Chrysanthemum – Excellent Perennials with Landscaping Uses as well as Flower Color

Chrysanthemum is a large genus containing both perennial and annual species and many garden varieties. While the annuals are grown for their flowers, a number of perennial species can fulfill useful landscaping functions as well as adding color to the garden. Prominent amongst these is the shrubby, Chrysanthemum frutescens, known commonly as Marguerite or Paris Daisy.

Chrysanthemum frutescens grows to about 30cm high (12in) and about meter (3ft) wide. Its daisy flowers are typically white with yellow centers, but a number of varieties sport delightful pink blooms. In Mediterranean climates, it flowers through most of the spring and summer.

However, the real beauty of the plant is in its finely cut leaves, giving it a feathery, delicate texture. The foliage “architecture” is so intricate that while perhaps not being a spectacular feature, is in my opinion one of the most subtle effects available to the gardener. I regularly remove flowers, even when not all are spent, in order to encourage leaf growth, thereby keeping the plant’s habit dense and compact.

Chrysanthemum frutescens can be used as an “anchor” plant in a flowerbed, meaning that it provides pockets of stability in an otherwise rapidly changing part of the garden. Annuals need to be pulled up and replaced, and many perennials have to be cut down after flowering, or divided and replanted. Plants that look good throughout the year “hold” the flowerbed during the inevitable in-between periods, when the border is not at its best.

The wonder of the plant’s foliage is best expressed when it grows in a niche, such as by a wall, and snuggling up to a rock or boulder. It can also be added, as a flowering sub-shrub, to a group of low growing shrubs of medium to fine texture, such as Pittosporum “Wheeler’s Dwarf”, Green Island Ficus, Melaleuca “Green Dome”, and Raphiolepis. Marguerite can also serve as transition plant, linking the frothy foliage texture of ornamental grasses, with shrubs and trees that have a medium, less fine texture. With this purpose in mind, it is excellent bordering a lawn.

Some other perennial Chrysanthemums can be planted instead of this species, or included in a group with it. Examples include C. gracile, especially the variety “Chelsea Girl”, and C. pacificum. They are quite hardy to drought, easy to grow, but require well-drained soil. Periodic adding of compost or worm castings should see to all their feeding needs, while improving the soil at the same time. Chrysanthemums are short-lived perennials and need replacing every 2-3 years or so.

Tree Planting – Do Not Plant The Right Tree In The Wrong Place

Planting a tree, especially in a private home, has far-reaching consequences for the future success of the garden, and even for the welfare of the family and neighbors. Nothing compares to a tree in its size and sheer power, and therefore its impact on the immediate environment. Alternatively, no other garden element has the capacity to ruin the family’s quality of life.

In many cases, the gardener or homeowner has simply chosen the wrong tree type for a certain location. But let’s assume that after considerable consideration, the optimal choice has been made. The plant to be is suitable for the site’s climate, soil, and aspect. It neither possess aggressive roots, does not litter too badly, nor multiply and spread as an invasive pest. In design terms, of all possible tree types, the chosen species is a perfect fit.

Yet despite all this, the tree in years to come proves to be more of a nuisance to the family than this wonderful being that moves and inspires, provides shade, fragrance, movement, and sound, is a home to birds and other creatures, and is the favorite spot for the children and their friends.

The culprit is a common but easily avoided mistake. The error is simply to plant the tree too close to the house. In years to come, the dark and dankness can induce a sense of claustrophobia and even depression, the foliage can reduce the flow of air in the house, and children cannot get off to sleep, being frightened by the sound of branches scratching on the exterior walls! I have seen enough of these and similar reactions to realize the responsibility placed on the shoulders of the gardener when planting a tree in a private home. I have also witnessed, too many times, the look of relief on the face of a resident, when an offending specimen has been cut down.

So at what distance from the house is it safe to plant, remembering that we are not talking about trees with aggressive roots, which should be kept at a distance of at least 20 meters. (60ft) Here are some guidelines.

*If a tree’s canopy spreads above the roof of the house, branches below the roof level should be pruned off. This process requires careful attention over the years.

*A small tree whose height does not exceed that of the house should be planted at a distance to the house that is not less than its height. For example, if both the house and the mature height of the tree are 6 meters, (18ft) then the tree should be planted at least 6 meters from the house.

*Thin, pencil-shaped trees like Cypress, which sometimes function as a vertical accent by the wall of a house, should not be planted next to windows, particularly bedrooms.

Weed Control in the Garden – A Surprising Alternative to Using a Weed Killer

Different weed control methods are needed for varying situations. Annual weeds growing in a small flowerbed for example, can simply be pulled up. While sometimes, prevention is better than cure, as in the case of spreading organic mulch on the soil to prevent the germination of weed seeds.

Occasionally, such as when replacing a perennial lawn with ground cover plants, applying a systemic herbicide such as Roundup, may be necessary, albeit reluctantly so. There is one particular situation though, where allowing the weeds to grow under controlled conditions is actually preferable to eliminating them altogether by use of a weed killer.

This can apply to unplanted areas of the garden, which for one reason or another have yet to enter cultivation. It could range from a small space to be turned into a herb garden, a large area designated as a collection of fruit trees, or a complete garden plot. In cases when the area is not to be planted now but in the future, it is best to control the weeds by mowing them now and again.

Periodic mowing, either with a lawn mower or a mechanical strimmer, (weed whacker) prevents the weeds from flowering and setting seed, thereby keeping their spread under control. What is to be gained however by this instead of getting rid of them entirely? Where is the benefit in permitting them to grow, albeit under controlled conditions?

The question could also be asked as follows: “What is wrong in keeping the area clean of weeds altogether?” After all, there is no shortage of means, to achieve that purpose. Periodically spraying with an appropriate herbicide, for instance, will do the job efficiently and cheaply. The answer lies in the fact that the future health and fertility of the soil depends largely on it being protected from erosion on the one hand, and on the percentage of organic matter that it contains, on the other.

A soil that is “clean” of weeds is an exposed soil, meaning that it is subject to wind and rain erosion. One of the most important roles of plants, whether they be weeds or otherwise, is to hold the soil, preventing its top layer, which is its most fertile, from being washed or blown away by rain and wind. That is why steep gradients on public highway, landscape projects, are planted up as early as possible.

Secondly, the build up of organic matter caused by the life and death of weeds, improves the soil’s ecology, by improving its physical structure and enriching its fauna and flora. This has enormous implications for future pest and disease control, the fertility of the soil, and therefore the future health and vitality of the garden plants.

Mowing the weeds may be more laborious than spraying with a weed killer, but the benefits far outdo the time spent and inconvenience that may be endured. Controlling weeds as opposed to annihilating them, (where appropriate) is an example of adopting an holistic approach to gardening that should pay handsome dividends in the long-term.

Why A Garden Mulch Is Better Than A Pre-Emergent Weed Killer For Preventing Winter Weeds

As the winter in Mediterranean climates is also the rainy season, weeds can germinate and cover wider areas so rampantly, that the gardener is usually interested in preventing weeds or at least keeping them down before they spread, develop, and really start to cause problems.

In large-scale situations, the professional landscaper may resort to using pre-emergent herbicides, which kill the weeds shortly after they have sprouted. Some products are available for application in the private garden, and many home gardeners are attracted by the thought of their garden being weed-free for the duration of the winter.

There are a number of excellent reasons however, why the temptation should be resisted, especially considering that an alternative in the form of organic mulch, does exist, at least for the small scale of the private garden. Before dealing with the benefits of organic mulch, let’s look at the drawbacks of applying pre-emergent weed killers.

*Pre-emergent herbicides possess residual properties, meaning that their poisonous ingredients are active in the topsoil for a certain period of time. The correct dosages per square meter or yard have to be strictly adhered to, in order to avoid damage to neighboring plants, and to the health of the soil itself. This entails careful calibration of the sprayer, something that is easier to do in large open spaces, but far more difficult in small spaces.

*Most products are in any case, entirely unsuited to private gardens, as they cannot be applied near herbaceous plants. The few that are suitable are usually available in granular form as well as liquid solutions to be sprayed. It is not easy from my experience to spread accurately the granules according to the weight per area ratio specified by the manufacturer.

*Even when applied completely properly, the herbicides will adversely affect the soil’s fauna and flora, killing or driving out a wide range of organisms that inhabit the soil and contribute to its ecological balance. This has far-reaching consequences for pest and disease control, and for the desired crumbly structure of the soil. Furthermore, pesticides in general, are a serious source of river and lake pollution.

The best alternative for weed prevention is to spread some form of organic mulch, such as decorative wood chippings, on the ground and between the plants. While a mulch layer is generally ineffective against perennial weeds, by preventing germination, it is probably the best measure against annual weeds. Experience shows that the anti-germination properties of organic mulch are far superior to those of inorganic materials such as pebbles or stones. In addition, as opposed to herbicides, it contributes massively to the positive state of the soil; the medium in which the plants grow. These can be summarized as follows.

*Organic mulch acts as an insulating layer for the topsoil, regulating the temperature at this crucial level. In the mild winters common to Mediterranean climates this may be less significant, but it is tremendously important in reducing the topsoil temperature during the summer, where highs of 50c are not uncommon. Many physiological processes, such as water and mineral uptake, are severely retarded at these topsoil temperatures.

*Organic mulch slowly breaks down to add rich humus to the soil, thereby improving the soil’s crumbly structure (and thus its aeration), and expanding the volume and range of the soil’s fauna and flora. In this regard, it also provides raw material for essential soil organisms, such as earthworms, and so can be seen not only as a weed prevention measure, but in direct distinction to pre-emergent weed killers, as a soil and environment enhancing measure as well.

Why Laying Turf In The Autumn Can Lead To Serious Lawn Problems Later

While laying turf during the autumn is unthinkable in cold winter regions, in the mild winters typical of Mediterranean type climates, it is both possible and common. This does not necessarily mean it is a good idea. Although in most cases, the turf should survive the winter and regenerate in the spring, for the reasons I shall outline, it often proves to be a thoroughly bad move.

Firstly, the likelihood is that the grass will not manage to root properly by the onset of winter, and will just “sit” on the ground, inert, straw-colored, without any aesthetic value whatsoever. It will also be functionless, as it is virtually impossible to use a rootless lawn for such purposes as playing, sitting, and entertaining.

Secondly, the grass is liable to be smothered by winter annual weeds, which while not absent from established lawns, have an almost free reign to germinate, sprout, and grow in the week, rootless lawn. To make matters worse, it is usually impossible to mow the weeds, as one would normally do with a regular lawn. This infestation of winter weeds makes it difficult for the grass to take advantage of the onset of warmer weather in the spring, retarding its recovery and capacity to send out roots into the soil.

Neither does the weed problem end with the onset of spring and the withering of the annuals, because now, the development of the lawn is further retarded by both the summer, annual weeds and the perennial ones. In areas that receive light frosts, the grass may not root satisfactorily until the early summer, which means that only then is it possible to start dealing with the weed infestations.

By far the most serious drawback however, concerns the use of water, a chronic problem in Mediterranean, and other dry climate regions. While with established lawns, the sprinklers can be turned off for the winter, the turf laid in the autumn, needs to be irrigated during the dry periods common in Mediterranean winters - an unacceptable waste at a time of increasing water shortages and drought.

The alternative to laying turf in the autumn is to sow seeds of a winter grass variety, and to wait until the spring or early summer before putting down the permanent lawn. Sowing a temporary lawn has its disadvantages of course – it can take some 6-8 weeks before reasonable cover is attained - but at least, most of the problems just described are bypassed.

Lawn Treatment In the Autumn – The Right Time For Feeding And Dethatching

As winter approaches, many home gardeners in Mediterranean and similar climates tend to assume that the chores and tasks associated with lawn care are over for the year, and that they can forget about lawn treatment until the following spring. It is easy to see why, as most of the grass varieties used in such areas are dormant during the winter, while feeding and dethatching in the autumn seem to make little difference to the lawn’s appearance at this time.

However, feeding, if carried out properly, and dethatching where appropriate, help the lawn to recover quicker and grow better at the start of the following year’s growing season. What then is correct feeding; when is dethatching necessary, and how should it be done?

Lawn Food

Lawn fertilizer applied at the end of the summer or the beginning of autumn, can contain a relatively high percentage of nitrogen, in order to take advantage of the remaining 6 weeks or so of growing season, before the onset of winter. The closer to winter however, the presence of available nitrogen becomes increasingly irrelevant. In both cases though, it is best to apply a lawn fertilizer containing a high percentage of potassium, as this encourages satisfactory root development, whose benefits as mentioned, will be visible in the spring and help in creating a lawn that is hardier to pests, disease and drought.

The easiest method of feeding is to use a slow release fertilizer. In the fall, the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, expressed from left to right on the package as N-P-K, should be low in nitrogen and phosphorous, (N and P respectively) but high in Potassium (K). Alternatively, one can use an organic fertilizer, although bulky organic matter, such as compost, while essential for the rest of the garden, is less desirable for lawn care, as it is difficult to spread evenly, and is liable to exacerbate the thatch problem.

Dethatching Lawns

Removing the thatch that has built up through the summer is one of the most important tasks in lawn care and treatment, particularly with many of the species used in hot, dry, summer climates such as Bermuda, Zoysia, and Kikuyu varieties. While many home gardeners are aware that dethatching is essential in the spring, less know that it is desirable in the autumn too, as it significantly improves the rate at which rainwater percolates through the soil. It needs to be carried out far less aggressively than in the spring, and only on those species that recover from the treatment. Great care must be exercised with grasses like Buffalo, or St.Augustine, which can be irreparably damaged by over-zealous dethatching.

Over Seeding Lawns

An excellent way of greening up a perennial lawn that becomes dormant in the winter is to over seed with a variety that grows well in the winter, only to fade away through the summer. For this purpose, dethatching the lawn prior to spreading the seeds, greatly aids in increasing the germination rate, which helps the lawn look a lot fuller and greener through the winter.