Oaks For Your Private Garden – Why You Should Consider Them As Landscape Trees

A great oak tree has the power to inspire and move us. You may have seen one in a park, or remember from childhood, a fine old specimen, with its massive branches and gnarled bark, growing in a wood. Yet despite their qualities as excellent landscape trees, homeowners rarely choose an oak for their private garden.

The main reason is probably due to the tendency of most people is to choose a tree that provides spectacular color from their showy blooms. Flower color usually catches the eye first, and so the home gardener is likely to say, “I must have that tree in my garden.” A great flowering tree can of course be an asset to the home and garden, but remember that the sight of a tree in full bloom is invariably a very short-term thing; a matter of 2 or 3 weeks perhaps. What happens then for the rest of the year? A wisely chosen landscape tree has to be right for the plot primarily in terms of scale, size, form, and shape, and be suitable for the prevailing growing conditions.

There are over 600 species of the genus Quercus, to use the oak’s botanical name. Their natural habitats range from the Mediterranean, the Far East, and both Eastern and Western United States. The species grown for horticulture could be evergreen or deciduous, demanding in their water requirements, or able to grow and thrive through long, dry, and hot summers without irrigation. The deciduous oak species provide wonderful color in the autumn, especially in cold winter climates, as their leaves turn to various shades of red and gold. Take care to choose the right species for your climate.

The species that grow wild in Southern California, Southern Europe and the Mediterranean region, are the most suitable for dry climate gardens. The cork oak, (Quercus suber) from North Africa and the Western Mediterranean, is a massive evergreen, with a highly decorative bark, while Q. frainetto from the Eastern Mediterranean is a fast growing deciduous tree reaching over 30 meters (90ft) in maturity.

The great thing about the dry climate oaks, is that they add so much to the landscape while consuming so little water, at least once established after a few of years. In fact, they are far more likely to succeed either with a very modest water regime, or without additional irrigation altogether. Under planting with garden ornamentals that demand constant watering, will retard the oaks, and possibly kill mature specimens, as the oak root fungus (Armillaria) thrives in damp, moist conditions. Instead of trying to grow herbaceous or ground cover plants beneath them, it is far better to spread organic mulches, making sure that neither the mulch nor soil, mounds up around the tree trunks.

In general, the various species of oak are hardy to pest insects. While they may attract a certain number, the health of the tree is rarely affected. On the contrary, both the trees and their acorns supply food for a wide variety of wildlife, thereby contributing to the ecological balance in the garden as a whole, and the consequent, complex system of natural pest control.

Garden Lawn Care In The Summer – The Extra Tasks For A Great Lawn

Adequate moisture, a porous soil, regular mowing, and sufficient nutrient levels are the basic requirements for growing a fine lawn. To ensure great results though, there remain a few things that should be done, and one or two that are not appropriate for lawn care during the summer.

On condition that the grass is growing vitally and looking green and healthy, professional lawn care involves filling out the dips and small depressions in the lawn, with either sand, or a mixture of sand and compost, known as top-dressing. Not only is this an excellent way of straightening out the grass, but the treated spots react very positively to the treatment, and tend to cover with grass in a couple of weeks or so. Please note that the sand must be thoroughly leached of salts. Light, sandy soil, well mixed with compost, can be used as an alternative.

The height at which the top-dressing can be spread differs according to the type of lawn. Grasses that grow from seed, such as the Fescues, should be treated gingerly, with only a thin layer being spread at any time. Some warm-climate perennial grasses, like Buffalo or St. Augustine, should not be smothered either. The tips of the grass blades should be visible through the sand. Therefore, when a relatively deep pit needs straightening, the job has to be carried out in stages, the top-dressing only being repeated, when the grass is clearly growing well through the initial layer.

Other perennial grasses, like Bermuda, Kikuyu and Zoysia varieties, grow by means of underground stems, known as rhizomes, which allow the species to recover from neglect, and also from being covered with a layer of sand, for a brief period of time. In fact, it is possible to spread the top-dressing mixture to a level of up to 10cm, (4in) providing of course that the grass is active and clearly growing strongly. It follows therefore, that this task should not be attempted during the lawn’s dormant season, or if it is in poor shape and growing weakly.

In such cases, the lawn needs rejuvenating before the top-dressing treatment is attempted. Other than insufficient moisture, an inadequate mowing regime, and possibly nutrient deficiency in the soil, soil compaction is usually the main reason for a poorly performing lawn. Compaction at the topsoil level can be relieved by a scarifying machine, (the tool with which de-thatching is carried out in the spring) while at deeper soil levels, an aerating instrument may have to be employed. Following these tasks, slow release fertilizer should be applied.

When maintaining a healthy lawn however, it is preferable not to fertilize during the summer, as excessive nitrogen levels encourage fungal infections, and unnecessarily, rampant growth. Feeding is best carried out in the spring and autumn, ideally with either slow release fertilizer, or an organic amendment.

Lawn Care – Regular Mowing Through The Summer For Excellent Results

In climates typified by long, hot, dry summers, it is not possible to grow a beautiful lawn without an automatic irrigation system, designed, installed, and operated to professional standards. Neither is success likely if certain essential, seasonal tasks are not carried out, especially dethatching in the spring, and feeding at the onset of autumn as well as in spring. There remain therefore the “ordinary” tasks that need to be routinely performed during the grass’s primary growing season – the summer.

The most essential job apart from watering, is mowing. A lush, green, healthy, and beautiful swathe cannot be attained without mowing that is both as regular as clockwork, and carried out at the correct height. Actually, the two go together, because infrequent, irregular mowing invariably entails that the lawn is cut at an inappropriate height.

At what height then should the grass be cut? One sometimes comes across guidelines detailing specific heights for different varieties; 6cm for St. Augustine, or 4cm for Bermuda grass, as though anyone actually measures the leaves with a tape measure before mowing! A simpler approach is to hold fast to a few golden rules, and to understand that consistently removing excessive amounts of green leaf significantly reduces the energy level of the plants.

*Never remove more than about 40% of the height of the leaf at any particular mowing. It is important here to emphasize the word leaf, for the stem, to which the leaf is attached, should never be mowed. Therefore, the height of the lawnmower’s blade should be set high enough to avoid cutting the stems.

*The grass should appear as green after mowing as it was beforehand. This is a very simple, but effective rule of thumb. If the lawn’s color is paler following the mowing, it means that the blade has been set too low, the grass has been scalped, and the stems exposed. This has serious consequences for the health and vitality of the lawn in the long term, although the degree of damage inflicted varies according to the variety of grass.

*Following these two rules leads automatically to the question of how frequently the lawn should be cut, for the longer the interval between mowing, the larger amount of leaf will be removed, and the greater the likelihood that the lawnmower’s blade will sink and scalp the grass.

*The correct mowing frequency is therefore one that avoids that happening. In practice, the interval differs from species to species, and even between lawns of the same variety that grow under different conditions. Lawns that grow rapidly clearly have to be mowed more frequently than those that do not. So it may be necessary to mow every five days in certain circumstances, while a regime of once every 10 days may suffice in others. Remember that the greens on golf courses, the ultimate benchmark standard in turf management, are mowed at least once a day during the growing season.

Turf Irrigation – How To Save Water And Your Lawn During Drought Years

In climates that have long, hot, dry summers, the turf varieties most commonly used are perennial grasses that not only thrive in hot weather, but also develop deep and extensive root systems. These properties can be exploited to reduce water consumption in normal years, and to minimize it during drought years. With the suitable variety and correct irrigation practice, the lawn may look poor under the minimalist regime, but its root system should remain intact, allowing the grass to appear as it should when more water is available in better years.

Under regular circumstances, the amount of water calculated for any given irrigation, is the volume required per day, multiplied by the number of days between each watering. This interval differs for heavy, clay soils that retain water well, as opposed to light, sandy soils, which do not. Lawns growing in sandy soils may need watering every 3-5 days, while in clay soils the interval could be between 7-14 days. It is preferable to extend the interval as far as possible in order to encourage a deep root system, assuming that the species chosen has such properties. Lawns grown in this way are more able to withstand drought and reduced quantities of water.

Here is a way of using less water each time. Let’s say for example that we water our lawn every 10 days, and set the irrigation timer accordingly. The lawn appears green, lush, and healthy. Instead of setting the taps to open on the tenth day, we wait until the first signs of stress exhibited by the grass, which occur, say, after 12 days. From now on, we apply the same quantity but for 12 days instead of ten!

Now let’s take this a step further. Instead of watering when the first signs of stress appear, we wait until the grass really starts to brown-off. This may happen after a further 7-10 days or so, but the quantity supplied at the next watering is still that which is appropriate for a ten-day interval. The grass may look dire during that period, but it should recover after being irrigated, while little or no damage is inflicted on the roots. This is how a lawn can be saved during a drought year.

It must be made clear however, that such a regime is not suitable for all lawn types. To reiterate, it works with warm climate, perennial species, preferably with those that grow by rhizomes, (stems that grow horizontally, under the ground) such as the many varieties of Bermuda grass, Kikuyu, or Zoysia. Some of these examples may not be ideal from every point of view; Kikuyu for instance, is feared as a noxious weed in many places, but here we are only referring to water conservation. It is also assumed that the method presented here should only be attempted on established lawns.

Watering Lawns During The Summer In Mediterranean And Dry Climate Gardens

Regular watering is the most important pre-condition for successfully maintaining a lawn through the long, hot, dry summer in Mediterranean climates. With the specific, spring tasks hopefully completed, such as feeding and de-thatching, and together with regular mowing, the key to lawn care is a matter of appropriate watering.

In dry climates, to give the grass the amount of water it needs to be lush, green, and beautiful, it is necessary to reduce its area. Lawns in Mediterranean climates require between 750 and 1000mm of irrigation water per year. (750mm = 750 liters per square meter) so the smaller the lawn, the greater the chance of supplying it with the water it needs.

Automatic sprinkler systems are the only effective means of both achieving satisfying results and managing the water resource efficiently. Ideal coverage is attained when the spray from one sprinkler reaches the other adjoining sprinkler. It is a mistake to place the sprinklers at a distance whereby the sprays from each meet in the middle.

On the other hand, water should be applied at a rate at which it can be absorbed by the soil, without wastage from run-off. This necessitates the use of nozzles that have a low flow rate, meaning those that emit relatively small volumes of water per unit of time, expressed in liters or gallons per hour. In order to achieve as even a distribution of water as possible, sprinklers that cover smaller areas, like those placed in the corners of the lawn, should have lesser flow rates than those covering larger areas.

With regard to quantities, ideally, volumes should be calculated according to the evaporation rates for any particular location according to the month of year. These can be obtained from local meteorological stations. Perennial, warm, climate grasses need about 50% of the daily evaporation rate, although only in rare cases is it necessary to water everyday day. On the contrary, established, perennial lawns perform better in the long run, when the interval between waterings is spaced out as far as possible.

An alternative method of determining the amount of water at any time is to insert a pole into the soil in order to measure the depth to which the moisture has reached, after a measured period of time. Bearing in mind that some of the lawn types suitable for hot, dry climates can send roots down to a depth of a meter (3ft), it follows that watering can be deferred even if the topsoil layers have dried out. Perennial varieties like Bermuda grass, Zoisia, and Kikuyu, if established, can suffer a certain amount of neglect and recovery nicely after watering, without incurring any long-term damage.

To save water, irrigation is best carried out in the absence of wind, and to avoid encouraging fungal infections, shortly before dawn. From this point of view, the early evening is the very worst time to turn on the sprinklers, as the long period of 100% air humidity is the ideal breeding ground for harmful fungi. It follows therefore, that installing an automatic timer, is not a luxury, but rather an essential tool for lawn care in a hot, dry climate.

Garden Weeds – Proudly Presenting The Worst Weed In The World!

The most problematical garden weed that I am familiar with, could quite easily be the star of some dreadful sci-fi horror movie. Commonly known as Dodder, its botanical name is Cuscuta. Originally from North America, it has spread to Europe, the Mediterranean countries and beyond. If you’ve ever seen yellow or reddish string-like filaments, wrapping themselves around low–growing plants, then you’ll know what I’m talking about. Cuscuta has been known to ruin complete crops – it could ruin your garden.

To understand just how creepy Dodder is, you have to know how it grows. Cuscuta is a parasitic plant, that twines itself around host plants, and by way of suckers, draws water, mineral and organic nutrients from the host. It spreads from host to host, by the afore-mentioned, thin filaments, which elongate continuously throughout the summer growing season.

As rapidly as it spreads vegetatively, it flowers and sets seed with incredible vigor. After dispersal, the seeds germinate on moist ground, whereupon the seedling “looks for” a host to parasite on. This is the only stage in its life cycle when it is capable of independent existence, for as soon as a host plant is found, its roots die, and from that point on, as a parasite, it lives entirely off the host. What a pity Alfred Hitchcock did not make a film about this plant!

Which of your garden plants are vulnerable? Cuscuta will parasite on virtually all herbaceous plants with the exception of grasses, as well as sub-shrubs and semi-woody plants. Fortunately it cannot climb up trees or shrubs.

Within just a few days after germination, the Dodder filaments start to grow on neighboring plants, providing they are suitable hosts. Unless acted upon very quickly, the whole flowerbed can be smothered. It can happen after less than two weeks of neglect. Therefore, at the first sign of infection, it’s necessary to cut the host plants down to the ground, and to collect and burn them. There is no point in trying to separate the garden plant from the Dodder, for from the tiniest fragment left on the plant, the filaments will rejuvenate almost immediately. Neither should the refuse be thrown on the compost pile, because Cuscuta seeds are hardy to the temperatures of even the steamiest pile.

As with most things, when it comes to weed control, prevention is better than cure. If Cuscuta is known to be a menace in your area, do not plant a garden bed before soaking the ground before hand. If Dodder seeds are present in the soil, existing weeds will be parasited very quickly. On the other hand if the area is clear of weeds, Dodder seedlings will die, as their existence, independent of a suitable host, is very brief. Secondly, always buy compost and plants from reputable suppliers and garden centers, as cheap, unreliable establishments, could easily be the source of the dreaded Dodder weed finding its way into your garden.

Weed Control – The Best Garden Plants Can Be The Worst Weeds!

When people hear the word “weed” they usually think of some nasty, ugly herbaceous plant ruining their flowerbed, such as bindweed or Mallow. Weeds are most commonly unwanted plants because they are deemed “ugly”. Actually any plant, wild or cultivated, is a weed if it is growing where it is unwanted. The worse types are those that are difficult to control. The very worst, are those that are virtually uncontrollable and as a result do tremendous damage not only to parks and gardens, but to the local environment as well.

In this latter category are many ornamental garden plants, from herbaceous perennials, to trees and shrubs. The problem is that they propagate themselves so vigorously, usually by prolific seed production and germination rates, that they not only sprout up everywhere within the garden, but are liable to escape into the surrounding countryside. Those species that establish themselves and start to spread are called invasive alien species. The affect on a local eco-system is liable to be catastrophic. Why is this so?

Non-native plants that are able to survive in the wild are likely to have a number of crucial advantages over native species. Over the millennia, complex associations develop between the mass of organisms, which control and regulate populations; predation and parasitism being an integral part of the eco-system. It often happens though, that alien species have no natural predators, or diseases and pests that keep their numbers down. Consequently, they start taking over a particular area, reducing and even eliminating the native species in the process. The once richly, varied habitat becomes the domain of a very limited number of plant species, which in turn devastates the fauna that had developed in association with the flora.

In Israel where I come from, a number of introduced plants have wreaked havoc with local habitats. Species of Acacia from Australia have taken over much of the Mediterranean coastline; Ailanthus altissima (Tree of Heaven) from China, is wiping out the native oak-pistachio communities in hilly country, while the decorative shrub, Lantana camara from America, is a major pest in gardens and beyond.

Similar problems are occurring all over the world. Apparently, California has also been “taken over” by the Tree of Heaven, while in many habitats in Australia, ornamental varieties of Melaleuca (splendid bushes!) are pushing out the native species of the same genus. Virtually all the culprits are escapees from agriculture or gardening.

The question is what can we, professional and home gardeners alike do about it? It is a question that we have to ask ourselves because unhappily, we are partly responsible for the problem. Modest steps in the right direction can be taken by refusing to plant those species that are suspected of being invasive. Make contact with local environmental groups for advice. We should also be reducing our appetite for new, exotic plants, because it can take years before the invasive properties of a particular plant become apparent.

African Daisy – Excellent Bedding Plants For An Arid Climate Garden

African daisy is the name commonly used to describe a group of different bedding plants. All come from South Africa, sport a mass of daisy-like flowers (unsurprisingly!), and require similar conditions to grow successfully. Daisy flowers, typical of the Asteraceae botanical family, create a clear mood and design direction. They appear out of place in lush, tropical settings, typified by plants with massive leaves and large garish flowers. They are more suited in my view to the sparser, restrained style of a Mediterranean, dry climate garden.

At least three genera answer to the name of African Daisy, with a number of species and varieties belonging to each genus. These are Arctotis, Osteospermum, and Dimorphotheca. All are hardy to light frosts, are fairly pest resistant, and must be grown in well-drained soil. While requiring regular water through the long hot summer, they do best, especially in heavy soils, with deep, occasional irrigation. Therefore, in their cultural needs, as well as in design terms, they associate better with Mediterranean type plants, than with tropical or sub tropical ones. All need full sun to flower.

Arctotis hybrids

The most common Arctotis found in gardens are hybrids that grow 30cm (1ft) high and wide. The foliage varies according to the variety from a dull green, to bluish-grey. The leaves are slightly rough and hairy. The symmetrical flowers are some 7cm (3in) wide, in shades of white, pink, yellow, orange, and red. Arctotis is most effective when massed as a ground cover, but is not to be relied on in cold-winter areas or boggy soil. The plants tend to become bare and leggy, so regular clipping is essential. My suggestion is to prune away the flowers even when about 25% remain on the plant.

Osteospermum fruticosum

This is a trailing plant to about 25cm (10 in) tall, covering about a meter in width. It is somewhat course and untidy in appearance, and so is unsuitable for small, intimate niches. It can be excellent though in spaces where a sprawling look is in order. The flowers are very similar in shape and size as those of Arctotis, coming in purple or white. To maintain bushiness, regular clipping is important, as is the occasional cutting-back to growing points towards the woody base of the plant. This should only be carried out during the growing season.

A taller version of this African Daisy is Osteospermum ecklonis. There are a number of varieties of this species available, most notably the relatively compact “Passion”. This variety has pink, purple, or white flowers, with sky blue centers.

Dimorphotheca sinuata

This African Daisy, sometimes known as cape marigold, is a fine annual for warm summer, and mild winter climates, creating a lovely floral display in white, pink or purple at the end of the winter and the spring. It could however, become invasive in certain areas.

African daisy plants associate best in the flowerbed with plants belonging to the same botanical family; the similar flower shapes creating unity in the garden composition. Excellent companions for them amongst others are Felicia, Bidens, Chrysanthemums, Gazania, and Brachycome.

Duranta – A Must Landscape Bush For A Mild Winter Garden

Duranta erecta is a fast growing shrub that reaches about 4-5 meters (20-25ft). With consistent pruning, it can be kept to lesser dimensions and so is suitable for small as well as larger gardens. Although originating from sub-tropical North America and Mexico, it is also suitable for those Mediterranean climates that do not experience winter frosts. It is known by a variety of common names such as Sky Flower, Golden Dew Drop, and Pigeon Berry.

There are a number of varieties belonging to the species, possessing a plethora of names, which seem to differ from place to place. They are all similar to each other however, and this makes it possible to grow different plants together, thereby creating a subtle variation on a theme.

In a number of small but significant ways, Duranta erecta has landscaping features that are almost unique to the species. From my experience, the shades of green are unmatched in the gardening world. The most common types possessing foliage of a very special medium hue, while some have lovely gold colored leaves.

They all have gorgeous, violet-blue flowers that though individually small, grow in a mass, creating a powerful effect. There is often though, considerable variation in this regard within the species. The blooms also appear at the same time as the tiny, orange berries, which hang down in panicles. The violet and orange together, makes for an unusual but attractive combination. There seems to be some confusion as to whether the berries are poisonous or not.

The medium leaf texture means that Duranta erecta associates well with trees and shrubs that have similar foliage. It therefore goes well with the usual Mediterranean type plants like Pistachio, Olive, Pomegranate, and Sumac, but less successfully in my opinion with the course leaves and large flowers common to plants like Hibiscus. A quite stunning effect can be created by combining the golden-leaved Durantas with grey-leaved shrubs like Leocophyllum, or with deep, purple-leaved bushes such as Cotinus.

In most garden situations, Duranta needs regular pruning and trimming to maintain bushy, compact growth. Care must be taken however, not to remove all the flower buds at the same time. With a little bit of sensitivity and common sense, this is not too hard to achieve, as the plant flowers so profusely through the summer. Alternatively, it can be limbed up as a small tree. To grow it on a single trunk is rather difficult, as the plant grows so rapidly, but it can easily be turned into a multiple-stemmed tree.

Attracting Birds To Your Garden Could Make Gardening More Attractive To Your Children!

One of the greatest gifts we can give children is to encourage them to develop a taste for gardening. Whether the children are our own at home, or in our charge at school, we should always be on the look out for ways of stimulating their interest. A fruitful and challenging step in this direction is to attract birds to the garden.

There are many reasons why people love to watch and study birds. Song, dance, courting, and nesting are all routines that have fascinated generations of bird watchers. Territorial behavior on the one hand and migratory visitations on the other are both rich and varied sources for study and examination. Why not include bird watching in the school curriculum or involve your own children in recording bird behavior in the family garden?

Ornithology is almost by definition a conservationist pastime. Bird watchers are invariably among the first to protest when a local habitat is in danger of destruction. As children become more expert at identifying the species that visit their home or school garden, or at recognizing a particular bird song, at least some sense of responsibility has to develop. After all, an environmentally conscious attitude is one that recognizes the connection between things; the relation between cause and effect.

In fact, a bird-friendly garden is a way of doing one’s bit for the environment. Gardens and parks are increasingly becoming a sanctuary for birds and other wildlife, squeezed out of their natural habitats by building and development. A little bit becomes quite a big bit when multiplied tens of thousands of times.

The beauty of turning your garden into a home for birds is that it is really quite easy to do. Even without getting involved with backyard feeders and birdbaths, your garden will attract birds if a few simple steps are taken. Firstly, plant a variety of shrubs and trees that produce fruit. They do not all have to be edible for humans. Secondly, and most crucially, desist from using chemical fertilizers and pesticides. In the long run, the health of the soil is enhanced by organic amendments, while the increasing range of flora and fauna keeps most pests in check. Birds of course are an essential ingredient of natural, pest-control.

It is sometimes possible to arouse a child’s interest without great declarations and long speeches. Perhaps the sight of a hummingbird hovering above the flowers in search of nectar and insects will do the job. In any case, a wide variety of flowering plants attract hummingbirds; from ground covers and herbaceous perennials, to trees and shrubs.

Children today are so vulnerable to the pernicious influences of fashion, and the vice like grip of peer group pressure, that an activity that helps to develop independence of mind and spirit ought to be viewed as a top priority. The wondrous thing about gardening in general and bird watching in particular, is that they both make a massive contribution to that very worthy end.

Pest Control – Why You Should Be Attracting Birds To Visit Your Garden

Birds should be considered principle allies of the gardener, in his or her efforts to control pest insects that damage the garden plants. Put simply, the more birds that visit the garden, either as permanent residents, or as temporary sojourners on their migratory path, the less the infestations of pest organisms.

It has been estimated that a bird and her mate, that nest twice a year, rearing about 10 chicks, consume the astonishing quantity of some 75 kg (150 pounds) of insects, including aphids, eggs, and caterpillars. This translates numerically into millions of insects. Of course, not all birds are primarily insectivores, but most species prey on insects at those times of the year when additional sources of protein are required.

Birds will not entirely eradicate pest insects from the garden. Actually, it is undesirable that they do so, because eradication is not the aim of intelligent pest management. Instead, the goal of the gardener should be to limit the population of pest and disease organisms to the point that the damage they inflict is tolerable.

There are two main reasons why this seemingly modest approach to pest control is the more generally accepted one today, as opposed to the more conventional approach based on the use of pesticides. Firstly, it is impossible to eliminate the insects for long. Applying pesticides is always short term, as many insect species produce over 20 generations in a year.

Meanwhile, the pesticides may eliminate predatory and parasitic insects that themselves control the pest populations. Furthermore, birds and other wildlife escape from an environment swimming in pesticides, resulting in less restraint on the pests in the future generations. Conversely, while there are a number of active steps to attract birds to the garden, such as providing food, and water for drinking and bathing, the most important method is to desist from applying pesticides, other than in the most extreme circumstances. It is best therefore not to see insects as enemies, but rather as a vital source of food for birds.

It could be argued that some birds themselves could be considered pests. In fact, there is hardly a species at all which directly damages plants. Even the woodpecker is only looking for bark insects and actually helps to reduce the numbers of these damaging pests.

The problem surrounds fruit trees and other crop plants, which some birds may devour at certain times of the year. This however, is not a good reason for discouraging birds to visit the garden. The answer is to protect the fruit by such means as netting or preferably by using decoy plants.

For this reason, as large a number and variety as possible of fruit bearing plants should be incorporated into the garden scheme. The idea is not to provide fruit for humans, but instead for the birds, thereby saving a good deal of the desirable fruit from being nibbled at by the birds. Examples include species of hackberry, juniper, oak, berberis, cotoneaster, pyracantha, viburnum and many more.

Solanum rantonnetii – A Worthy Substitute For Bougainvillea

If you are one of those people who would love a Bougainvillea in your garden, but are put off by its thorns, mess, and untidiness, then you may wish to consider planting Solanum rantonnetii as a replacement. Solanum rantonnetii is a medium to large shrub that has either white or deep purple flowers. While there are a number of Bougainvillea varieties, whose *flower* color include different hues of red and orange, purple is still the color most popularly associated with the plant.

Like Bougainvillea, Solanum rantonnetii flowers more or less continuously through the summer, but unlike its more illustrious associate, is far easier to handle and maintain. Many a small backyard garden has been ruined by a Bougainvillea taking over the space, while its viscous thorns threaten the family and visitors alike. By comparison, growing a Solanum bush while not completely easy, is definitely more manageable.

It reaches about 4 meters in height (12ft) and 3 meters (6ft) in width, but can be kept much smaller with pruning. The shrubs require regular clipping and pinching in order to keep them bushy and compact. With skillful attention, it can be topiaried into a spherical shape, without losing the bulk of its blooms. Therefore as a shrub, Solanum rantonnetii is far more suitable than Bougainvillea in small gardens.

There is of course little to compare to the vine-like Bougainvillea smothering a whitewashed wall or a tall fence. Yet Solanum can easily be trained as an espalier to perform a similar function, but without the need to be scratched and stabbed by the Bougainvillea’s thorns. While Solanum rantonnetii is far from litter-free, the mess it produces is insignificant compared to that of Bougainvillea.

The two plants require similar growing conditions to be at their best. Both thrive and bloom in hot weather, and while hardy to about -2c, are best grown in frost-free areas. While originating from tropical and sub-tropical America, both are hardy to some drought, and actually bloom more profusely when deprived of constant moisture.

The flower shape of Solanum rantonnetii is very distinctive, and unsurprisingly, typical of the botanical family (Solanaceae) to which it belongs. Some of the herbaceous plants in the flowerbed can therefore be chosen from the same family, in order to create unity in the garden composition. An excellent example of this would be the low-growing perennial, Nierembergia caeurlea, whose small cup-shaped, purple flowers are virtually identical to those of the Solanum. Similarly, some species of Morning Glory, such as Convolvulus sabatius, have flowers whose shape and size closely resemble the Solanum’s.

Solanum is a genus containing many species, the most famous of which include potato, tomato, and eggplant. The family as a whole is popularly known as the “deadly nightshade” family. Remember that many non-edible plants from the family are highly poisonous or allergenic.

*Take note: What are commonly called Bougainvillea flowers, are not actually flowers, but papery bracts that surround the true flowers.*

Jacaranda – A Great Landscape Tree For A Mediterranean And Warm Climate Garden

The sight of a Jacaranda tree in full bloom has to be one of the great sights in gardening. The tree is totally smothered in lavender blue flowers, as its principle flowering season is the middle of spring when most of its branches are still bare of leaves.

Growing wild in Brazil, Jacaranda is suitable for climates that have hot summers and mild winters. Indeed summer heat is a requirement for profuse blooming, while it is only hardy to winter lows of about -4c. It performs best in frost-free climates.

Jacaranda mimosifolia, to use its botanical name, is often planted in small backyard gardens. This is generally speaking a mistake. People can get so carried away by its spectacular performance in flower, that they forget that it rapidly outgrows a small plot. In the right climate, it reaches 12-15 meters in height (35-45ft) and about 7-10 meters in width.(20-30ft) It is suitable therefore for medium to large gardens where it has space to grow. Its roots are also fairly aggressive, and so the tree should not be planted too close to the house.

The species, as its dimensions imply, is fine as a shade tree, but thought should also be given to its potential as a focal point in the garden. Jacaranda’s seasonal flower display can be so overwhelming, that it ought to be strategically placed for maximum effect.

It has fern-like foliage, and so can set the tone for a light textured, feathery motif in the garden composition. Shrubs should be chosen baring this point in mind, meaning that landscape bushes that have large, course textured leaves should be avoided. Examples of plants that associate well with Jacaranda are trumpet vine shrubs, such as Stenolobium stans, Tecoma capensis, Calliandra, and a variety of ornamental grasses.

Jacaranda mimosifolia grows quite rapidly, and is not particularly easy to maintain. Judicious pruning is essential, at least in the first few years after planting. Branches frequently grow at narrow angles to the trunk and need removing before they become troublesome. Branches must never be shortened as this only induces a group of new stems to sprout from the pruning cut. These are the potentially dangerous branches in nine or ten year’s time. Instead, limbs earmarked for removal, should be carefully pruned at the base of the trunk or branch to which they are attached.

The tree tends to litter quite badly. The fallen flower petals can make a decorative covering on the ground, but they are somewhat sticky, and together with the falling seed capsules, can be a nuisance in the vicinity of parked cars or swimming pools.

The case of the Jacaranda tree exemplifies the principle that landscape trees should not be chosen on the strength of their flower display alone. The tree has to be suitable in terms of scale, cultural requirements, and its association with the rest of the plants in the garden. When these criteria are answered satisfactorily, the species can then be considered for inclusion in the scheme.

Drip Irrigation – The Three Factors That Mean Success Or Otherwise

Other than lawns, watering the garden plants by means of drip irrigation is unquestionably more effective than by sprinklers and more efficient in terms of water management. Roughly speaking, drip irrigation, if installed and applied correctly, can save at least 20% of the water that is lost in run-off, especially where trees and shrubs are concerned. However, the great benefits of drip irrigation are often not attained by the home gardener, because three aspects are not addressed properly.

Working at the correct pressure

Drip irrigation should operate at as low a pressure as possible. In small, private gardens, a pressure of about 1.5 bars is appropriate. For this purpose, a pressure regulator ought to be installed at the system’s head unit.

Very often, the drippers at the end of the line barely emit water. The reason is usually that the dripper line itself is too long and not because of insufficient pressure to begin with. A common mistake is to snake a line or two around the plants, instead of the correct method, which is to connect several shorter lines to a feeder or supply pipe. For most home garden situations, each dripper line should not be longer than about 15 meters, (45ft) and a lot less with micro-drippers.

Correct Spacing

It is best to use integrated lines, where the drippers are inserted at fixed intervals by the manufacturer. Distances of between 0.5m to 1m are appropriate for trees, shrubs and most ground covers, whereas an interval of 0.3 m (1ft) is usually necessary for flowers.

Likewise, the dripper lines should be parallel to each other and as evenly spaced as possible. However, the distance between the lines does not have to equal the distance between the drippers. In heavy soil for instance, where drops of water spread laterally, if the drippers are spaced at 0.5m then the lines can be laid 0.75m or even 1m from each other. Alternatively, in light, sandy soil, through which water tends to move vertically, the spacing between the rows ought to be closer.

The aim is to apply water at a rate at which it can be absorbed by the soil, while supplying an even cover of moisture for the plants’ roots. For this reason, it is important to know the flow rate of the individual drippers. It is best to choose those with the lowest flow rate available (flow rate is the volume of water emitted per unit of time) especially in heavy, clay soils and on slopes. For flowers, where complete coverage is usually necessary, it is wise to use micro-drippers, where the flow rate of each unit is 1 liter per hour.

Care and maintenance

Blockages are the main problem associated with drippers. Firstly, a filter designed for drip irrigation should always be installed. Secondly, it is wise to flush the lines once or twice a year. This from my experience can extend the lifespan of the system to some 10-15 years, whereas failure to carry out this simple procedure is liable to result in blockages after 2-3 years. Ultimately, the drippers will block up from the mineral deposits that accumulate over time.

Why Drip irrigation Is The Best Way Of Watering Your Garden Plants

While automatic sprinkler systems are the most effective way of watering a lawn, drip irrigation, some drawbacks notwithstanding, is the preferred method for the rest of the garden plants. The essential difference between the two is that sprinklers throw water indiscriminately over the area they cover, as opposed to drippers that emit water in designated spots. Judging by the fact that sprinklers are still widely used for watering flowerbeds, trees and shrubs, it seems that the advantages of drip irrigation are not sufficiently clear to many gardeners. Before dealing with these, let’s outline first the disadvantages involved with drippers.

*Installing a drip irrigation system is more expensive than a sprinkler system in terms of materials and labor. Furthermore, the life span of the dripper lines is limited to about 10 - 15 years - sometimes a lot less if periodic flushing is not carried out. While it’s necessary to replace the actual sprinkler heads now and again, the underground piping ought to last well beyond a lifetime.

*The sight of irrigation pipes strewn on the ground is neither pleasing nor aesthetic. In addition, dripper lines are often damaged by birds or rodents, and periodic maintenance of the system is more demanding than for sprinklers. These last problems can be overcome however, by spreading an organic mulch over the pipes.

Despite the drawbacks, the overall advantages gained by using drippers are overwhelming, especially in the matter of water conservation. In fact the use of drip irrigation is vital if the term “water conservation” is to be upgraded from a slogan to a reality. Assuming that the system is installed and operated correctly, how can it save water in comparison to watering with sprinklers?

*Sprinkling water on the bare earth between the shrubs and trees causes a good deal of run-off, meaning that a considerable proportion of the water emitted cannot be taken up by the plants. This problem is particularly acute on slopes and gradients. Drip irrigation on the other hand, emits water at a rate at which it can be absorbed by the soil.

When it comes to trees and shrubs, there is no need in any case for water to cover the entire area. Drippers spaced at constant intervals, say 0.5 m × 1.0 m (1.5 ft × 3 ft) that is 0.5 m between the drippers, and 1.0 m between the lines, will supply water evenly and sufficiently for the roots to take up. Furthermore, shrubs and bushes prevent some of the water from reaching the ground, while drippers ensure that all the water applied, percolates down to the root zone.

*Sprinkling on bare earth, rather like heavy rainfall, causes mechanical damage to the structure of the topsoil. Organic mulch solves this problem of course, but at the expense of wasting water, because the mulch layer itself absorbs much of the water that is emitted. With drippers however, all the benefits of mulch are attained without a similar waste of water.

Although water conservation is the primary reason for adopting drip irrigation, the method has other important benefits.

*The rate of weed germination is significantly reduced as dry areas are interspersed between the moist ones.

*The majority of pest and disease organisms thrive in humid, warm conditions. Sprinkling on warm evenings for example, means that the air around the plants’ foliage is saturated with moisture until the early morning sun, reduces the humidity somewhat. This is great for fungi such as powdery mildew, but disastrous for many garden plants, especially for rose bushes. Watering by means of drippers does not seriously raise the humidity in the crucial vicinity of the plants’ foliage.

Conversely, it is sometimes argued that a splash of water on the leaves is beneficial for washing off dust, and for reducing infestations of organisms like spider mites, that prefer dry conditions. All this is true but does not justify the use of sprinklers, as the occasional use of the garden hose, (carried out in the early morning!) is usually enough for these purposes.

Ground Cover Plants – A Wonderful Combination For Small Spaces

Not all ground cover plants are suitable for small spaces such as narrow beds bordering paths or entrances to houses. In small, intimate spaces, the plants chosen should be visually delicate, of fine leaf texture, and soft to the touch. Here is a group of such plants that not only fit the bill individually, but combine together beautifully to make a very satisfying garden composition.

*Lotus berthelotii (Parrot’s Beak) is very low growing, with extremely fine, soft, silvery foliage and striking thin, red flowers. A similar species, L .malculatus has a variety called “Gold Flash”, named after its orange/yellow blooms. Lotus can cover about 70 cm (2ft) and so is suitable in places where spilling over on to the path is acceptable.

*Dichondra argentea is also silver in color, but while its foliage is delicate in form and texture, the small leaves are round in shape. This creates a gentle contrast with Parrot’s Beak. One should be clear as to which species should numerically dominate the other, for to plant them in equal numbers would be mistaken in my view. Considering that Lotus degenerates where there is poor drainage, it might be safer to bank more on the Dichondra, using the Lotus in small splashes.

*Erodium reichardii (Cranesbill) has even smaller leaves than Dichondra argentea, but the mounding, cushion shape of the plant enhances the roundish motif. Reaching about 15 cm in height, its leaves are a pale green in color, while tiny blooms smother the plant throughout the year. One can choose between white or pink flowers; the later while being delightful in themselves, do not necessarily go well with the “hot” colors of the Lotus. The white flowering varieties are probably a better choice in such circumstances.

The three species have similar growing requirements in common. All can be grown in full sun, although the Cranesbill prefers light shade in hot locations. Lotus berthelotti on the other hand, needs full sun in order to flower, but can look excellent as ground-covering foliage plant in light shade. The soil should be well prepared before planting, with plenty of compost and other organic amendments. Good drainage is essential, especially for the Lotus. A watering regime therefore, should avoid permanently moist, soil conditions. It is best to allow the topsoil to dry out to some extent between waterings.

As prostrate plants, these species will be most effective when combined with a few plants that provide a vertical accent. The latter themselves ought to be very low growing and visually, have a light, delicate texture. Excellent examples would include Festuca, Liriope, and Ophiopogen. Similarly, some of the shrubs and bushes chosen for neighboring beds, could also possess feathery leaves, in order to create a link with the ground covers.

Growing Roses In Dry Climates – Preconditions For Success

There are a number of decisions of a design nature that determine whether or not your roses will look good. There are also special seasonal tasks, such as pruning, that are essential for success. But sandwiched between the two, are the basic cultural requirements that have to be met in order to get the most from the rose bushes. These requirements could be termed the preconditions for success.

Choosing the right location.

Roses require exposure to at least six hours of direct sunlight in hot Mediterranean climates, mostly in the morning. In regions with less light intensity, they probably need more. Roses should not be planted under trees, not only because of the shade, but also because they compete poorly with the trees’ roots. For the same reason, they should not be planted too close to shrubs either.

While roses can thrive in hot, dry climates, they suffer in warm, humid ones. Gardeners can unintentionally create excessive humidity, by planting the bushes where there is insufficient movement of air, or by placing the plants too close to each other. Whatever the cause, humid conditions are ideal breeding grounds for fungi that plague roses, such as powdery mildew. It is important therefore to know the width of the plants’ growth, and to fix the distance between the roses, accordingly. Do not be tempted to over-plant.

Soil conditions

To grow well and flower profusely, roses need highly porous soil. If the earth is clumpy and hard, it must be broken up and improved with massive quantities of compost. In either very heavy, clay soil, or alternatively, extremely light, sandy soil, some 60 liters per square meter, is by no means excessive. In medium, loamy soils on the other hand, about 20 liters should suffice.

While many wild species of rose are of Mediterranean origin and even harsher Central Asian climates, the cultivated varieties that make up the bulk of garden specimens are not especially drought resistant. In areas without summer rain, it is essential to supply them with regular water. Unquestionably, drip irrigation is preferable to overhead sprinklers, because not only do the latter waste more water, but they add 100% humidity into the bargain! Never forget that an improper watering regime is liable to deplete the soil of oxygen; a condition to which roses are particularly sensitive.

Mulching the soil

Covering the soil with an organic mulch helps to reduce water loss, retard weeds, and perhaps most crucially in hot climates, moderate the temperature at the topsoil level. In my view, mulching with an aesthetically pleasing material like wood chippings is preferable, design wise, to under planting the rose bushes with flowers. While in cultural terms, infinitely improved growing conditions are attained, without the roses having to contend with any competition from rival plants.