Growing Roses in a Mediterranean Climate – Winter is the Season for Transplanting Rose Bushes
In Mediterranean and mild winter climates generally, winter, being the dormant season, is the right time for planting bare-root roses. As transplanted roses also end up with exposed roots, it follows that the winter is also the only season for transplanting existing rose bushes. Transplanting a large rose shrub seems at first sight to be a daunting task, but this is not so if the correct procedures are carried out. These are as follows.
The Planting Hole
The planting hole should be prepared in advance so that the bush can be planted in the ground immediately after removal from the ground. As with planting roses in general, the soil should be mixed with well-rotted compost, and adequate drainage is essential. It should be wide and deep enough to take a root system that is larger than that of a new plant, so the diameter of the hole could be as large as 1 meter, and the depth at least 50 cm.
Pruning
The rose bush to be transplanted ought to be pruned hard, so that a group of 3-7 main branches, about 20-40cm in length is all that remain. The shrub should now resemble a bare-root rose that you see in the garden centers. Ideally, the branches are evenly spaced one from each other, and thereby form a complete circle.
Removing the Rose Bush
While it is usually impractical to remove a specimen with its entire root system intact, the aim is to preserve as much as possible, while causing minimal damage to the roots. Remember that wounds to the roots are a source of future fungal and bacterial infection, and of irritating suckering branches. Digging should begin therefore at least 1 meter (3 ft) from the center of the bush, and even more with especially large shrubs.
As the earth is carefully dug away, it will be necessary to cut off some root trunks in order to extricate the plant from the ground. Make sure the pruning cuts are as clean as possible. After removing the plant trim back further the long roots, and remove any damaged or cankerous tissue. It is worthwhile painting the wounds with an anti-fungal cream suitable for woody plants.
Planting
The rose bush can now be planted as one would a normal bare-root specimen, the principle aim being to maximize the contact between the soil particles and the root tissue. Build a mound of soil and place the root branches on it, all the while gently firming soil underneath, around and on top of the roots. Make sure the plant is not sunken too deep into the soil, as this will cause rot, but not too high as well, as the plant will be unstable in windy conditions. Make a basin around the plant, and water very gently to settle the soil particles on the roots. It is best to spread an organic mulch around the plant, to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
And Remember!
Roses develop poorly in soil where other roses have previously grown. Therefore, there is little point in transplanting your rose bushes in such locations. Instead, look for some fresh part of the garden to start a new rose garden.
The Planting Hole
The planting hole should be prepared in advance so that the bush can be planted in the ground immediately after removal from the ground. As with planting roses in general, the soil should be mixed with well-rotted compost, and adequate drainage is essential. It should be wide and deep enough to take a root system that is larger than that of a new plant, so the diameter of the hole could be as large as 1 meter, and the depth at least 50 cm.
Pruning
The rose bush to be transplanted ought to be pruned hard, so that a group of 3-7 main branches, about 20-40cm in length is all that remain. The shrub should now resemble a bare-root rose that you see in the garden centers. Ideally, the branches are evenly spaced one from each other, and thereby form a complete circle.
Removing the Rose Bush
While it is usually impractical to remove a specimen with its entire root system intact, the aim is to preserve as much as possible, while causing minimal damage to the roots. Remember that wounds to the roots are a source of future fungal and bacterial infection, and of irritating suckering branches. Digging should begin therefore at least 1 meter (3 ft) from the center of the bush, and even more with especially large shrubs.
As the earth is carefully dug away, it will be necessary to cut off some root trunks in order to extricate the plant from the ground. Make sure the pruning cuts are as clean as possible. After removing the plant trim back further the long roots, and remove any damaged or cankerous tissue. It is worthwhile painting the wounds with an anti-fungal cream suitable for woody plants.
Planting
The rose bush can now be planted as one would a normal bare-root specimen, the principle aim being to maximize the contact between the soil particles and the root tissue. Build a mound of soil and place the root branches on it, all the while gently firming soil underneath, around and on top of the roots. Make sure the plant is not sunken too deep into the soil, as this will cause rot, but not too high as well, as the plant will be unstable in windy conditions. Make a basin around the plant, and water very gently to settle the soil particles on the roots. It is best to spread an organic mulch around the plant, to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
And Remember!
Roses develop poorly in soil where other roses have previously grown. Therefore, there is little point in transplanting your rose bushes in such locations. Instead, look for some fresh part of the garden to start a new rose garden.
posted by Jonathan at 1:25 AM
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home