Dry Climate Gardening

Plant Nutrition in Mediterranean Climate Gardens – The Importance of Feeding in the Spring

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Sat, 02 May 2009 11:09:00 +0000

Spring is the ideal time for feeding garden plants as this is the primary season for plant growth and development. No more is this the case than in Mediterranean and similarly dry climates, where the hot, arid summer causes many plants to enter into a mini-dormancy, where growth is minimal or ceases altogether. (as with Ice Plants for example)

Not so long ago, home gardeners were put-off by the apparent technical complexity of calculating exact amounts of readily soluble chemical fertilizer. Excess dosages of chemical fertilizer can indeed damage a plant, which is one good reason for not using them at all, particularly as there is a far better way of providing nutrient to the garden plants.

With the possible exception of feeding lawns, adding well-rotted organic compost provides most of the nutritional needs of the plants, albeit at a slower rate than chemical fertilizer. The real benefit of compost though, is less as a source of nutrient, but rather for the positive processes that it induces long term. These can be summarized as follows:

*The consistent adding of compost enhances the quality of the soil by improving the air/moisture balance in the root zone, by providing raw material for essential soil organisms such as earthworms, and for lowering the pH (in alkaline soils). Furthermore, it allows for balanced nutrition by making trace elements which are just as essential for plant growth as nitrogen and phosphorous, to become available to the plants’ roots.

*Compost or humus, indirectly strengthens the plant’s resistance to disease by creating an ecological balance in the soil between a multitude of organisms, ranging from bacteria, fungi and small animals. The greater the variety of life in a habitat, the better the chance of keeping in check the population levels of pathogenic organisms.

*While chemical fertilizer supplies the mineral requirements of the plants, both directly and cheaply, all the benefits to the soil, (the habitat in which the plants grow) are not only lost, but also put into reverse. So that while high percentages of humus improve the air/moisture balance by developing a healthy, crumbly, soil structure, persistent use of chemical fertilizer is liable over time to cause the soil structure to degenerate.

*The leaching of nitrates and phosphorous from readily soluble fertilizers, applied by farmers and gardeners, is a serious form of pollution in rivers and lakes. It must be admitted though, that commercially produced composts and earthworm casting products, are not blameless either in this field.

Feeding Lawns

*Most perennial lawns in dry climates are deep-rooting varieties like Bermuda or Zoisia grass, that tend to produce a heavy thatch of organic tissue that does not break down easily. This thatch inhibits both the infiltration of water into the soil, and the exchange of gasses between the root zone and the atmosphere. The spreading of compost actually exacerbates the thatch problem, and so chemical fertilizer, especially the slow-release kind, is preferable overall.

*Slow release fertilizer may be more expensive than readily soluble fertilizer such as Ammonium Sulphate, but it is much easier to calibrate and apply the correct dosages, small amounts of nutrient are steadily applied over a period of 3-6 months, and the leaching of pollutants, while not absent, is reduced.

Petrol Garden Tools – Simple Maintenance Tasks for the Home Gardener

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Tue, 28 Apr 2009 09:52:00 +0000

Petrol garden tools easily out perform their electric equivalents. In the long run they also make more economic sense, because although 2-3 times more expensive, if well maintained, a tool from a reputable manufacture could last the home gardener a lifetime.

Many people however are put off buying a gas-powered lawn mower or strimmer, because of what they perceive to be complicated and expensive maintenance procedures. This is though, is a myth and not a good reason for preferring an inferior, albeit cheaper electric power tool.

For a start, most maintenance tasks are a matter of turning the tools over once a year to a decent small-tools repair shop. The costs for regular maintenance should not be far in excess of $50 - $100 for each tool per year. This should fit into the average homeowner’s gardening budget. If the plugs, oil, and filters, e.t.c. are replaced on time, then for the average home gardener, there should hardly be any need for expensive repairs.

In between the annual trip to the repair shop, there are a number of simple steps anyone can take, to ensure that the machines work properly and efficiently. The most important thing is to clean air filters as regularly as possible.

*Most 4-stroke engine lawn mowers have a paper air filter that just needs a simple bang on the pavement to remove dirt and chaff. This takes about 1 minute, but if done after every mowing will ensure optimal filtration until it’s time to replace the filter. (Usually between 25-50 working hours)

*Likewise, the air filters for 2-stroke engine tools like strimmers, blowers, and hedge-trimmers, need regular cleaning. These are usually sponge filters, which can be rinsed in some petrol to dissolve the oils that have accumulated. The whole operation should take you about 2 minutes, although the filter has to be thoroughly dry before returning to the machine. Be sure to wear rubber gloves for protection as well.

*Another task that will take up between 1-2 minutes of your valuable time is inserting grease into the axis of strimmers and hedge trimmers. Read the instruction book carefully to locate the points that require greasing. Failure to do so will severely reduce the lifespan of the tool, which is a pity for the 2 minutes work required every hour or so of operating time.

”My Lawn Mower Won’t Start”

This is a common refrain at the beginning of spring amongst homeowners. The cause is invariably the failure to empty the petrol tank at the beginning of winter, or at the onset of any extended period when the mower will not be in use. If you cannot siphon the petrol out, simply run the machine until the gas has run-out. Alternatively, and preferably from a gas-emissions point of view, ask the repair shop to do it, as part of the annual maintenance program.

Perhaps there are a number of tasks, such as cleaning the air fins of a lawn mower with a jet of air, or sharpening blades, that the average home gardener will not wish to carry out. These, as mentioned, can be done by a professional. Nonetheless, it is wise to consult with the instruction manual, to make sure that nothing is missed.

Overall, the performance and longevity of petrol garden tools are so superior to those of electric ones, that the investment in time and money required over the year should not deter the home gardener from choosing a gas-powered garden tool.

Ground Cover Plants – The Benefits of Growing Junipers as Ground Cover, Landscaping Plants

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 03:45:00 +0000

There is a wide variety of Juniper forms grown as landscaping plants, ranging from trees, shrubs, high-growing and very low-growing ground cover plants. All are evergreen conifers, with needle-like foliage, and fleshy berrylike fruits instead of the wooden cones typical of coniferous plants.

With increasing water shortages in hot, dry climates, many gardeners are looking for alternatives to water guzzling lawns and flowers, and drought-tolerant ground cover plants are often thought of as a possible answer to the problem. As drought-resistant plants, the ground cover varieties of Juniper, although not without some drawbacks, are often excellent candidates for the job.

Junipers constitute a stable element in the garden. Most species, but not all, are relatively pest and disease-free, while established plants require virtually no care and maintenance through the year. If grown under suitable conditions, (more about that in a moment) they are probably amongst the easiest of plants to grow – ideal for the home gardener pressed for time.

The main disadvantages though, are that they are slow growing, while they need to be planted at a distance from each other that almost corresponds to the final width of the species or variety. This, in some cases can be quite considerable, as with the Bar Harbor Juniper (J.horizontalis “Bar Harbor”) which spreads to about 3 meters. (9-10 ft)

It is a mistake to over-plant Junipers or to fill in the gaps with ephemeral plants such as annuals or short-lived perennials. There is no alternative but to be patient and wait for the new plants to cover the ground, which can take a few years or so.

This leads to another drawback. Small specimens, planted at large distances not only look poor, but are easily taken over by weeds. On the other hand, the option of planting large specimens ends up being very expensive indeed, because Junipers, as slow growing plants, are not cheap.

The Importance of Mulch

To overcome the problems associated with planting relatively small specimens, it is essential to spread a good layer of organic mulch, such as decorative wood chippings, between the plants. This will not only improve the general appearance of the garden, but suppress weeds, and help to keep the root zone cool – a considerable benefit in hot summer climates. The improved growing conditions that result from an organic mulch, help the Junipers to survive the first difficult year, and cover the area more rapidly.

What Junipers Need

Junipers are tolerant of most soil types, including the alkaline soils typical of dry climate regions, but they must have decent drainage. In hot summer areas, they prefer deep, widely spaced watering to frequent, shallow irrigation. Remember that they are more susceptible to a lack of air in the root zone, than a lack of moisture.

Adding copious amounts of well-rotted compost into the soil prior to planting, together with a decent layer of organic mulch on top of the soil, will of course, improve the air/moisture balance in the root zone. Organic soil amendments should also take care of all the feeding requirements of the Junipers. The genus is sensitive to excessive nutrient levels, and so applying chemical fertilizers is undesirable.

Despite some of the drawbacks involved in the first few years, Juniper ground covers are attractive, drought-resistant, easy maintenance, and relatively pest-free landscaping plants. For dry climate gardeners therefore, they are particularly important.

Spring Garden Care – Pruning Landscape and Fruit Trees in Mediterranean Climate Home Gardens

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Sat, 11 Apr 2009 09:29:00 +0000

Deciduous trees should be pruned in their dormant season, which in Mediterranean and similar mild winter climates, means towards the end of winter. They should not be pruned in the spring as pruning causes the sap that is rising in the plant to “bleed” thereby depleting the tree of valuable energy and nutrients. If you have missed the boat, either wait till next year or carryout a very light pruning in the summer.

On the other hand, broadleaved evergreens and trees that come from tropical or sub-tropical climates are likely to be sensitive to cold and late frosts, and can incur severe damage if pruned too early in the year. They should not be touched until all possibility of frosts has passed.

In Mediterranean climates, spring is the best time for pruning because it anticipates the plants’ principle growing season. There is little point in allowing the tree to expend energy on new growth only to remove that growth a month or so later.

As opposed to shrubs and bushes, the aim of pruning landscape trees is to develop and maintain the tree’s natural shape. For this reason, it is a mistake to shorten branches as this detracts from the natural “flow” of the tree.

Instead, whole branches and limbs should be removed at their base, which is either where the branch is attached to the main trunk or a thicker branch. An exception is when a stem shoots forward into a long, thin branch that is out of proportion to the rest of the branches on the tree. It is best to clip such stems.

Pruning Fruit Trees

There is considerable confusion amongst home gardeners as to how best to prune their fruit trees. It is common to see the branches cut back as though the tree is a rose bush or some other flowering shrub. This is a technique borrowed from agriculture where the farmer is more interested in maximizing yields than in maintaining the natural look and beauty of the tree.

In my view, garden trees are ornamental, landscaping elements first, and providers of fruit second. In fact, by pruning fruit trees as one would landscape trees, (i.e. by removing a few limbs entirely) one gets the best of both worlds – a worthy, natural-looking specimen that produces enough fruit to supply the needs of the average family.

The Health of the Tree

Another reason for not pruning fruit trees according to the agricultural method concerns the long-term health of the tree. Persistent pruning that involves the removal of large volumes of material, depletes the energy potential of the tree, and renders it more susceptible to pests and disease. Remember that the tree, whether fruiting or otherwise, is the most precious element in the garden, and that pruning should be carried out as carefully, conservatively, and judiciously as possible.

Home Garden Care – How to Prune Your Garden Plants in the Spring

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Thu, 09 Apr 2009 10:22:00 +0000

Correct pruning in the spring is one of the most important factors in obtaining exciting results from your garden plants. As getting it right is largely about timing, it’s important to be on the ball at this time of year with your secateurs, loppers and cutters. Spring being the onset of the growing season, and in dry Mediterranean climates, the primary growing season, is the ideal time for pruning most, but not all plants.

Other than with trees, which are a separate category, the purpose of pruning is to induce more and superior flowering, denser and more compact growth, or both together. Cutting back herbaceous perennials for instance, prevents the plants from becoming bald and leggy, while pruning shrubs maintains bushy, green growth from the top to the ground.

What not to Prune

Remember that deciduous trees and shrubs should never be pruned in the spring, because of the sap rising in the branches at this time. Deciduous plants, i.e. broadleaved plants that originate from cold winter climates, should be pruned during their dormancy in the winter, although light pruning is possible in the summer.

It is also important to know that flowering shrubs whose blooms develop from buds that originated in the previous spring will not flower if pruned now. Lilacs and some species roses are typical examples, and the complaint– “my rose bush never seems to flower” – is a common refrain.

Similarly, fruit trees that belong to this category will never produce fruit if the flower buds are accidentally removed by early pruning. As a rule therefore, delay pruning trees and shrubs that flower on the previous year’s growth, until the end of the flowering, while being careful not to remove the spent flowers of fruit trees.

Pruning Perennials

A common mistake with perennial bedding plants is to wait until the last of the flowers have withered before deadheading and pruning back the plants. Many species in use in hot, dry climate gardens fall into a semi dormant state in the summer, while flowering is their final burst of activity towards the end of spring.

It is far better to give up on the last 25% or so of flowers and cut the plants back in order to induce vegetative growth and thus cause the plant to “cover itself” in foliage before the onset of summer. This applies particularly to Ice Plants, African Daisies, and many herbs of Mediterranean origin, such as Sage, Artemisia, Lavender, and Thyme.

Pruning Shrubs and Bushes

Without pruning, most shrubs ape their larger cousins, and develop a tree-like habit in growth and form. Sometimes, a bush grown as a small tree can be a valuable and creative addition to the garden. But in general, the role of shrubs is to create a screen or background of dense, compact foliage. To wait until the middle of the summer, is to cause the plant to waist the valuable energy it has expended by its spring growth.

While tree pruning involves the careful and judicious removal of a small number of limbs, shrubs can be shortened by about a half of their height, while old wood can be removed altogether. This applies to flowering shrubs like Hibiscus, Trumpet Vines, or Cestrum, as to purely landscaping bushes.

Home Garden Care in the Spring– Aphid Control Guidelines for the Home Gardener

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Sat, 04 Apr 2009 11:22:00 +0000

Spring is the season when a host of pest organisms come to life and feed massively on our garden plants. Foremost amongst them are species of tiny flying insects, known commonly as aphids, which while not generally fatal, cause a lot of visual damage to a wide range of plants.

The initial symptom of aphid activity is the secretion of sugary substances on new leaves, stems, and flowers. This can be extremely unpleasant with honeydew dripping on to paths, parked cars, and other plants. More dangerous to the plants’ health is the sooty mold, which is a complex of fungi that develops from the honeydew. Left unattended, the soot blocks out light from reaching the plants’ foliage, thereby depriving the plant of its vital energy source.

Before going into how to deal with aphids, remember that the purpose of pest control is not the complete eradication of the offending organisms, but rather the control of their population levels to manageable proportions. The indiscriminate use of insecticides only succeeds in clearing the way for pest populations to explode, as the insecticides reduce the population of natural predators. For this reason, quite apart from environmental considerations, it is best to avoid applying pesticides in the home garden altogether.

As intelligent pest management is about control and not elimination, non-poisonous, “environmentally friendly” insecticides, such as insecticidal soaps, can do a satisfactory job. Better still is to use the good old-fashioned garden hose at high pressure to wash off the aphids, with a little help from your thumb and forefinger. Will this be 100% effective? The answer of course is negative, which as previously mentioned, is a good thing in itself.

As aphids in the spring tend to attack young juicy growth, they are mostly found on the plants’ growing tips, making it easy to remove them by simply clipping the plants lightly. This works perfectly for foliage plants such as Artemisia or Ivy, but of course might prove very unsatisfactory for flowering ornamentals and fruit trees. It is also possible to let nature take its turn. In the Mediterranean region for instance, periodic hot, dry winds kill aphids just as effectively as insecticides.

With pests in general and aphids in particular, timing is all-important. Ultimately, we should be striving to turn the garden into a balanced eco-system, but this is easier said than done. In the meantime, aphids should be treated at the first signs of infection.

One sometimes sees a gardener spraying the honeydew or even the sooty mold that has grown on the plants’ foliage and stems – a case of shutting the barn door after the horse has bolted. Aphids produce a number of generations within a single spring, so there is every chance that the gardener is spraying the symptoms and not the cause itself.

Drip Irrigation – How Professionals Lay and Space the Drip Irrigation Pipes

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Sat, 21 Mar 2009 06:36:00 +0000

Drip irrigation is probably the single most effective tool for water conservation at the dry climate gardener’s disposal. Unfortunately, many, perhaps most home gardeners do not know how to space and lay down the pipes, in order that the system provides adequate moisture to the plants, while saving water as much possible.

A Common Mistake

The worst error is to snake a dripper line in a long loop around the plants. There are three reasons why this is wrong.

*Firstly, a long, looping line will reduce the operating pressure of the system, causing the drippers at the end of the line to emit far less water than those at the beginning. Remember that the aim of efficient watering is to provide water as evenly as possible.

*Uneven coverage makes it impossible to calculate the volume of water necessary for any given watering, and then to use just that amount. For as quantities are determined by area, (i.e. 3 liters per square meter a month for established, drought tolerant trees and shrubs) it follows that each part of the irrigated area should be receiving the same amount of water.

*A looping, snaking dripper line is unsightly. Lines that are straight, taught, and parallel to each other, catch the eye less, and give a more ordered look to the garden, until the plants cover them up.

Laying the Dripper Lines

The problems just outlined are avoided when the dripper lines are placed parallel to each other in short, straight lines, and where the drippers themselves are evenly spaced within any given line. But what is the optimal distance between the lines? The principle to follow is that they should be close enough to supply adequate coverage to the plants, but distant enough so that the amount of water emitted by the system per unit of time, is as low as possible. The purpose here is to allow the soil to absorb the water without run-off and wastage, or in technical terms, that the flow rate of the system be suited to the infiltration capacity of the soil. Here are some examples.

Shrubs and Bushes : For drought-tolerant bushes, choose a spacing of 1 meter (3ft) between the drippers and I meter between the lines. For less hardy landscape shrubs, 0.5*0.5 may be necessary. Add a circle of drippers around young trees at a distance of about 30cm (1ft) from the trunk.

Heavy Soil v Light Soil : Space the lines further apart in heavy, clay soil as opposed to light, sandy soil. For example, with flowers, a spacing of 30cm*30cm may be needed to supply moisture in light soil, whereas such a spacing in heavy soil will cause puddles to form very quickly. As water moves horizontally in clay soil, a spacing of 30*50 would be more appropriate.

Integrated Dripper Pipes : Although more expensive, it is always better to buy pipes that are pre-inserted with drippers, as opposed to adding individual drippers to a blind line. These come in varying spacings such as 30cm. 50, 70, or 100cm. Choose the appropriate spacing according to the principles outlined above, and make sure the flow rate (given for each dripper) is the lowest available.

Drip Irrigation – A Simple But Essential Maintenance Task Before the Onset of the Irrigation Season

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Sat, 14 Mar 2009 10:03:00 +0000

The life span of dripper lines is usually up to 10-15 years, as mineral deposits in the water eventually make the line inoperable. However, neglecting to wash out the system periodically will significantly reduce their operable life span. I've seen drippers block up after 3 or 4 years when this simple routine task is ignored.

There are two ways to do this – a simple way and a better one. Needless to say, professionals choose the latter, but let’s start with the simple, obvious method. Where the drip irrigation lines have been closed-off and tied-up at their ends, simply open each end of line and after turning on the tap, allow the water to flow out for about 5-10 minutes. As you should do this separately for every single line, the method is both laborious and wasteful of water.

It is preferable then to connect the end of the dripper pipes to a “collector” pipe, just as they are connected to a “feeder pipe” at the head of the line. This creates a closed drip system, which not only makes for better operating pressure, but allows for the periodic flushing to be carried out far for efficiently. This is what you need.

Connect a short, 3/4inch vertical pipe to the end of the collector pipe via an elbow connector. At the end of the 3/4in pipe connect another elbow and on to that a cheap, plastic tap, which has threads on both ends, so that a hose can be attached to it.

When you are ready to flush out the dripper lines, turn on the main tap so that the pipes start to emit water, and then turn on the plastic tap to which, as mentioned, a short piece of hose is connected. Flush the line for about 5-10 minutes, while using the water coming out of the hose for some useful purpose such as watering new plants.

The great advantage of doing things properly is that they end up getting done! We all tend to give up on something if it becomes tiresome, time-consuming, and messy. That is what usually happens when the drippers are not made into a closed system as described. The simple task of flushing the lines is neglected and forgotten, only for the dripper pipes to block up far sooner than necessary. So as winter draws to a close, do not forget to carry out this irrigation maintenance task that is so simple but essential for a dry climate and water conserving garden.

Landscape Garden Design – Using Santolina in a Mediterranean Style Garden

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Sat, 07 Mar 2009 09:55:00 +0000

Santolina as a Mediterranean native, is virtually a “must” plant for a dry, Mediterranean-style garden. It is a sub-shrub or woody perennial, growing to about 70cm (2ft) in height and a meter (1ft) in width. The best-known species is Santolina chamaecyparissus, or Lavender Cotton, with its grey colored, finely toothed foliage. Species with green leaves include S. pinnata and S. rosmarinifolia (virens).

Santolinas also flower profusely through the summer with their small, button, daisy-like blooms. The plants are best chosen however for their foliage and small-scale landscaping properties than for their flower color. They can serve as a stable element in a flowerbed; holding the border while perennials have been cut down, and annuals replaced, and are particularly effective as niche plants between rocks or flagstones.

Santolina, especially the grey-leaved Lavender Cotton, is not suitable for tropical gardens, looking singularly out of place with the lush, large leaves and course foliage texture typical of tropical plants. However, it combines excellently with the finely toothed foliage of Chrysanthemum, (some) Achillea, or Rosemary, and with flowering plants that have small blooms.

Its leaves are fragrant when bruised or clipped, and so it is a valuable addition to a herb garden, at least from a stylistic point of view. For most herbal plants, like Lavender, Sage, and Thyme, are also Mediterranean natives, and have similar leaf shapes and texture. A herb garden edged with a foot-high Santolina hedge, is perfect for more formal compositions.

Thought should also be given as to how the bedding plants associate with the trees and shrubs in the garden composition. In order to create as much unity as possible, the ground plane, i.e. the bedding plants, should link with the “walls and ceiling” of the garden, i.e. the trees and shrubs. Therefore, Santolina combines well with shrubs like Juniper, Melaleuca, and Grevillea, as well as with coniferous and Mediterranean trees such as Pomegranate and Olive.

Care and Maintenance

The most important thing is to clip them frequently in order to prevent them coming too woody and top – heavy. The clipping will reduce the number of flowers, but the plants will grow more densely and compactly as a result. Santolinas are not fussy plants, but they do need good drainage. Other than that, they perform perfectly well under a low watering regime, and so are ideal bedding plants for dry climate gardens.

Metrosideros (Pohutukawa) – An Excellent Landscape Tree or Shrub for a Mediterranean Climate Garden

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Tue, 03 Mar 2009 12:23:00 +0000

Metrosideros is the botanical name for a genus of landscape trees and large shrubs known commonly by its Maori name as Pohutukawa, or New Zealand Christmas Tree. As a large evergreen plant, it is ideal for screening purposes, but is also highly ornamental with its fine form, attractive, leathery foliage, and showy annual flowers.

Pohutukawa is relatively drought tolerant, thriving on as little as 200mm (8in) of additional irrigation in near desert climates that receive no more than 250mm of rainfall a year. In semi arid Mediterranean climates that receive some 400mm (16in) of annual rainfall, it can get by on less water, but will look better for the occasional deep soaking in the summer.

It is also tolerant of wind and sea spray, is largely unaffected by pests and disease, although it is unsuited to areas that have prolonged frosts and chill. Metrosideros grows well in most soils, including the alkaline ones typical of many dry climates, providing there is reasonable drainage. It is not a plant for the impatient however, as it grows slowly during the first few years. The patient gardener however will be rewarded with a beautiful and dependable landscape plant.

Combinations and Associations

With which trees and bushes does the New Zealand Christmas tree associate comfortably? Its oval-shaped foliage is medium in size and texture and so it fits in well with landscape bushes with similar foliage such as Pittosporum and Viburnum. It is especially good with another New Zealand native – Coprosma repens whose varieties that have variegated or copper leaves, add a gentle contrast to the light-green foliage of the Metrosideros.

Thought should also be given to how the plant combines with trees that are larger than it is, and with low-growing shrubs as well. With this in mind, it combines superbly with tall Eucalypts and with small bushes such as Green Island Ficus, Dwarf Pittosporum, (“Wheeler’s Dwarf”) and Raphiolepis.

Pohutukawa, as a member of the Myrtle plant family, (Myrtaceae) has flowers with the prominent stamens typical of that botanical family. Therefore, it links up with other Myrtaceae plants like Syzygium, Myrtle, Acmena, and Callistemon.

Metrosideros is so attractive and useful as a screening plant, and is so adaptable to the arid conditions prevailing in Mediterranean climates (excluding very cold areas) that dry climate gardeners can hardly afford to ignore it.

Pomegranate – How to Prune Landscaping and Fruiting Pomegranate Trees

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Sat, 28 Feb 2009 16:23:00 +0000

The Pomegranate (Punica granatum) is a deciduous tree or large shrub, which should be pruned at the end of its dormancy, i.e. towards the end of winter. In general, the method for pruning trees differs with ornamental plants as opposed to those grown mainly for their fruit. As Pomegranate is both a beautiful landscaping tree and one that has delicious and nutritious fruit, the dilemma facing the gardener concerns the type of pruning to adopt.

Pruning Trees for Fruit

Commercial fruit tree growers prune their trees by shortening main branches. The purpose is to induce new spring growth, from which develops more numerous flower buds and thus more fruit. The farmer is also interested in making the harvesting process cheaper and easier, which he does by periodically lowering the height of the tree.

The trouble is that this method is often imported into the ornamental garden, to which it is largely unsuited. The reason for this being that shortening branches disturbs the natural shape and flow of the tree, leaving behind an ugly stump, from which sprout a group of stems. It may be right for the farmer, interested primarily in maximizing yields, but not for the ornamental gardener, concerned with the appearance of the landscape plants.

Pruning Pomegranate Trees for Landscaping

In order to preserve the natural look of a tree, instead of shortening branches, whole limbs are removed to the trunk or larger limbs. This pruning method applies just as much to the Pomegranate, with its natural, arching, vase-like form. The habit of pruning branches short simply ruins the Pomegranate as a decorative specimen.

To reduce the tendency of the plant to become thick and messy, it is possible to thin out some growth in the center, especially those stems that crisscross into each other. In addition, stems that grow too close to the main branches can be removed. It is wise though to retain, some of the stems that sucker from the base, as the Pomegranate looks best as a multi-stemmed tree.

Getting the Best of Both Worlds

Is it possible then to have your beautiful ornamental tree and eat its fruit at the same time? The fact is that the wild species, (Punica granatum) attractive as it may be, does not produce fruit in many garden situations that is nearly as tasty as the cultivated varieties such as “Wonderful”, “Sweet”, or “King”. It’s really up to you. If you’re just interested in fruit yields, you can prune the plant as would a farmer.

This solution is best avoided in most home garden situations as to adopt it is to miss out on all the fabulous aesthetic qualities that the Pomegranate offers. For in addition to its attractive form, it has spectacular leaf color in the fall, (at least where the temperatures are low enough) beautiful, bright green foliage in the spring, and of course showy flowers and decorative fruit.

By pruning your Pomegranate as you would any other landscape tree, you may get less fruit, but the plant as whole will give you far more pleasure throughout the year.

Garden Power Tools – How to Use Petrol Strimmers Safely and Ergonomically

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Sat, 21 Feb 2009 12:17:00 +0000

Unless you have a very small backyard with a tiny lawn, a petrol strimmer is infinitely more efficient and even cost-effective in the end than an electric garden tool. For maintaining the edges on a large lawn, whacking the tough weeds around the yard, or for heavy-duty tasks in general, an electric strimmer simply does not have the power to do the job professionally. The trouble is though, that gas-powered strimmers are next to chain saws, probably the most dangerous implement in the gardener’s shed.

Protecting Yourself

*Strimmers endanger the user both immediately and in the long-term. The most obvious threat comes from small objects like pebbles or fragments of glass that can fly at immense velocity after being hit by the strimmer’s nylon cord. Never, under any circumstances, work without industrial standard goggles, and a face mask. Remember that you only have two eyes!

*As with all power tools, but especially with those like strimmers that operate with a two-stroke engine, always protect your ears with industrial standard equipment. It is totally inadequate to stuff cotton wool into your ears. Remember that damage to the eardrums following exposure to high decibel noise is both accumulative and irreversible.

*Always wear working boots and long trousers as these absorb the impact of objects flying at foot and shin height. It might not be as critical as a stone flying into your eye, but it can save you a nasty gash on the foot or leg.

Looking-out for Others

*The strimmer not only endangers the user but anyone else in the vicinity as well. Preferably you should keep people at a distance of at least 15 meters (45ft) while operating the machine. This means that not only should you be focused on your work, but also on what is going on around you. If you see people approaching, (children are often curious and want a closer look) stop, and do not continue until they are at a safe distance.

*Remember that a tiny pebble rocketing at knee-height for an adult, could be at eye-level for a small child. You do not want that on your conscience or be sued for massive damages.

Working Ergonomically

In addition to the immediate danger from missile-like objects, there is the question of long-term damage to various parts of the body, apart from the afore-mentioned ears. You should be aware that heavy use of a strimmer could lead to conditions like tendonitis.

*In order to reduce the possibility of this, it is best to wear heavy-duty gloves that act as “shock-absorbers” to the vibrations of the machine. Also, do not forget that the shoulder strap has not been added by the manufacturer for decoration, but serves the very necessary ergonomic purpose of preventing strain and stress on muscles, ligaments and tendons. Always adjust the strap to the right size, so that it supports the strimmer on the one hand, without causing the neck and shoulder muscles to stretch on the other.

*In this respect, electric strimmers are a lot worse than gas-powered ones, because the motor is usually placed at the front end of the machine, (the nylon cord end) and not at the back as with petrol garden strimmers. This makes the tool top-heavy, a fact that exacerbates the possibility of muscle strains and other forms of mechanical damage that can result in serious conditions like tendonitis.

Electric Garden Tools or Petrol Garden Tools: Which are Better for the Home Garden?

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Thu, 19 Feb 2009 03:28:00 +0000

Many if not most home gardeners buy electric garden tools as opposed to gas-powered tools. Considering that you will hardly, if ever find a landscape professional or garden contractor using an electric lawn mower or strimmer, you might want to ask yourself if you should be following your neighbors or the professionals on this matter.

Obviously, price is the reason behind peoples’ decision, because there is no professional justification for choosing electric power tools over petrol ones. Over the whole range of garden power tools – from lawn mowers, strimmers, and hedge trimmers – quality petrol tools completely out-perform their electric-powered equivalents.

Moreover, they easily out-live electric tools. If a gas-powered lawn mower can serve a gardening contractor for about 4 years, working day in and day out, then it should last a home gardener a lifetime, if maintained properly. How many years on the other hand, do you think you will get out of your electric lawn mower?

It is fears about expensive care and maintenance that deter people from buying a gas-powered tool, but these are largely unfounded. For the average suburban garden, maintenance amounts to sending the tools to a small tools repair shop once a year, for a routine change of oil, spark plugs and filters e.t.c.

So although the initial outlay for petrol garden tools is 2-3 times that of electric ones, in the long run, it makes more economic sense to buy gas-powered tools. Again, why not copy the professionals who are always looking at their bottom line.

There are some circumstances however, where the lower cost of an electric tool may justify its purchase. For example, if you use a hedge trimmer for 5-6 working hours a year, then an expensive petrol tool is probably unnecessary. Likewise, for special tasks like mechanical scarifying, which are carried out once a year or less, an electric tool can be hired from a garden center at low cost.

Which type of power tool is safer for the home gardener? In principle, gas tools by being more powerful can cause more damage. A gas-powered strimmer for instance, is a very dangerous tool in the wrong hands, although one should not overlook the possibility of electrocution with electric tools. In both cases, there is of course no substitute for following safety measures to the letter, and acting with responsibility and common sense.

Crape Myrtle – How to Prune this Very Special Landscape Tree

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Tue, 17 Feb 2009 11:27:00 +0000

Crape Myrtle, or Lagerstroemia indica, to use its botanical name, is in many ways one of the most special landscape trees suitable for a small garden. It has lovely, fresh-green foliage in the spring, in cold climates it sports dramatic fall color, and when out of leaf in the winter, creates an interesting silhouette with its reddish, peeling bark.

Primarily though, the Crape Myrtle is famous for its spectacular blooms that adorn the tree in the summer. If placed strategically, it can be unmatched as a focal point in the garden. It is this emphasis on the flowering properties of Crape Myrtle that leads many landscape professionals to prune it differently from virtually all other landscape trees.

With landscape trees, pruning amounts to the judicious and careful removal of whole limbs, when and where necessary. In principle, it is mistaken to shorten a tree’s branches, as this spoils the natural shape and “flow” of a tree, induces too many new branches to sprout from one point, (the pruning cut), and is liable to adversely affect the long-term health of a tree.

Shortening branches, or pollarding, is the chosen method for pruning flowering shrubs such as roses or lilacs. It is also the suggested way concerning the Crape Myrtle, for the expressed purpose of increasing and improving flower production. The reason for this is that more and superior blooms develop from the juvenile, spring growth that sprouts from a pruning cut.

As a deciduous plant, Crape Myrtle is best pruned in the winter - its dormant season. In Mediterranean and other mild winter climates, it is best to wait until the latter part of the season, while pruning in spring, while the sap is rising in a deciduous plant, can be a serious mistake.

The question arises however, as to whether it is necessarily wise to prune a Crape Myrtle as though it were a rose bush. For regular, persistent pruning, year after year, is likely to weaken the tree, slow-down its vitality, and make it more vulnerable to pests and disease. Therefore, to grow and prune a Crape Myrtle just for its flowers amounts to condemning it to an early demise.

In fact, as previously mentioned, the species has immense aesthetic value as a small-scale ornamental tree, irrespective of its floral display. A reasonable compromise is to alternate between pruning some branches in one year, and others in the years that follow. In addition, it’s a good idea to allow some of the stems that sucker from the base of the plant, to develop into trunks, which can later replace older, worn-out stems. In any case, the Crape Myrtle looks better as a multi-stemmed tree, than as a single-stemmed one.

To conclude, while pruning procedures should definitely aim to increase and improve the flowering of the Crape Myrtle, thought should be given to the health of the tree in the long-term. Considering that the Crape Myrtle is also fairly drought-tolerant, its importance for gardeners in a dry climate cannot be over-valued.

Growing Roses in a Dry Mediterranean Climate – Is it Compatible with Water Conserving Gardening?

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Thu, 12 Feb 2009 03:26:00 +0000

Roses, for the most part are very demanding in their water needs. With the exception of a number of species roses of Mediterranean and steppe-climate origin (i.e. Central Asia), the cultivated varieties known to the gardener consume, to perform at their best, 3-4 times more than drought resistant landscaping shrubs.

For instance, famous hybrid tea roses like Chrysler Imperial, Queen Elizabeth, or Peace, will require some 700mm (30in) of additional irrigation per year, in a dry Mediterranean climate that receives 250-450mm of winter rainfall. Compared to that, shrubs and bushes such as Viburnum, Pistachio, Melaleuca, or Grevillea can get by perfectly well on 100-200mm a year, and even less. The question is, how can roses be grown within the water limitations of a dry climate?

Before answering, let us remind ourselves just how uniquely special a great rose bush can be. What compares to a mass of fiery red floribundas by a whitewashed wall? Or the beauty and fragrance of so many of the fabulous Hybrid teas? There is a place for roses in most Mediterranean style gardens, if a way can be found to keep the water use down.

Defined Rose Beds

The first step, obviously, is to restrict the area that rose bushes cover, and to concentrate them in just one small part of the garden. Admittedly, this small part will need a lot of water, but you can offset their high consumption by planting drought resistant shrubs in the rest of the garden.

As well as some of the species just mentioned, you can add to the list plants like Junipers, Leocophyllum, Pittosporum, and Carissa, to name but a few. By happy coincidence, focusing the roses in one spot makes good design sense.

Irrigation – A Separate Line for the Rose Bed

Efficient water use demands that the roses need an irrigation regime separate from the other landscape bushes in the garden. It is not possible to save water if the water conserving plants are on the same line as the thirsty plants like roses.

Neither is it always wise to have the roses on the same line as other groups of high consumers such as topical plants nor annual flowers, because although the quantities required may be similar, the desired frequency between watering is often quite different. Despite being water guzzlers, roses are also sensitive to a lack of air in the root zone, so the high frequency regime appropriate for flowers could be very unsuitable for roses. Where possible then, give the roses their own, separate irrigation schedule.

Avoid Under Planting

Roses tend to struggle when they have to compete for water and nutrients with neighboring plants. Included in this category are prostrate plants grown to improve the visual effect of the ground plane. Under planting the roses inevitably leads to a need for adding more water, in order to compensate for the uptake by the low growing plants.

Instead of under planting then, it is far better from a water saving point of view, to spread a layer of organic mulch between the rose bushes. Aesthetically speaking, you can turn it to your advantage by using decorative wood chippings as a mulching medium. In addition, the roses will benefit from the cooler temperature of the topsoil and from less competition from weeds.

Pruning Trees and Shrubs – How Pruning Affects the Health of the Plants

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Wed, 11 Feb 2009 08:48:00 +0000

No matter how necessary pruning is for attaining the desired shape or growth habit of garden trees and shrubs, it is not, as is often assumed, “good” for the plant. In fact, pruning is about as good for the health of plants as surgery is for the health of people. Like surgery, it may be necessary, but there is invariably a price to be paid. There are two ways in which pruning can adversely affect the health of your landscape trees and shrubs.

Firstly, pruning cuts, which are effectively open wounds, are a source of both bacterial and fungal infection. The consequences of infection can take years to become apparent, but eventually, rot is liable to develop in the heart of a tree trunk or major branch. A tree where rot is well advanced is both numbered in years and dangerous.

The second area is more general but no less important for the long-term health of the plant. Pruning is liable to reduce the energy level of the garden trees and shrubs. This may seem counter-intuitive, especially when we see plants growing with renewed vigor following a good pruning. However, the consensus today amongst arboriculturists is that a positive energy level is the single most critical factor behind a plant’s health, vitality, and resistance to pests and disease, and that pruning is detrimental to the plants’ energy level.

This might not be too critical for shrubs, as the lifespan of most landscape bushes, as vibrant and beautiful garden elements, is usually not more than 20-30 years. In other words, by regular pruning, we effectively decide that a compact growth habit or more and better flowers are more important than longevity.

When it comes to trees however, it is a different story entirely, because the greatest value of a tree is in its age. Nothing in gardening compares to or can replace a mature tree. It is a magnificent living sculpture that to a great extent, affects how we feel. It follows then, that care has to be taken to avoid or at least reduce those actions that are liable to affect the long-term health of the tree, and those actions are primarily connected to pruning.

Correct Pruning Cuts – Some Guidelines

*The wound should be as small as possible in relation to the diameter of the trunk or branch to which the removed limb was attached. If the wound is going to be too large, then it is better to leave a stump about 50cm (1.5ft) in length, and periodically cut away new tissue that grows from the pruned branch. In time, the diameter of the limb should be smaller in relation to the girth of the trunk.

*Never make the final cut flush with trunk or branch, as bacteria and fungi are liable to penetrate the tree’s defenses. Studies prove that this occurs even when the wound has calloused over completely. Rot of course, eventually develops from the infection. Instead of flush cuts, prune at the outer border of the joint between the branch and the trunk. The rot that may develop should be contained within this area without penetrating the trunk’s bark.

*In order to prevent infection and reduce energy loss, never remove too much matter at one time. A third of the total volume of the tree is the absolute limit. It is far safer however to stop well before this quantity, and continue the pruning the following year.

Pruning Roses in a Dry Mediterranean Climate – The Purpose of Annual Pruning

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Thu, 05 Feb 2009 03:24:00 +0000

The second half of winter is the best time for pruning most rose shrub varieties in the mild winters typical of a Mediterranean climate. The purpose of pruning however, is not always clear to the home gardener. “Well it’s what roses need isn’t” – is a common remark. There are in fact two main reasons for giving your roses a good annual prune.

Better Flowers

Flower buds that develop on the new growth that sprouts from a pruning cut are likely to be more numerous and of better quality than from those flower buds that open on old wood. Moreover, the flowers should be more or less at eye level, as opposed to a bush that is not pruned. In the latter case, especially after the passing of a few years, the flowers tend to be at a height that reduces their visual effect and significance.

Removing Old Growth

The second reason for pruning is to pave the way for juvenile branches to develop by the removal of old or aging wood. Providing there are a number of new limbs growing, one or two old branches can be cut down as far as the bud union. This has the additional effect of exposing the bud union to direct sunlight, thereby inducing fresh buds to sprout and develop into young branches.

Similarly, removing week and thin branches directs the plant’s energy into the young branch tissue, and therefore, a few weeks later, into the flowers. Removing the tangle of thorns and branches, allows more light into the center of the bush, with the afore-mentioned effect of encouraging, young, healthy, and vibrant tissue.

Extending the Roses’ “Shelf Life”

Overall, pruning probably does not extend the life of the plant. In fact if anything, it may well result in reducing it. However, as gardeners, we are concerned with the quality of the plant’s existence, and the contribution it makes to the beauty of the garden. In this regard, the annual pruning of most rose varieties increases the years by which they perform satisfactorily.

Warning

Just be careful that your roses are not those species that flower on the growth that originated in the previous spring. If pruned in the winter they simply will not bloom later as the flower buds will have removed!

Bedding Plants – How to Integrate Bedding Plants into the Overall Garden Composition

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Tue, 03 Feb 2009 03:24:00 +0000

Inexperienced gardeners tend to choose bedding plants solely to make a splash of color. Little if any thought is given as to whether the species in question go with the rest of the plants in the garden. The question that the gardener should be asking is “does this bedding plant add to the composition, or does it detract from it?” This question is rarely raised.

The fact is though, that no matter how spectacular the blooms of any particular bedding plant may be, if the plant is wrong in relation to the garden as a whole, its novelty will quickly wear-off, and an undefined sense of dissatisfaction is liable to set in. This feeling, by being something you cannot put your finger on, is all the more damaging and frustrating.

But what is meant by “wrong”? The first thing to remember is that bedding plants, like any other type of plant, possess anatomical and morphological features that affect the eye in addition to their flowers. Plants have shape, form, and size. They have foliage too; are the leaves large and course in texture, or fine and delicate? Similarly, the flowers themselves have shape and form, size and texture.

In principle therefore, the more the bedding plant has in common with the plants that surround it, including the trees and shrubs, the greater the chance it will look right. For example, if a tree and a group of bushes have fine, feathery leaves, then the perennials or annuals in the flowerbed will be more in tune with them, by having a similar foliage texture. Here then are some guidelines for choosing herbaceous flowering plants according to their suitability to any given design.

*Classify bedding plants into stylistic groups, such as Mediterranean, exotic, alpine e.t.c. If the garden’s style is clearly of one type, then the bedding plants should be of the same category. For instance, flowering plants belonging to the daisy family, Asteraceae, (Compositae) such as Chrysanthemum, Felicia, Arctotis, and Asteriscus, look right in a Mediterranean composition, combining appropriately with such plants as Rosemary, Junipers, and Lavender.

On the other hand, “exotic” plants such as Impatiens, Iresine, Alternanthera, Fuchsia, and Ruellia, are more suitable close to palms, cycads, and ferns, while ice plants and other succulents associate clearly with sculptural species like Yucca or Dracaena.

*In general, flowering plants with large leaves and big flowers are suited to a tropical corner, usually appearing out of place with the thin leaves and sparse growth of dry climate plants. Similarly, glaucous-leaved perennials, such as the grey-blue foliage of perennial carnations (Dianthus) are better in a Mediterranean style garden, while dark-leaved plants often work best in a tropical scheme.

Plant Nutrition – Chemical Fertilizer and Compost Compared

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Sat, 31 Jan 2009 07:00:00 +0000

Which form of plant nutrition is better in broad terms – chemical fertilizer or compost? Fertilizers, whether chemical or organic, supply to the plants the elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and iron that are essential to their growth and develop.

Compost is bulky organic matter, of either plant or animal origin, which has to break down to an inorganic or mineral state before the essential elements can be taken up by the plants’ roots. For this reason, manufactures of fertilizer products tend to dismiss compost as not being fertilizer at all. If the term “fertilizer” is defined as narrowly as they find convenient, then this may be true. It is blatantly false however, to imply that compost is not a source, albeit indirectly, of plant nutrients.

Why Chemical Fertilizer?

Applying chemical fertilizer is the most efficient, cost effective method of feeding plants. One only has to look at the farming industry, with its massive, annual consumption of fertilizers, to see that this is the case. It is, together with chemical pest control, the main reason behind the high prices in the supermarkets of organically grown produce, whose growers do not use chemical fertilizer.

If chemicals give farmers get better yields in the field, then logically, they should provide superior results in the garden as well. Indeed, in the first year or so after planting the garden, this often appears to happen; the trees and shrubs may grow quicker, while flowers are both more numerous and stronger in color.

To achieve similar performance with compost, one has to use massive quantities – about 30 liters per square meter when preparing the soil – a method that is clearly far more expensive and laborious. Yet more and more landscape professionals, not only organic gardeners, choose to use compost. Why is this case?

Soil Conditioner

The most significant benefit of compost is in its role as a soil conditioner, for in the long term, the health and vitality of the soil is infinitely more important than the short-term boost provided by chemical fertilizers. Compost, whether commercially prepared or homegrown, is the humus of a natural eco-system. For what works in nature, works in the garden too.

Organic matter in the soil is raw material for a vast variety of organisms, from microbes to the earthworm. A high humus percentage builds up the soil’s fauna and flora, which dramatically increases the aeration of the soil, reduces the level of pathogenic organisms, and actually improves plant nutrition, by improving the availability of trace elements such as magnesium and iron.

The advantages of humus as a soil conditioner are negated by the long-term application of chemical fertilizer. The population of earthworms is virtually eliminated while the reduced range of organisms generally, creates favorable conditions for pest and disease organisms to take root, unbalanced by the natural predators that are part of a healthy eco-system.

Fertilizers – The Real Reasons Against Using Chemical Fertilizer on Your Garden Plants

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Fri, 30 Jan 2009 15:56:00 +0000

Increasing numbers of home gardeners are turning against chemical fertilizers as the main means of feeding their garden plants. This trend is strengthened by the vague idea that chemical fertilizers are synthetic products and therefore unnatural.

When it comes to growing edible plants, many people believe that they and their families are consuming unhealthy synthetic residues as opposed to “pure” fruit and vegetables that have been grown organically. There are some excellent reasons for not applying chemical fertilizers, but the above objections are largely mythical.

The real distinction however is not between “natural” and “artificial”, but between plant food that is mineral in form, (i.e. chemical fertilizer) and that which is organic (compost, worm castings e.t.c.). Moreover, plants absorb essential nutrients as mineral salts dissolved in the soil water, and so the elements present in organic matter have to break down to an inorganic, mineral state before being available to the plants.

What is Chemical Fertilizer

Chemical fertilizing is a method of directly supplying the elements such as Nitrogen and Potassium, which are essential to plant growth and development. Chemical fertilizing simply bypasses the process by which matter breaks down from an organic state to a mineral one. Providing that quantities are appropriate, there is nothing necessarily abnormal about the plants’ makeup.

Common fertilizers like Ammonium Sulphate, Potassium Chloride, or Potash, should not be confused with synthetic pesticides, which are indeed poisons whose residues are liable to be present in the edible plants that have been treated with them. Organically grown produce will of course be free of pesticide residues, this being the primary reason for preferring it from a health point of view. Yet there are perfectly valid reasons for objecting to the use of chemical fertilizers. These have far less to do with their direct effects on the plants, but rather in the indirect, cumulative consequences for the soil and the environment.

Negative Effects on the Soil

Consistent and perpetual application of chemical fertilizer degrades the physical structure of the soil, leading to a lack of oxygen in the plants’ root zone. A number of processes are responsible for this, such as increasing soil salinity, alkalinity, and sodium levels. All can be traced back to the long-term use of chemical fertilizers, and are especially dangerous in dry climates.

Feeding the plants indirectly, by means of organic matter on the other hand, enhances the chemical, physical, and biological health of the soil. Ultimately, the quality of the garden plants is only as good as the quality of the soil in which they grow.

Pollution

Chemical fertilizers, especially nitrogen and phosphorus ones are a serious form of pollution, as the excess leaches into lakes, rivers and the water table. Chemical reactions transform the nitrogen into nitrites and nitrates that are wreaking havoc with natural eco-systems. In this respect though, commercial composts based on manure, are also pollutants, albeit at a much reduced level. From an environmental angle therefore, it is better to use plant-based composts.

Sage – Successfully Growing Sages in Mediterranean and other Dry Climate Gardens

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Thu, 29 Jan 2009 03:38:00 +0000

Sage or Salvia is a large genus containing over 900 species and numerous varieties. Species of Sage grow wild in a wide range of locations, from South Africa, the Mediterranean, West and Central Asia, and many parts of North America and Mexico. Most species however, a few exceptions notwithstanding, require similar growing conditions, and these by happy coincidence, are suitable for gardens in dry climates.

Drainage

The prerequisite for success is a soil that drains well. Sages do not tolerate waterlogged conditions as a rule. The aeration of heavy, clay soils is improved significantly by adding large quantities of compost and the spreading of an organic mulch around the plants. Moreover, this should take care of all the nutritional demands of the plants without resort to chemical fertilizers.

Irrigation

With some of the tropical and sub tropical species excepted, Sages are drought resistant plants, although they do need some irrigation through the hot summer months. In heavy soils particularly, they do better on occasional deep soakings to frequent but shallow watering. This makes them unsuitable to a flowerbed containing summer annuals like Petunia or Phlox, which need water very frequently, but ideal companions for low-growing shrubs, and water conserving perennials such as Chrysanthemum frutescens or ice plants.

Pruning

Sages can be lightly trimmed throughout the year to remove flower heads, or for light shaping. Severe pruning is not recommended other than at the beginning of the growing season, i.e. at the end of winter. As Sages do not usually rejuvenate from old wood, they should only be cut back to clearly discernable growing points. The shrubby species can contribute handsomely to the garden for years if they are so pruned, and not allowed to become too open and leggy in form.

Location

A sunny aspect is as necessary to successfully growing Salvia as is adequate drainage. In the shade, flowers are liable to be sparse, while the plant’s growth will be lank and leggy. For the most part they prefer less humidity to more, being susceptible to powdery Mildew fungi in moist conditions. It is important therefore to place them where air circulation is good, avoiding closed locations where possible.

Sage – Wisely Choosing Ornamental Sage Plants for a Mediterranean Climate Garden

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Mon, 26 Jan 2009 18:03:00 +0000

Sage is most widely known as a herb plant, possessing many culinary and medicinal properties. In fact, these applies mainly to the Garden or Common sage, Salvia officinalis, whereas most species, while perhaps having fragrant leaves, are grown purely as garden ornamentals. As far as Mediterranean and other dry climates are concerned, many sages are tolerant of both drought and alkaline soils.

Different types of Sage perform a number of design roles, but features common to all the ornamental species and varieties include attractive foliage, showy flowers, and relatively low maintenance needs. Design wise, Sages can be divided into four main groups; long lasting perennials, short-lived perennials, small shrubs or semi woody sub-shrubs, and tropical species that act as annuals in Mediterranean and temperate climates.

Perennials

The great benefit of the long lasting perennial sages is that they form a stable element in a flowerbed or herbaceous border. It is virtually impossible to expect a flowerbed to look at its best all year, because annuals and short-lived perennials have to be replaced, clumps of bulbous plants dug up and divided, and many perennials cut down to the ground

Many Sages on the other hand, look presentable and “hold” the border even when out of bloom. Examples include Salvia Africana-lutea, S. leucantha, and S. “Indigo Spires” with their very prominent purple-blue flowers,

In natural style gardens in dry climates, the short-lived perennial, Clary Sage (Salvia sclarea) comes into its own. It self-sows to form a carpet of grey-green, woolly leaves, interspersed with lavender blue flowers in the spring. Cutting the leaf stalks before the seeds have ripened, will of course reduce the capacity of the plant to spread.

Sub-Shrubs and Low Bushes

Low growing foliage bushes are useful and often important elements in garden design. Groupings that include plants like Pittosporum “Wheelers Dwarf”, Coprosma, Green Island Ficus, and Raphiolepis indica, can become more interesting and lively when a shrubby sage is added. A fine example is Salvia microphylla, which as its name implies, has small leaves and a delicate texture. It flowers profusely with lovely red blooms. The plant seems to last for years, requiring a good prune every couple of years or so.

Sages used as Annuals

The Tropical Sage, S. coccinea, is a perennial from Mexico, but is usually grown as an annual in Mediterranean climates. It has interesting heart-shaped leaves and bright red flowers, which re-bloom after dead heading throughout the warm months of the year. There are numerous varieties available in nurseries of this species and indeed of many of the species previously mentioned.

With water shortages increasing in severity throughout the dry regions of the world, gardeners can be thankful for the varied design uses of many sages. Considering that many, although not all, can beautify the garden on a fraction of the water needed for most summer annuals and many perennials, Sage plants are definitely a vital tool for the gardener in a dry climate.

Herb Gardens – The Benefits of Growing Garden Sage in a Mediterranean Climate Garden

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Sat, 24 Jan 2009 11:37:00 +0000

Garden Sage, or Salvia officinalis, to use its botanical name, is one of about 1,000 species of sage. Many are both fragrant and ornamental, and so of immense value as garden plants, but in addition, Garden Sage has culinary, medicinal, and other properties that aid neighboring plants to resist pests and disease.

In Mediterranean and other dry climates, it is doubly of value because of its hardiness to drought and its capacity to thrive in the alkaline soils common to most dry climates. Despite requiring some care and attention, it is easy to grow, just requiring a good prune in the spring and after flowering, to encourage a compact and dense habit.

Herbal, Culinary, and Medicinal Benefits

Different cultures have developed varied uses of sage leaves. In Europe and North America they are used to flavor meats, gravies and sources, while in the Middle East and the Mediterranean region, they find their way in a multitude of salads.

Try putting a couple of fresh leaves in a plate of sliced, hard, white cheese, a sliced tomato, a sprinkle of lemon juice and olive oil, and salt and pepper. Take out the leaves after about 20 minutes so that the sage does not make the salad too bitter.

Many medical claims have been made for Salvia officinalis. While some of these are far-reaching and possibly far-fetched, the consensus points to the antiseptic properties of the oils contained in the plant’s leaves. A simple way to benefit from these is to immerse sage leaves for about 10 minutes in a boiling pot of tea. Garden Sage leaves are of course an essential component in aromatherapy.

A Fine Ornamental Plant

Irrespective of its herbal qualities, Salvia officinalis, more than justifies its existence as a beautiful ornamental plant, whether in a herb garden or a flowerbed. Its foliage is attractive all the year round, while its blue, purple flowers make a worthy contribution to any border. It can be listed with those perennials that “hold” a flowerbed during the seasons when many of the flowering plants are passed their best and need to be cut-down or replaced.

Furthermore, one can plant together, a number of varieties of the species, in order to create variation on a theme; always a good ploy in garden design. In addition to the species itself, with its grey-green foliage, there are varieties with purple-colored leaves, variegated foliage, and the famous variety “Tricolor”, whose grayish leaves have an irregular cream border.

Garden Sage to the Aid of Neighboring Plants!

Salvia officinalis appears to repel many pest insects from its vicinity, while attracting bees to gather the nectar from its flowers. That may explain why a border containing Garden Sage is invariably free of pathogenic insects, the odd chewed leaf here or there, notwithstanding. Some people are put-off by the thought of attracting bees to their garden, but if unmolested, they are not threatening, and perform a vital role in pollinating flowering plants, and in the general sanitation of the garden.

Pruning Roses – Crucial Tips on Rose Pruning for Mediterranean Climate Gardeners

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Wed, 21 Jan 2009 19:37:00 +0000

The mild winters common to Mediterranean climates means that pruning woody plants in general, and roses in particular, ought to be carried out differently than in cold, temperate climates. This includes both when and how to prune roses bushes.

The reasons for pruning are the same however, irrespective of the climate. These are principally, to induce better flowering in terms of both quantity and quality, and to remove old growth for the purpose of encouraging juvenile growth. The possibility of enjoying the beauty of a rose bush for years to come depends largely on this last point.

When to Prune Roses

In mild winter climates, it is important not to prune too early in the winter, because the combination of warm spells, together with the act of pruning, induces buds to sprout and grow, only for late frosts to wipe out the juvenile tissue. This is not only a source of fungal and bacterial infection, but also is liable to weaken the rose plant in general. As rule of thumb, prune about 6 weeks before the date when frosts are unlikely to occur.

How to Prune Roses

Unlike in cold climates, there is no need to prune the roses hard to the ground. This only wastes valuable energy. Instead, it is often sufficient to remove between a third and a half of the shrub’s height. Preferably, one should cut into young branches, at growing points (buds) that are facing outwards.

New growth does not always develop from old wood, so if all the bush’s main branches are old, it may be necessary to prune higher up the plant, on secondary branches. That is why new growth should be encouraged by clearing old branches at the bud union. (The woody swelling between the roots and the branches)

3 Points to Remember

*While most cultivated rose varieties flower on the current year’s spring growth, some species roses, especially those that originate from continental climates such as in Central Asia, flower on growth that started in the previous spring. The consequence of pruning in the winter, whether at the beginning or at the end, is therefore, to remove all the flower buds. This is invariably the reason behind the common complaint – “my roses never seem to flower!” With such roses, pruning should be delayed until the plants have finished flowering.

*Climbing roses are liable to regress to their non-climbing origins, if branches are shortened too much. Pruning should be restricted to deadheading spent flowers, or entirely removing one or two old limbs.

*Rambling and other species roses are more valuable for their shape, texture, and form, than for their brief period of flowering. Shortening branches, which is suitable for cultivated varieties (hybrid teas, floribundas e.t.c.) spoils the bushes natural shape. In such cases, it is better to thin old wood, by cutting out branches completely.

Lawns in a Dry Climate – Artificial Grass and Real Grass Compared

noreply@blogger.com (Jonathan) — Sun, 18 Jan 2009 07:18:00 +0000

In dry climates, water shortages are making the large suburban lawn a luxury less and less people can afford. A garden where 90% or so of its area is taken up by grass is becoming increasingly unsustainable in terms of water consumption and the resulting costs.

This has provided an opportunity for artificial grass manufacturers to offer an alternative. While many people including myself instinctively balk at the idea of a fake lawn, the water crisis is chronic enough to warrant a dispassionate comparison between synthetic grass and a real lawn. To do this we can examine a number of parameters.

Visual Appeal

Gone are the days when artificial grass has to look like a pathetic, worn carpet. Modern techniques have made for synthetic lawns, or more precisely, the premium products amongst them, that look excellent if excessive wear and tear is avoided. By comparison, if we are to face facts, it is probably no exaggeration to say that most lawns in private gardens look like cabbage patches anyway.

Feel and Touch

In the area of contact and feel too, synthetic products have improved immensely. Once they were hard, abrasive, and prickly, but now, many fake grasses on the market are soft and fairly nice to the touch. Again, it could be argued that the average home lawn, with its bare spots and patches of weeds, is hardly the ideal place for sitting and playing.

Cost

This is the big one! The cost of installing a decent synthetic lawn is about 5 times more expensive than laying turf, after including the costs of a professional irrigation system and soil preparation. But even here, the advocates of artificial grass can point, justly so, to the massive, on-going savings not only in water, but in mowing, feeding, and edging, not to speak of labor intensive practices such as de-thatching and aerating.

Nonetheless

The trouble is gardening is not about being dispassionate and objective. It is all about passion and emotion, for by the same list of sensible arguments, we could dispense with garden plants altogether and replace them with plastic flowers, bushes, and trees.

We do not garden to create perfection, but thrive in the challenge of overcoming all the difficulties, and in the process, creating something imperfect but beautiful. The real way to save water is to design the garden, or to re-design the existing one, using far less grass than is usual for the standard suburban plot.

It is quite possible to have a delightful and functional garden, where the lawn accounts for no more than 25% of the total area. For that 25% of lawn, we can then invest our energy and our checkbook, to make it the lush, green, living swathe we dream about. This is surely the better way forward for the dry climate garden.