Plant Nutrition – Chemical Fertilizer and Compost Compared

Which form of plant nutrition is better in broad terms – chemical fertilizer or compost? Fertilizers, whether chemical or organic, supply to the plants the elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and iron that are essential to their growth and develop.

Compost is bulky organic matter, of either plant or animal origin, which has to break down to an inorganic or mineral state before the essential elements can be taken up by the plants’ roots. For this reason, manufactures of fertilizer products tend to dismiss compost as not being fertilizer at all. If the term “fertilizer” is defined as narrowly as they find convenient, then this may be true. It is blatantly false however, to imply that compost is not a source, albeit indirectly, of plant nutrients.

Why Chemical Fertilizer?

Applying chemical fertilizer is the most efficient, cost effective method of feeding plants. One only has to look at the farming industry, with its massive, annual consumption of fertilizers, to see that this is the case. It is, together with chemical pest control, the main reason behind the high prices in the supermarkets of organically grown produce, whose growers do not use chemical fertilizer.

If chemicals give farmers get better yields in the field, then logically, they should provide superior results in the garden as well. Indeed, in the first year or so after planting the garden, this often appears to happen; the trees and shrubs may grow quicker, while flowers are both more numerous and stronger in color.

To achieve similar performance with compost, one has to use massive quantities – about 30 liters per square meter when preparing the soil – a method that is clearly far more expensive and laborious. Yet more and more landscape professionals, not only organic gardeners, choose to use compost. Why is this case?

Soil Conditioner

The most significant benefit of compost is in its role as a soil conditioner, for in the long term, the health and vitality of the soil is infinitely more important than the short-term boost provided by chemical fertilizers. Compost, whether commercially prepared or homegrown, is the humus of a natural eco-system. For what works in nature, works in the garden too.

Organic matter in the soil is raw material for a vast variety of organisms, from microbes to the earthworm. A high humus percentage builds up the soil’s fauna and flora, which dramatically increases the aeration of the soil, reduces the level of pathogenic organisms, and actually improves plant nutrition, by improving the availability of trace elements such as magnesium and iron.

The advantages of humus as a soil conditioner are negated by the long-term application of chemical fertilizer. The population of earthworms is virtually eliminated while the reduced range of organisms generally, creates favorable conditions for pest and disease organisms to take root, unbalanced by the natural predators that are part of a healthy eco-system.

Fertilizers – The Real Reasons Against Using Chemical Fertilizer on Your Garden Plants

Increasing numbers of home gardeners are turning against chemical fertilizers as the main means of feeding their garden plants. This trend is strengthened by the vague idea that chemical fertilizers are synthetic products and therefore unnatural.

When it comes to growing edible plants, many people believe that they and their families are consuming unhealthy synthetic residues as opposed to “pure” fruit and vegetables that have been grown organically. There are some excellent reasons for not applying chemical fertilizers, but the above objections are largely mythical.

The real distinction however is not between “natural” and “artificial”, but between plant food that is mineral in form, (i.e. chemical fertilizer) and that which is organic (compost, worm castings e.t.c.). Moreover, plants absorb essential nutrients as mineral salts dissolved in the soil water, and so the elements present in organic matter have to break down to an inorganic, mineral state before being available to the plants.

What is Chemical Fertilizer

Chemical fertilizing is a method of directly supplying the elements such as Nitrogen and Potassium, which are essential to plant growth and development. Chemical fertilizing simply bypasses the process by which matter breaks down from an organic state to a mineral one. Providing that quantities are appropriate, there is nothing necessarily abnormal about the plants’ makeup.

Common fertilizers like Ammonium Sulphate, Potassium Chloride, or Potash, should not be confused with synthetic pesticides, which are indeed poisons whose residues are liable to be present in the edible plants that have been treated with them. Organically grown produce will of course be free of pesticide residues, this being the primary reason for preferring it from a health point of view. Yet there are perfectly valid reasons for objecting to the use of chemical fertilizers. These have far less to do with their direct effects on the plants, but rather in the indirect, cumulative consequences for the soil and the environment.

Negative Effects on the Soil

Consistent and perpetual application of chemical fertilizer degrades the physical structure of the soil, leading to a lack of oxygen in the plants’ root zone. A number of processes are responsible for this, such as increasing soil salinity, alkalinity, and sodium levels. All can be traced back to the long-term use of chemical fertilizers, and are especially dangerous in dry climates.

Feeding the plants indirectly, by means of organic matter on the other hand, enhances the chemical, physical, and biological health of the soil. Ultimately, the quality of the garden plants is only as good as the quality of the soil in which they grow.

Pollution

Chemical fertilizers, especially nitrogen and phosphorus ones are a serious form of pollution, as the excess leaches into lakes, rivers and the water table. Chemical reactions transform the nitrogen into nitrites and nitrates that are wreaking havoc with natural eco-systems. In this respect though, commercial composts based on manure, are also pollutants, albeit at a much reduced level. From an environmental angle therefore, it is better to use plant-based composts.

Sage – Successfully Growing Sages in Mediterranean and other Dry Climate Gardens

Sage or Salvia is a large genus containing over 900 species and numerous varieties. Species of Sage grow wild in a wide range of locations, from South Africa, the Mediterranean, West and Central Asia, and many parts of North America and Mexico. Most species however, a few exceptions notwithstanding, require similar growing conditions, and these by happy coincidence, are suitable for gardens in dry climates.

Drainage

The prerequisite for success is a soil that drains well. Sages do not tolerate waterlogged conditions as a rule. The aeration of heavy, clay soils is improved significantly by adding large quantities of compost and the spreading of an organic mulch around the plants. Moreover, this should take care of all the nutritional demands of the plants without resort to chemical fertilizers.

Irrigation

With some of the tropical and sub tropical species excepted, Sages are drought resistant plants, although they do need some irrigation through the hot summer months. In heavy soils particularly, they do better on occasional deep soakings to frequent but shallow watering. This makes them unsuitable to a flowerbed containing summer annuals like Petunia or Phlox, which need water very frequently, but ideal companions for low-growing shrubs, and water conserving perennials such as Chrysanthemum frutescens or ice plants.

Pruning

Sages can be lightly trimmed throughout the year to remove flower heads, or for light shaping. Severe pruning is not recommended other than at the beginning of the growing season, i.e. at the end of winter. As Sages do not usually rejuvenate from old wood, they should only be cut back to clearly discernable growing points. The shrubby species can contribute handsomely to the garden for years if they are so pruned, and not allowed to become too open and leggy in form.

Location

A sunny aspect is as necessary to successfully growing Salvia as is adequate drainage. In the shade, flowers are liable to be sparse, while the plant’s growth will be lank and leggy. For the most part they prefer less humidity to more, being susceptible to powdery Mildew fungi in moist conditions. It is important therefore to place them where air circulation is good, avoiding closed locations where possible.

Sage – Wisely Choosing Ornamental Sage Plants for a Mediterranean Climate Garden

Sage is most widely known as a herb plant, possessing many culinary and medicinal properties. In fact, these applies mainly to the Garden or Common sage, Salvia officinalis, whereas most species, while perhaps having fragrant leaves, are grown purely as garden ornamentals. As far as Mediterranean and other dry climates are concerned, many sages are tolerant of both drought and alkaline soils.

Different types of Sage perform a number of design roles, but features common to all the ornamental species and varieties include attractive foliage, showy flowers, and relatively low maintenance needs. Design wise, Sages can be divided into four main groups; long lasting perennials, short-lived perennials, small shrubs or semi woody sub-shrubs, and tropical species that act as annuals in Mediterranean and temperate climates.

Perennials

The great benefit of the long lasting perennial sages is that they form a stable element in a flowerbed or herbaceous border. It is virtually impossible to expect a flowerbed to look at its best all year, because annuals and short-lived perennials have to be replaced, clumps of bulbous plants dug up and divided, and many perennials cut down to the ground

Many Sages on the other hand, look presentable and “hold” the border even when out of bloom. Examples include Salvia Africana-lutea, S. leucantha, and S. “Indigo Spires” with their very prominent purple-blue flowers,

In natural style gardens in dry climates, the short-lived perennial, Clary Sage (Salvia sclarea) comes into its own. It self-sows to form a carpet of grey-green, woolly leaves, interspersed with lavender blue flowers in the spring. Cutting the leaf stalks before the seeds have ripened, will of course reduce the capacity of the plant to spread.

Sub-Shrubs and Low Bushes

Low growing foliage bushes are useful and often important elements in garden design. Groupings that include plants like Pittosporum “Wheelers Dwarf”, Coprosma, Green Island Ficus, and Raphiolepis indica, can become more interesting and lively when a shrubby sage is added. A fine example is Salvia microphylla, which as its name implies, has small leaves and a delicate texture. It flowers profusely with lovely red blooms. The plant seems to last for years, requiring a good prune every couple of years or so.

Sages used as Annuals

The Tropical Sage, S. coccinea, is a perennial from Mexico, but is usually grown as an annual in Mediterranean climates. It has interesting heart-shaped leaves and bright red flowers, which re-bloom after dead heading throughout the warm months of the year. There are numerous varieties available in nurseries of this species and indeed of many of the species previously mentioned.

With water shortages increasing in severity throughout the dry regions of the world, gardeners can be thankful for the varied design uses of many sages. Considering that many, although not all, can beautify the garden on a fraction of the water needed for most summer annuals and many perennials, Sage plants are definitely a vital tool for the gardener in a dry climate.

Herb Gardens – The Benefits of Growing Garden Sage in a Mediterranean Climate Garden

Garden Sage, or Salvia officinalis, to use its botanical name, is one of about 1,000 species of sage. Many are both fragrant and ornamental, and so of immense value as garden plants, but in addition, Garden Sage has culinary, medicinal, and other properties that aid neighboring plants to resist pests and disease.

In Mediterranean and other dry climates, it is doubly of value because of its hardiness to drought and its capacity to thrive in the alkaline soils common to most dry climates. Despite requiring some care and attention, it is easy to grow, just requiring a good prune in the spring and after flowering, to encourage a compact and dense habit.

Herbal, Culinary, and Medicinal Benefits

Different cultures have developed varied uses of sage leaves. In Europe and North America they are used to flavor meats, gravies and sources, while in the Middle East and the Mediterranean region, they find their way in a multitude of salads.

Try putting a couple of fresh leaves in a plate of sliced, hard, white cheese, a sliced tomato, a sprinkle of lemon juice and olive oil, and salt and pepper. Take out the leaves after about 20 minutes so that the sage does not make the salad too bitter.

Many medical claims have been made for Salvia officinalis. While some of these are far-reaching and possibly far-fetched, the consensus points to the antiseptic properties of the oils contained in the plant’s leaves. A simple way to benefit from these is to immerse sage leaves for about 10 minutes in a boiling pot of tea. Garden Sage leaves are of course an essential component in aromatherapy.

A Fine Ornamental Plant

Irrespective of its herbal qualities, Salvia officinalis, more than justifies its existence as a beautiful ornamental plant, whether in a herb garden or a flowerbed. Its foliage is attractive all the year round, while its blue, purple flowers make a worthy contribution to any border. It can be listed with those perennials that “hold” a flowerbed during the seasons when many of the flowering plants are passed their best and need to be cut-down or replaced.

Furthermore, one can plant together, a number of varieties of the species, in order to create variation on a theme; always a good ploy in garden design. In addition to the species itself, with its grey-green foliage, there are varieties with purple-colored leaves, variegated foliage, and the famous variety “Tricolor”, whose grayish leaves have an irregular cream border.

Garden Sage to the Aid of Neighboring Plants!

Salvia officinalis appears to repel many pest insects from its vicinity, while attracting bees to gather the nectar from its flowers. That may explain why a border containing Garden Sage is invariably free of pathogenic insects, the odd chewed leaf here or there, notwithstanding. Some people are put-off by the thought of attracting bees to their garden, but if unmolested, they are not threatening, and perform a vital role in pollinating flowering plants, and in the general sanitation of the garden.

Pruning Roses – Crucial Tips on Rose Pruning for Mediterranean Climate Gardeners

The mild winters common to Mediterranean climates means that pruning woody plants in general, and roses in particular, ought to be carried out differently than in cold, temperate climates. This includes both when and how to prune roses bushes.

The reasons for pruning are the same however, irrespective of the climate. These are principally, to induce better flowering in terms of both quantity and quality, and to remove old growth for the purpose of encouraging juvenile growth. The possibility of enjoying the beauty of a rose bush for years to come depends largely on this last point.

When to Prune Roses

In mild winter climates, it is important not to prune too early in the winter, because the combination of warm spells, together with the act of pruning, induces buds to sprout and grow, only for late frosts to wipe out the juvenile tissue. This is not only a source of fungal and bacterial infection, but also is liable to weaken the rose plant in general. As rule of thumb, prune about 6 weeks before the date when frosts are unlikely to occur.

How to Prune Roses

Unlike in cold climates, there is no need to prune the roses hard to the ground. This only wastes valuable energy. Instead, it is often sufficient to remove between a third and a half of the shrub’s height. Preferably, one should cut into young branches, at growing points (buds) that are facing outwards.

New growth does not always develop from old wood, so if all the bush’s main branches are old, it may be necessary to prune higher up the plant, on secondary branches. That is why new growth should be encouraged by clearing old branches at the bud union. (The woody swelling between the roots and the branches)

3 Points to Remember

*While most cultivated rose varieties flower on the current year’s spring growth, some species roses, especially those that originate from continental climates such as in Central Asia, flower on growth that started in the previous spring. The consequence of pruning in the winter, whether at the beginning or at the end, is therefore, to remove all the flower buds. This is invariably the reason behind the common complaint – “my roses never seem to flower!” With such roses, pruning should be delayed until the plants have finished flowering.

*Climbing roses are liable to regress to their non-climbing origins, if branches are shortened too much. Pruning should be restricted to deadheading spent flowers, or entirely removing one or two old limbs.

*Rambling and other species roses are more valuable for their shape, texture, and form, than for their brief period of flowering. Shortening branches, which is suitable for cultivated varieties (hybrid teas, floribundas e.t.c.) spoils the bushes natural shape. In such cases, it is better to thin old wood, by cutting out branches completely.

Lawns in a Dry Climate – Artificial Grass and Real Grass Compared

In dry climates, water shortages are making the large suburban lawn a luxury less and less people can afford. A garden where 90% or so of its area is taken up by grass is becoming increasingly unsustainable in terms of water consumption and the resulting costs.

This has provided an opportunity for artificial grass manufacturers to offer an alternative. While many people including myself instinctively balk at the idea of a fake lawn, the water crisis is chronic enough to warrant a dispassionate comparison between synthetic grass and a real lawn. To do this we can examine a number of parameters.

Visual Appeal

Gone are the days when artificial grass has to look like a pathetic, worn carpet. Modern techniques have made for synthetic lawns, or more precisely, the premium products amongst them, that look excellent if excessive wear and tear is avoided. By comparison, if we are to face facts, it is probably no exaggeration to say that most lawns in private gardens look like cabbage patches anyway.

Feel and Touch

In the area of contact and feel too, synthetic products have improved immensely. Once they were hard, abrasive, and prickly, but now, many fake grasses on the market are soft and fairly nice to the touch. Again, it could be argued that the average home lawn, with its bare spots and patches of weeds, is hardly the ideal place for sitting and playing.

Cost

This is the big one! The cost of installing a decent synthetic lawn is about 5 times more expensive than laying turf, after including the costs of a professional irrigation system and soil preparation. But even here, the advocates of artificial grass can point, justly so, to the massive, on-going savings not only in water, but in mowing, feeding, and edging, not to speak of labor intensive practices such as de-thatching and aerating.

Nonetheless

The trouble is gardening is not about being dispassionate and objective. It is all about passion and emotion, for by the same list of sensible arguments, we could dispense with garden plants altogether and replace them with plastic flowers, bushes, and trees.

We do not garden to create perfection, but thrive in the challenge of overcoming all the difficulties, and in the process, creating something imperfect but beautiful. The real way to save water is to design the garden, or to re-design the existing one, using far less grass than is usual for the standard suburban plot.

It is quite possible to have a delightful and functional garden, where the lawn accounts for no more than 25% of the total area. For that 25% of lawn, we can then invest our energy and our checkbook, to make it the lush, green, living swathe we dream about. This is surely the better way forward for the dry climate garden.

Winter Garden Care – Planting in a Mediterranean Climate Winter

In cold winter climates where the ground is either frozen or at best rock-hard, planting is unthinkable. This is not the case in the mild winters typical of the Mediterranean climates in Southern Europe, the Middle East, Southern California, or South West Australia. Yet despite the soil being soft and pliable enough to allow for planting, many home gardeners believe, mistakenly, that it is best to delay the planting and wait for the onset of spring.

Admittedly, there are groups of plants that are not worth planting at this time. Laying a warm season, perennial lawn turf is undesirable in the autumn, let alone the winter. The tropical and sub-tropical plants, whether woody or herbaceous, which are marginal in their hardiness to cold, should also be left until the spring.

But these usually make up only a small proportion of the specimens in a Mediterranean climate garden. For the majority that are completely at ease with the relative chill of a Mediterranean winter, not only will they come to no harm by being planted in the winter, but they will actually benefit as a result.

The Main Advantage

The principle benefit of winter planting is that the plants have time to develop their root systems, so that when the optimal growing conditions arrive at the beginning of spring, they are best suited to take advantage of them. For as opposed to frozen winter regions, the temperatures in Mediterranean climates are moderate enough to allow many species to grow and develop, albeit at a reduced rate.

After 25 years of gardening in Israel, I’ve seen countless times, how herbaceous plants “take-off” in the spring, and how the woody species enjoy a head start over those planted at the “right time”, i.e. the spring.

The One Drawback

There is however one disadvantage of winter planting that is worth noting – weeds. The germination and growth of winter annual weeds can be prolific, especially in a year blessed with sufficient rain. The weeds have to be dealt with not only for aesthetic reasons, but also to protect the young plants from competition and even from being swamped. It is important therefore, to get rid of the existing weeds prior to planting, and to prevent further germination by spreading an organic mulch around the plants.

After Care

In the period between the planting and the spring/summer, when the plants will presumably be watered via the irrigation system, it may be necessary to hand water during the warm, dry spells that occur between the rains. It is an unacceptable waste of water in a dry climate to operate the whole system for the benefit of the new plants, while the established ones can wait for the next rainfall.

Furthermore, make sure you do not over water, as this can cause the roots to rot. Organic mulch plays an important role here, by not only suppressing competition from weeds, but also by preserving enough moisture in the topsoil, without the roots being drowned in excessive water.

Winter Pruning in a Mediterranean climate Garden – Why You Should Postpone Pruning Until the End of Winter

Most home gardeners in a Mediterranean climate associate winter with the annual pruning of trees and shrubs. They see some of the woody plants out of leaf and half remembering that plants should be pruned when in their dormancy, rush out with the saw, loppers and secateurs for a good session.

Timing is in fact essential when it comes to pruning, and therefore it is crucial to understand the connection between the weather conditions prevailing in a Mediterranean type winter, and the effect that pruning has on the health and vitality of the trees and bushes. When both these parameters are put together, it becomes clear that pruning should be put-off until the end of the winter.

Mediterranean climate winters are typically mild and cool with periodic rainstorms coincident with relatively cold snaps. In the hilly regions, or in valley bottoms, temperature lows might reach down to -6c, conditions, which while precluding many cold-sensitive species, are favorable to deciduous plants such as grape vines or roses. Often though, extended periods of warm, dry weather are common, with temperatures settling around 18-20c or more, only for cold snaps to return later in the winter.

It is this alternating between warm and cold that is liable to cause problems. The reason is that pruning induces dormant buds to sprout, and soft, tender, juvenile growth to develop, only for this growth to be hammered by a late frost. Damage to the young tissue is not only a source of bacterial and fungal infection, it also means that the plant has wasted valuable energy that it cannot easily recoup.

The Golden Rule of Thumb

On the other hand though, it is best to prune deciduous trees and bushes during their dormancy, because pruning in the spring, causes the plant tissue to “bleed” the sap that is rising at this time; resulting in serious loss in nutrients and energy potential.

Pruning can be thus be timed to 5-6 weeks before the last frost is likely to occur, which is the approximate time scale for new growth to sprout from a pruning cut. So if in your area, frosts do not occur after the middle of March, it is safe to prune around the beginning of February.

The mild winters in many Mediterranean type regions, allow the gardener to grow many tropical and sub-tropical species that are marginal in terms of their hardiness to cold. Some of these lose their foliage when the temperatures drop, but this does not mean that they react to cold conditions like naturally deciduous plants. (i.e. species that originate from cold-temperate climates) On the contrary, as they tend to be particularly susceptible to cold, they should be regarded, when it comes to pruning, as evergreens.

Evergreen Trees and Bushes

Evergreen species, conifers excluded, are generally far less cold hardy than deciduous ones, so they should not be touched at all during the winter. As the problem with rising sap does not apply to evergreens, it is safe to prune them either in the spring or in the summer.

Growing Roses in a Mediterranean Climate – Winter is the Season for Transplanting Rose Bushes

In Mediterranean and mild winter climates generally, winter, being the dormant season, is the right time for planting bare-root roses. As transplanted roses also end up with exposed roots, it follows that the winter is also the only season for transplanting existing rose bushes. Transplanting a large rose shrub seems at first sight to be a daunting task, but this is not so if the correct procedures are carried out. These are as follows.

The Planting Hole

The planting hole should be prepared in advance so that the bush can be planted in the ground immediately after removal from the ground. As with planting roses in general, the soil should be mixed with well-rotted compost, and adequate drainage is essential. It should be wide and deep enough to take a root system that is larger than that of a new plant, so the diameter of the hole could be as large as 1 meter, and the depth at least 50 cm.

Pruning

The rose bush to be transplanted ought to be pruned hard, so that a group of 3-7 main branches, about 20-40cm in length is all that remain. The shrub should now resemble a bare-root rose that you see in the garden centers. Ideally, the branches are evenly spaced one from each other, and thereby form a complete circle.

Removing the Rose Bush

While it is usually impractical to remove a specimen with its entire root system intact, the aim is to preserve as much as possible, while causing minimal damage to the roots. Remember that wounds to the roots are a source of future fungal and bacterial infection, and of irritating suckering branches. Digging should begin therefore at least 1 meter (3 ft) from the center of the bush, and even more with especially large shrubs.

As the earth is carefully dug away, it will be necessary to cut off some root trunks in order to extricate the plant from the ground. Make sure the pruning cuts are as clean as possible. After removing the plant trim back further the long roots, and remove any damaged or cankerous tissue. It is worthwhile painting the wounds with an anti-fungal cream suitable for woody plants.

Planting

The rose bush can now be planted as one would a normal bare-root specimen, the principle aim being to maximize the contact between the soil particles and the root tissue. Build a mound of soil and place the root branches on it, all the while gently firming soil underneath, around and on top of the roots. Make sure the plant is not sunken too deep into the soil, as this will cause rot, but not too high as well, as the plant will be unstable in windy conditions. Make a basin around the plant, and water very gently to settle the soil particles on the roots. It is best to spread an organic mulch around the plant, to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

And Remember!

Roses develop poorly in soil where other roses have previously grown. Therefore, there is little point in transplanting your rose bushes in such locations. Instead, look for some fresh part of the garden to start a new rose garden.

Planting Roses in a Mild Winter Climate: The Benefit of Planting Roses Bare-Root

Roses, if they are grown in containers, can be planted at any time in a mild winter climate. Planting in the winter however, allows the gardener to choose and plant bare-root specimens. The principle benefit being that one can see and examine the roots, something that cannot be done with pot plants. All that glitters is not gold, and a splendid looking plant may have a poor root system, which is liable to cause disappointment in the future.

Choosing the Right Plant

What should you be looking for then in a bare-root rose? A good specimen has at least three main roots that are more or less evenly spaced. They appear whole and healthy, without wounds or other blemishes. Beware of knotted or twisted roots, and especially of soft swellings. These could be tumors known as cankers that will result in a short-lived plant.

However, before choosing the actual specimens in the garden center, you should be clear as to the variety of rose you want. As a bare root plant will also be bare of leaves and flowers, there is no way of knowing what you are buying, unless you have done some prior homework. It is best to choose the desired variety by visiting gardens during the previous growing season. Make a note of the names of the plant, where possible, and then order the suitable varieties from a reliable garden center.

Planting

Planting can be carried out at any time in the winter, providing the plant is dormant. Do not wait until it has started to sprout its first leaves in the spring. Success depends primarily on adequate drainage, and on maximum contact between the soil’s particles and the roots. With this in mind, build a small mound of soil and place the rose’s roots carefully on it.

The planting hole has to be large enough to include comfortably the whole root system, while the soil should be well mixed with compost. It is crucial to plant the rose at the correct height, so that the bud union (the swelling that separates the roots from the branches) sits just above the ground. If it is too high, the plant will be unstable in windy conditions, but if sunken in the ground, susceptible to rot.

Replace the soil carefully, while gently firming it around the plant. In heavy soils, be careful not to cause compaction by excessive trampling. After all, the roots need a ready supply of oxygen as well as moisture and nutrients. After planting it is best to make a basin to hold the water that now has to be supplied. The pressure should be as low as possible so that it causes the soil to sink nicely, while avoiding undue soil disturbance. Remember that the purpose of the exercise is to maximize the contact between the soil and the roots.

After Care

Spread a layer of mulch around the new roses to a depth of about 10cm (4in) keeping it clear of the plants’ stems, as this can also cause rot to develop. The mulch retains moisture, while reducing weeds and regulating the topsoil temperature.

In the long spells between the winter rains that are common in Mediterranean and other dry climates, feel the soil an inch or two below the surface. If the soil is still moist, then the mulch has done its job, and there is no need to water. It is worth remembering that the plants at this stage are far more vulnerable to a lack of air in the root zone, than to a shortage of water.