed is too thick in relation to the trunk, it can be shortened to a stub of a about a meter in length, (3 feet) and sliced back further every few months, as though it were a salami or cucumber. This has the effect of retarding the thickening of the branch, and while the trunk continues to thicken over a few years, its diameter remains the same. Consequently, when the final pruning cut is made, the wound will be of an appropriate size relative to the width of the trunk.

Landscape Trees – 4 Excellent Species For A Private Mediterranean Climate Garden

Many people choose trees for their private garden based on flower color and fruit. While both these are desirable ingredients in a garden, they are not necessarily the best grounds for preferring one species over another. A well-chosen landscaping tree is essentially one whose form, shape, size and leaf texture, provide shade and in visual terms, plays a specific and dominating role in the garden composition. Counter intuitive as it may be, flowers and fruit are better considered as a bonus and not as the most important, let alone the only criterion on which to base a decision.

Here are four examples of fine landscape trees that are particularly suitable for small private gardens, if not tiny ones, in a dry, Mediterranean climate. I have deliberately singled out species that are neither noted for their spectacular blooms, nor for providing edible fruit, but instead as beautiful shapes in the landscape. All, as it happens are deciduous.

Celtis australis (Hackberry)

Hackberry simply has a beautiful form, light grey bark, which becomes warty in age, and a uniquely delightful leaf texture. A fine specimen is a splendid piece of architecture to behold. It grows at a moderate rate to about 12 meters (30-40 feet) and so is unsuited to very small backyards. The roots on the other hand are not aggressive, and so it can be planted safely close to buildings. Hackberry’s blooms are completely insignificant, but it has decorative, berry-like fruit, and in cold areas, lovely leaf color in the autumn.

Koelreuteria bipinnata (Chinese Flame Tree)

Koelreuteria is a fast growing tree that reaches to about 8 meters (25 feet) in Mediterranean climates; possibly more in warm winter ones. Its roots are not aggressive. Unlike the Hackberry, it requires careful pruning to achieve the satisfying, open shape for which it is famed. It sports pretty, yellow flowers in the summer, followed by very decorative fruits that resemble oriental lanterns. It is not noted for particularly wonderful fall color.

Sapium sebiferum (Chinese Tallow Tree)

For phenomenal autumn color, Chinese Tallow is probably unmatched in the mild winters typical of Mediterranean climates. It grows to about 10-12 meters, with a distinctly round or conical canopy. In terms of its natural shape, Sapium could be considered a substitute for Ash species that are generally too large for small plots. While excellent in dry climates, it is becoming an invasive pest close to rivers and in wetter areas. Flowers and fruit are not especially significant.

Melia azedarach (Chinaberry)

Chinaberry grows very quickly to about 12 meters or so. The most beautiful specimens are those that grow to a flat, umbrella shape, but as form is highly variable within the species, it is not always possible to be certain as to the final shape of the mature tree. The leaves are a deep green, finely toothed, and provide a delicate, almost feathery texture. For this reason, the tree combines well with ornamental grasses. Chinaberry’s lilac flowers are followed by decorative fruit. It can self sow and become a pest in wet areas, but this is not usually a problem in the long, dry summers of a Mediterranean climate.

The smaller the garden space, the more important it becomes to choose a tree according to landscaping criteria and not be carried away by the showy blooms of a species that may be totally unsuitable for a particular plot. Try to think shape, size and form first, and allow the shrubs and herbaceous plants in the garden to be the principle suppliers of color.

School Gardening – How Horticultural Work Can Bolster A Young Person’s Self-Esteem

You do not have to be a child psychologist to recognize the link between self-esteem and achievement. While not every one can be an Albert Einstein or a Tiger Woods, every child, the severely challenged excepted unfortunately, can attain reasonable standards of proficiency in virtually all subjects and activities. There are basically two things holding back the vast army of under-achievers. One is peer group pressure and the other is a lack of self-belief. The two obviously feed off each other, because the emotional independence that stems from a healthy sense of self worth, is the only real weapon that can resist the tyrannical pressure to conform.

How though can a routine of horticultural activity help to change the pattern? Does gardening really have the potential to be part of a process that builds the children from within? A look at two principle aspects of gardening – growing things and creating beautiful compositions, indicate how this can indeed be the case.

The experience of successfully growing a group of plants cannot fail to give immense satisfaction to anyone involved. After nearly 25 years of gardening, I’ve yet to meet a person who does not take pride in their involvement in a tree, flowerbed, vegetable patch, or hedge that grows well and looks really good. Now let’s take a 12 year old, until now, a chronic under-achiever with a strong sense of failure, involved in the school’s garden project. She participated in all the processes concerned; preparing the soil, composting, raking and feeding, planting and watering. Together with her classmates, she’s tended “her” vegetables and herbs. Then, the plants start to look great, and taste even better. The head teacher has even publicly commended her for her outstanding achievement.

It could be argued that sports also provide a vehicle for academically poor children to succeed at something. Indeed, it is now recognized that beyond the value of physical exercise, involvement in sports contributes to a person’s mental health, which one imagines, concerns the development of self-esteem. The difference is that horticulture inevitably demands knowledge and an understanding of theory. It is almost an umbilical chord, linking the practical with the intellectual. A gardener always learns something of a theoretical nature, whether it be plant nutrition, pathology or color schemes. It is no exaggeration to say that good gardeners are always thirsty for knowledge.

The other great gift that horticulture has to offer is the opportunity to gather knowledge of design theory and to develop an aesthetic sense. This can happen formally and systematically, or even spontaneously. Perhaps children who have been touched by the inner experience of a harmonious composition or the splendor of a magnificent old tree, are less susceptible to the dictates of fad and fashion. The point is not to pass judgment on any particular fashion – maybe pins stuck through nostrils will be seen in years to come as the finest expression of aesthetic charm – but to take note of the fact of conformity and peer-group pressure, and their often pernicious consequences.

Garden Irrigation – Which Type Of Electronic Water Timer Is Best For A Private Garden

The installing of a professional, automatic irrigation system is a pre-condition for successful gardening in a dry climate. Less obvious perhaps is that such a system is an essential part of proper water management, which aims to use this precious resource as efficiently and responsibly as possible. As a suitable electronic water timer is a vital ingredient of any decent watering system, the question arises as to which type has the features that help the gardener turn the goal of efficient water management into reality.

To answer that, we need to be clear as to what constitutes “efficient water management.” The correct use of water is similar to managing a budget. One should know how much is available for the year, and to plan consumption accordingly. For this reason, groups of plants with differing water requirements should be watered from separate taps. Clearly, established trees and shrubs which need two or three deep waterings a year, need to be independent of annual flowers that may need watering every three days or so.

It follows then, that the first requirement of an irrigation computer is to have at least as many stations as different plant groups. The more taps (stations) available, the greater the flexibility, and so the easier it becomes to supply the exact quantities required by the plants, and according to the appropriate interval between each watering. Therefore, the irrigation timer should not only feature different watering durations for each tap, but different frequencies as well. In this respect, the best timers are those that entirely separate each tap from each other, so that both duration and frequency can be independently programmed for each station.

Another important aspect to a water–conserving regime is to irrigate as infrequently as possible. Plants in heavy, clay soils generally grow better in the long run with occasional but deep watering, as opposed to shallow, frequent irrigation. It also helps to protect the soil from the potentially devastating affects of increasing salinity and the consequent creation of sodic soils. Watering infrequently develops drought-resistant properties in the plants, thereby making it possible to defer watering during the “in-between seasons” such as spring and autumn.

Electronic water timers should therefore allow for this. Timers that force you to water once every few days not only waste more water, but do not necessarily provide for optimal growing conditions for the garden plants either. Look instead for products that contain schedules of up to 30 days or more, so that the option of watering infrequently exists.

Every so often, some cheap product is pushed on to the market. Beware of these, for not only is their reliability liable to be doubtful, it is unlikely they possess the features necessary for efficient water management. Ultimately, the best irrigation computers operate according to the volumes of water that the system emits. These are extremely expensive however, and are generally practical for public or municipal gardens.